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Routes in Tungsten Mine Shaft

Heart of Darkness S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Neuromuscular Toxin S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Peter Beal
Page Views: 1,270 total, 6/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Climb the steep roof/overhang just left of the mineshaft. Lots of bolts at the start due to shaky rock and a big ledge. The rock cleans up quickly for the lip crux. Very bouldery.

Protection

7 bolts.

Photos

Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
 
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
 
I have heard that the large spike at the start has detached and this route may be much harder now. Aug 4, 2008
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
 
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
 
I looked at that line. There might be an issue with rock quality. Jun 12, 2008
The line to the right of HOD looks cool, wish it were bolted.... Jun 12, 2008
Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
  5.13b
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
  5.13b
I too was unable to clip the 5th bolt, and took the big whip (from high on the lip) several times before finally redpointing the route. The fall is safe, although you do come somewaht close to hitting the ledge. Great route, solid V8/V9 crux. Kudos to Pete Beal. Jan 28, 2005
Ted Lanzano
Boulder, CO
Ted Lanzano   Boulder, CO
I am curious if anyone has beta for the fifth clip, which is the clip right above the roof and at the end of the crux.I can't find holds good enough to let go and clip with the right hand. The only thing I can think of is to skip the clip, but if you blow it high on the lip you risk hitting the ledge below. Any thoughts would be appreciated.Thanks in advance!

Dec 13, 2004
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
 
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
 
Just a thank you to whoever stole the carabiners I left on the anchor. 15 year old microlights, hmm...I hope they never get put to the test. Oct 17, 2001