Elevation: 9,426 ft
GPS: 39.604, -105.948 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 200,782 total · 868/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 20, 2002
Admins: Joey Chicharrones, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description

With the blistering summer setting in, the search for a cool shady to spot to climb rises up in the agenda, and Keystone offers one good solution to the relentless heat in the Front Range. While Keystone is not a great "destination spot" overall, it does offer a reasonable range of sport climbs at 10,000 feet elevation and as cool as one is likely to find one hour from Denver. The crags at Keystone are South facing but get good shade for part of the day nonetheless. The rock is alpine granite, quite solid overall, and bolted sport climbs range from 5.9/5.10 to middle 5.12. 

Several years ago all of the old anchors and tree belays were replaced by double bolt lowering stations. More recently many anchors at the more popular crags have been replaced with mussy hooks. N.B.: if you top rope, do it through your own draws. All of the routes on the main crags can be done with a 60 meter rope, and while the bulk of the climbing consists of bolted sport routes, there are some cracks also available. The hump up the hill is not too strenuous and when combined with the scenic venue is well worth a day's visit. There are at least a couple of routes with enough character that they should not be missed.

Getting There

The majority of the Keystone Crags lie just a couple of miles East of Keystone (the town) on the South flank of Porcupine Peak. The most expedient approach is to drive to Dillon and take US Hwy 6 East to Keystone. After the last shops in town, continue East - as though you were headed to A-Basin. Before the road begins to go uphill towards A-Basin, make a right at the fork onto CO 5. Stay on CO 5 for approximately 1.5 miles; if you come to the FR260 fork, then you have gone too far. and park in a dirt pullout .

On the left side of the road right after the Keystone Powerline Lot, there will be a short embankment at the pullout and room for about a dozen cars. This pullout services Haus, Porcupine, Alpenglow, and the Hummingbird area.

About 1/4 mile past this pullout, there is a small shoulder on the right marked by a yellow "No Camping" sign as well as an old timey barrel. This services Zuma and Morning Glory. 

143 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V5 6C
 8
The Refrigerator
Boulder
V6 7A
 3
Circle Of Life Traverse
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 106
Feet Do Not Fail Me Now
Sport, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 47
Not So Hostile Krainzover
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 94
Lichen This
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Five Oh Shadow
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 36
Not Lichen This
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 3
Baby Bear Layback
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 65
Hostile Krainzover
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 38
Little Haus
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
UnBearably Yellow Spider
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 15
The Chockstone Arete
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 80
The Spine
Sport, TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 51
Crystal Ball
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 9
Macho Picasso
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Refrigerator Hummingbird Bou… > Oasis Boulder Area > Refrigerator Boulder
 8
V5 6C Boulder
Circle Of Life Traverse Hummingbird Bou… > Main Boulder, Humming…
 3
V6 7A Boulder
Feet Do Not Fail Me Now Haus Rock
 106
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Not So Hostile Krainzover Haus Rock
 47
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Lichen This Haus Rock
 94
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Five Oh Shadow Porcupine Rock
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Not Lichen This Haus Rock
 36
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Baby Bear Layback Morning Glory Wall
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Hostile Krainzover Haus Rock
 65
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Little Haus Haus Rock
 38
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
UnBearably Yellow Spider Morning Glory Wall
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Chockstone Arete Alpenglow Wall
 15
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Spine Haus Rock
 80
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
Crystal Ball Haus Rock
 51
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Macho Picasso Haus Rock
 9
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos