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Routes in The Alpenglow Wall

Chockstone Arete, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Equilibrium S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fragile Balance S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Help Gain S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Splittsville? S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Un-named S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: T. Finnigan, S. Astaldi
Page Views: 1,973 total, 11/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 26, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The right side of The Alpenglow Wall is composed of a narrowing slot with several routes taking off from it. The left of these lines chases an interesting arete that climbs with more finess than power. Begin with a fingery traverse to the left, the crux, that gains hidden jugs after one commits to the move. Interesting and thoughtful climbing utilizes a hand on the arete with the feet continuously to the right. A nice series of turns near the end of the route will toss you into the slightly spooky finish that ends left of the arete proper.

Possibly the most interesting climbing on this wall, The Chockstone Arete delivers good stone, interesting climbing with several committing moves, and excellent continuity. I never skip it.

Protection

Bring eight draws and a rope. It has a cold shut lowering station.

Photos

Mike Bannister
  5.10 PG13
Mike Bannister  
  5.10 PG13
Really cool climb. 5.10. Potential for "arete-biting" in a fall. Sep 11, 2012
Dr. VARMENT
Boulder, Colorado
Dr. VARMENT   Boulder, Colorado
Felt 5.10 to me. Aug 15, 2010
Mike b.
  5.10c
Mike b.  
  5.10c
This is one of the better climbs in the area but not an 5.11a this has always been considered a 10c which still seems steep compared to other areas. Two different starts to this climb left or right up the arete. I prefer the left for the cool heel hook move. A good lead but a couple spots are sketch fall areas along the arete. Enjoy! Nov 16, 2004