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Routes in Morning Glory Wall

Disco Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drill 'em and Fill 'em S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gone Fishing T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Trad Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:

Description

This is a hidden gem across the river from Zuma Rock. You will find a mix of sport routes, mixed routes, and trad climbs.

L->R:

Lower Wall

A. Ralph Fickel Memorial Route, 9+, 1p, gear.
B. Levitation, 1p, bolts.
C. Baby Bear Layback, 7, 1p, gear.
D. The Tree Sawga, 8+, 1p, bolts.
E. Jerr Bear's Ginal Lick, 11-, 1p, bolts.
F. Bear Down On It, 10-, 1p, gear & bolts.
G. Teddy Bear Two Step, 10, 1p, bolts.
H. Bear Minimum, 8 R, 1p, bolts & gear.
I. Bearington Bear Goes Boltin', 8, 1p, bolts.
J. There's A Bear, Where, Right There, 11-, 1p, bolts & gear.

Upper Wall

A. Old Trad Crack, 9, 1p, gear & bolt.
B. Drill 'Em And Fill 'Em, 10-, 1p, bolts.
C. Nothin' But a Thang, 8, 1p, bolts & gear.
D. Nothin' But A Rainy Day Thang, 7+, 1p, bolts.
E. Nemesis, 10, 1p, bolts.
F. Gone Fishing, 7, 1p, gear.
G. Church Of Climbintology, 9+, 1p, bolts.
H. Rico Suave Made Me Do It, 9, 1p, gear.
I. Slabsters Lament, 10, 1p, bolts.
J. Disco Boy, 9+, 1p, gear & bolt.

K. Unknown, 7, 1p.
L. Temptation Of The Left Layback, 11, 1p, bolts.
M. Chris Wilson Made Me Do It, 8.

Getting There

You can see Morning Glory Wall from the road directly across from the Zuma Rock pullout.

4 Total Climbs

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So, the rope crossing is no longer available to access this crag...at least from the hiking up and downstream my homies and I have done. There is a bridge, but it is on private property. So do that at your own risk if you want to, but after fording the river, follow the trail west to a cairn on the south side of the trail. That will basically be the beginning of the approach. Great area with a lot of solid routes. Lots of sport and a few trad lines. Good times if you would like to avoid Haus Rock and its popularity on the weekends. Best book on the area that I have seen thus far is the Summit Climbing Guide by Rick & Laura Karden. Jun 10, 2012
Jeff Bryan
Cortez, co
Jeff Bryan   Cortez, co
If you follow the river up from Haus Rock, pull off or park on the next pulloff to the right walk up river to find the crossing. Then walk back down the river trail and look for a trail going up the hill. Sep 10, 2008

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