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Routes in Beer Barrel Boulder

Beer Barrel Loop, The V9 7C
Beer Belly aka Beached Whale? V6 7A
Double Clutch TR V8-9 7B+
East Slab aka The Downclimb V0- 4-
No Name V7 7A+
Northeast Mantel V6 7A
Poling Pebble V5 6C
South Face V0 4
Southwest Prow V0 4
West Face Traverse V3-4 6A+
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Type: Boulder
FA: Ben Greenwood, 1998
Page Views: 1,543 total · 9/month
Shared By: Ted Lanzano on Sep 13, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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If you are looking for a new project at Flag, this might be your ticket. This rarely repeated problem involves climbing a complete loop around the Beer Barrel boulder. Start on the underclings on the south east side and traverse clockwise, finishing on a hard crux on the north east side. It's helpful to have someone block for you as you pass the crowds on the other problems.


A pad or two is fine.


- No Photos -
Jonathan Siegrist
his truck
Jonathan Siegrist   his truck
I can make out the entire traverse except for the ending, do you end by doing the V6 'North West Corner' problem or do you stay lower, or do you top out after finishing the West Face Traverse? Oct 27, 2005
Ted Lanzano
Boulder, CO
Ted Lanzano   Boulder, CO
After the west-side traverse, continue around the corner (tricky) and top out on the north-east side (listed as the NW corner on this site) of the boulder with several tenuous slopes and a heal. The loop is more like V8 or V9. Oct 29, 2005
I did this traverse as Ted describes it in 1998, around the time Chris brushed the dirt off those starting underclings. May have been FA? Dec 28, 2009
misha zavalov
Boulder, Co.
misha zavalov   Boulder, Co.
Are you kidding? This boulder has been climbed on since the mid '50s. Dec 29, 2009
Chip Phillips
Broomfield, CO
Chip Phillips   Broomfield, CO
Ted/Admins: the name of this problem is "The Beer Barrel Loop" FA: Ben Greenwood, 1998

Actually Misha, Ben is quite serious, although he is one of the nicest and most unassuming climbers I've ever come across. Although I have not yet added The Beer Barrel to my online bouldering guide to Flagstaff Mountain, Ben Greenwood is credited in my draft with the FA of The Beer Barrel Loop in 1998 among other things. Additional evidence for his FA of this problem is as follows:

1. Sit-starts were not in fashion in CO or anywhere else for that matter until Sherman's first Hueco guide came out in the early 1990s. By and large, people just didn't see the point of sitting on their asses and dirtburglaring pre-pads.
2. The sds for The Beer Barrel Loop was first done in 1998 when Chris Lesher cleaned up and added a sit-start to The Brooks Bulge. Ben Greenwood was there and began doing link-ups out of this sit-start almost immediately including a link-up into The Poling Pebble called Static Fingers and The Beer Barrel Loop.
3. The finish for The Beer Barrel Loop, Northeast Mantel V6, was cleaned by Scott Boldien and established by Ben Walburn in the mid-to-late 1990s.

I hope I've convinced you, Misha. If not, leave a respectful message and I will try to respond. Boulderers represent but a sliver of a small and tight climbing community. FA info and problem names are rarely perfect, but if someone comes forward and offers their opinion, we should all try to be more respectful about it, regardless how wrong we might think someone is (I'm guilty of this, too). I think our goal at mountainproject is a longterm one ... to try to archive all this stuff in perpetuity before our memories fade and give credit when possible where it is due.

FWIW, I have not had much time to work on the guide over the last year, but The Beer Barrel with topos will be one of the next areas to go up on the online guide here: flagstaffmountainbouldering… Dec 30, 2009
misha zavalov
Boulder, Co.
misha zavalov   Boulder, Co.
Sorry, Ben. Nice work, man. Props. Thanks for the history, Chip. Dec 30, 2009

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