|GPS:||39.604, -105.948 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||76,122 total · 399/month|
|Shared By:||Richard M. Wright on Jun 20, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionWith the blistering summer setting in, the search for a cool shady to spot to climb rises up in the agenda, and Keystone offers one good solution to the relentless heat in the Front Range. While Keystone is not a great "destination spot" overall, it does offer a reasonable range of sport climbs at 10,000 feet elevation and as cool as one is likely to find one hour from Denver. The crags at Keystone are South facing but get good shade for part of the day nonetheless. The rock is alpine granite, quite solid overall, and bolted sport climbs range from 5.9/5.10 to middle 5.12. Several years ago all of the old anchors and tree belays were replaced by double bolt lowering stations, however, some these are cold shuts and should be checked for wear. N.B.: if you top rope, do it through your own draws. All of the routes on the main crags can be done with a 60 meter rope, and while the bulk of the climbing consists of bolted sport routes, there are some cracks also available. The hump up the hill is not too strenuous and when combined with the scenic venue is well worth a day's visit. There are at least a couple of routes with enough chatacter that they should not be missed.
Getting ThereKeystone Crags lie just a couple of miles East of Keystone (the town) on the South flank of Porcupine Peak. The most expedient approach is to drive to Dillon and take 6th avenue East to Keystone. After the last shops in town, continue East - as though you were headed to A-Basin. A sharp right turn on to CO 5 will snake you beside the Keystone lodges. Stay on 5 for approximately 1.5 miles (per T G, 1.2 miles), and park in a dirt pullout on the left side of the road.
The crags will have been visible from the moment you pass the lodges, and the creek will be nearby and on the right. The key is to find the pullout on the left as you head East. If you come to the FR260 fork, then you have gone too far. There will be a short embankment at the pullout and room for six or eight cars.
Pick up a trail through the woods, on top of the embankment. This will take you up hill for 10 minutes or less to a short talus field, and the trail will continue through the woods for another 5 minutes after leaving the talus field. Along the way you will pass a large boulder with two bolted lines on it, and the main crag is just a bit ahead. Route numbering starts on the right and sweeps left along the crag.
Classic Climbing Routes at Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season