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The Ol' Ball and Chain
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.3 from 4
votes
Routes in Haus Rock
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Abstract Plain S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Burning Down the Haus S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Chainsaw T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Crystal Ball S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Crystal Baller (link-up) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Cut Deep S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Dance the Magic Dance V4 6B |
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Dink S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dirty Love S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Feet Do Not Fail Me Now S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Half and Half T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hostile Krainzover S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lichen This S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Little Haus S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Little Squirt S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Macho Picasso S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Napoleon’s Syndrome (submitted as Five Nine) S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Not Lichen This S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Not So Hostile Krainzover S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ol' Ball and Chain, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Proppa Toppa S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Road Rash (submitted as Flakin' Out) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Side Plate S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sky Pilot S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Spine, The S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Susie Seka's Short, Yet So Seductive, Little, Flakey Arete S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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They Call Me Shorty S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Throwin' The Drool Again S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Top Soil S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Torqued Blow S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Brady Kendrick |
| Page Views: | 3,020 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | bradyk on Jan 15, 2012 |
| Admins: | Joey Chicharrones, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This variation is named after my wife (JK), or the two routes it starts and finishes on. Start on the Crystal Ball undercling, at the 2nd bolt head directly right through the first bolt on crystal ball direct and up and right into the first bolt on Sky Pilot. Take a deep breath and finish up on Chainsaw. This line provides around 70 feet of climbing on a 50 foot wall.
Protection
In the name of safety and less rope drag, I began the route with the first bolt on Sky Pilot and the two previous bolts directly left pre-clipped. Back clean the route for two bolts, pass 1st bolt on Sky Pilot, then lead the rest of the route. The belayer stands on the boulder. Bring 6-7 draws and a red Camalot. 2 bolt anchor.
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