Morning Glory Wall Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 9,575 ft | 2,918 m |
GPS: |
39.60365, -105.91699 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 20,977 total · 102/month | |
Shared By: | Timothy Hosbach on Feb 4, 2008 · Updates | |
Admins: | Joey Chicharrones, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This is a hidden gem across the river from Zuma Rock. You will find a mix of sport routes, mixed routes, and trad climbs.
Upper Wall
A. Old Trad Crack, 5.9, 1p, gear & bolt.
B. Drill 'Em And Fill 'Em, 5.10-, 1p, bolts.
C. Nothin' But a Thang, 5.9, 1p, bolts & gear.
D. Nothin' But A Rainy Day Thang, 5.9, 1p, bolts.
E. Nemesis, 5.10d, 1p, bolts.
F. Gone Fishing, 5.7+, 1p, gear.
G. Church Of Climbintology, 5.10b, 1p, bolts.
H. Rico Suave Made Me Do It, 5.9, 1p, gear.
I. Slabsters Lament, 5.10, 1p, bolts.
J. Disco Boy, 5.9+, 1p, gear & bolt.
K. Amazing Feets of Glory, 5.10c, bolts.
L. Ian's Route #2, 5.8, gear.
Middle Wall
A. Ants In My Shoe, 5.8, 1p.
B. Temptation Of The Left Layback, 5.11, 1p, bolts.
C. UnBearably Yellow Spider, 5.10c, 1p, bolts.
D. Chris Wilson Made Me Do It, 5.8.
Lower Wall
A. Ralph Fickel Memorial Route, 5.9+, 1p, gear.
B. Levitation, 1p, bolts.
C. Baby Bear Layback, 5.9+, 1p, gear.
D. The Tree Sawga, 5.10, 1p, bolts.
E. Jerr Bear's Final Lick, 5.11b, 1p, bolts.
F. Bear Down On It, 5.10-, 1p, gear & bolts.
G. Teddy Bear Two Step, 5.10-, 1p, bolts.
H. Bear Minimum, 5.9R, 1p, bolts & gear.
I. Bearington Bear Goes Boltin', 8, 1p, bolts.
J. There's A Bear, Where, Right There, 11-, 1p, bolts & gear.
K. Fingerbanger, 5.10a PG13, bolts.
L. Dingo Dango Dyno, 5.10a, bolts.
Getting There
Several options for accessing this crag.
The most reliable option includes a longer approach. Park in the Keystone overflow parking lot or the pullout for Haus Rock. Walk back down the road heading back towards Keystone, aiming for the trailhead by the Settler's Creek neighborhood (trailhead coordinates: 39.60590° N, 105.92843° W.)
The shorter approach hinges on a river crossing, but this depends on water levels: Head to the Zuma Rock pullout, it is on the south side of the road near a barrel. You can see Morning Glory directly across the river. Head down to the river (there is a path of least resistance that limits erosion), cross the log bridge and head up the bank to an old service road. There will be a path in the trees to your right marked with cairns.
Update: As of Fall 2020, the log bridge has been rebuilt. Per Alex Morano: there is a fallen over tree that can be used to cross right at the Zuma Rock pulloff. You can also just cross the river here when the water is low.
Classic Climbing Routes at Morning Glory Wall
Weather Averages
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