Elevation: 9,426 ft
GPS: 39.604, -105.948 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 147,657 total · 672/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 20, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description

With the blistering summer setting in, the search for a cool shady to spot to climb rises up in the agenda, and Keystone offers one good solution to the relentless heat in the Front Range. While Keystone is not a great "destination spot" overall, it does offer a reasonable range of sport climbs at 10,000 feet elevation and as cool as one is likely to find one hour from Denver. The crags at Keystone are South facing but get good shade for part of the day nonetheless. The rock is alpine granite, quite solid overall, and bolted sport climbs range from 5.9/5.10 to middle 5.12. Several years ago all of the old anchors and tree belays were replaced by double bolt lowering stations, however, some these are cold shuts and should be checked for wear. N.B.: if you top rope, do it through your own draws. All of the routes on the main crags can be done with a 60 meter rope, and while the bulk of the climbing consists of bolted sport routes, there are some cracks also available. The hump up the hill is not too strenuous and when combined with the scenic venue is well worth a day's visit. There are at least a couple of routes with enough chatacter that they should not be missed.

Getting There

Keystone Crags lie just a couple of miles East of Keystone (the town) on the South flank of Porcupine Peak. The most expedient approach is to drive to Dillon and take 6th avenue East to Keystone. After the last shops in town, continue East - as though you were headed to A-Basin. A sharp right turn on to CO 5 will snake you beside the Keystone lodges. Stay on 5 for approximately 1.5 miles (per T G, 1.2 miles), and park in a dirt pullout on the left side of the road.

The crags will have been visible from the moment you pass the lodges, and the creek will be nearby and on the right. The key is to find the pullout on the left as you head East. If you come to the FR260 fork, then you have gone too far. There will be a short embankment at the pullout and room for six or eight cars.

Pick up a trail through the woods, on top of the embankment. This will take you up hill for 10 minutes or less to a short talus field, and the trail will continue through the woods for another 5 minutes after leaving the talus field. Along the way you will pass a large boulder with two bolted lines on it, and the main crag is just a bit ahead. Route numbering starts on the right and sweeps left along the crag.

106 Total Climbs

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Location: Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V5 6C
 6
The Refrigerator
Boulder
V6 7A
 3
Circle Of Life Traverse
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 93
Feet Do Not Fail Me Now
Sport, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 38
Not So Hostile Krainzover
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 80
Lichen This
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Pull Up A Drill
Sport 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 30
Not Lichen This
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 58
Hostile Krainzover
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 32
Little Haus
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 13
The Chockstone Arete
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 73
The Spine
Sport, TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 44
Crystal Ball
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 7
Sky Pilot
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 3
The Ol' Ball and Chain
Trad, Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 8
Macho Picasso
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Refrigerator Hummingbird Bou… > Oasis Boulder Area > Refrigerator Boulder
 6
V5 6C Boulder
Circle Of Life Traverse Hummingbird Bou… > Main Boulder, Humming…
 3
V6 7A Boulder
Feet Do Not Fail Me Now Haus Rock
 93
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Not So Hostile Krainzover Haus Rock
 38
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Lichen This Haus Rock
 80
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Pull Up A Drill Porcupine Rock
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 3 pitches
Not Lichen This Haus Rock
 30
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Hostile Krainzover Haus Rock
 58
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Little Haus Haus Rock
 32
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Chockstone Arete Alpenglow Wall
 13
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Spine Haus Rock
 73
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
Crystal Ball Haus Rock
 44
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Sky Pilot Haus Rock
 7
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Ol' Ball and Chain Haus Rock
 3
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad, Sport
Macho Picasso Haus Rock
 8
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma »

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