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Routes in The Alpenglow Wall

Chockstone Arete, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Equilibrium S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fragile Balance S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Help Gain S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rockin' Science (submitted as Un-named) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Splittsville? S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
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GPS: 39.61, -105.916 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 25, 2002 with updates from Oliver Mcdonald
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

The main crag offering several leading options is The Alpenglow Wall. It is the primary wall you encounter after crossing the talus field and humping up the last steep section of the hill. The crag sweeps to the left with South to Westward exposure and is host to the best and longest sport climbs on the hill. Most routes run between 50 and 75 feet in length, are bolt protected, and come with lowering stations. The difficulty begins at 5.10 and runs to mid-5.12. As indicated in the comments to the Keystone area, the Chockstone Arete is an interesting contender for best route on the hill at 5.11a.

L->R:

A. Why Ask Why, 8.
B. Seams Fun, 8+.
C. Help Gain, 11, 65', bolts.
D. Equilibrium, 9+, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Fragile Balance, 11-, 1p, bolts.
F. Splitsville, 9+, 1p, 60', bolts.
G1. Chockstone Arete, 11-, 1p, 80', bolts.
G2. Chockstone Arete Right, 10+, 1p, bolts.
H. Rockin' Science, 12-, 1p, bolts.
I. Hung By Hooks, 11, 1p.
J. Checkerboard, 11+, 1p.
K. Tognar, 12, 1p, TR.

Getting There

Hike up past the talus field for 100 yards or less. The trail will dump you out at the base of The Alpenglow Wall.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Alpenglow Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 16
Equilibrium
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 13
The Chockstone Arete
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Equilibrium
 16
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
The Chockstone Arete
 13
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
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Hey hey - a lot of us ex-local Breck climbers put up these routes, including the ones on the lower Hause Rock block - no one seems to be around anymore, including John Sore, Lance Hadfield, and Matt O'Connor, but there is a lot of good climbing to be done up there, not to mention an unfinished Eric Decaria route that splits off of Crystal Ball (12a) on Hause Rock, which could bring Summit County into the early 90's with it's first 5.14.

The Alpenglow wall is very good granite at altitude, although the rates seem to be creeping up. We alsways called the Chockstone Arete about 10c, but it may have changed over the years, but last year it still seemed about that grade. I only say that because the routes up there actually start at 5.7, there is a nice bolte 5.8 and 5.9, so don't avoid it b/c you think it is over your head...

Also check out the good routes on the lower Hummingbird Boulder, the Satellite Wall to the far left of Alpenglow, and most of the routes on Hause Rock. Crystal Ball and the driect start to it, Sky Pilot (12b/c) are really really good...

have fun Jun 27, 2002
None of these comments really describe where the rocks are. Is this area on Keystone the ski mountain? If so, where on the mountain? North, South, East , West face? How far up the mountain? Are there trails. Where should I start from to get there? Do these questions seem reasonable? I would just like to go there, as I will be attending a conference at Keystone and want to get some climbing in. Jun 30, 2002
Scott Robertson
Portland, OR
Scott Robertson   Portland, OR
Not sure why the description on the main page of this area didn't help you, but this area is found by getting off I-70 at silverthorne, taking 6 up to keystone and instead of taking the right hand turn into the free lot/River Run area (Gondola Way i think) you continue and take your next right. You'll know you missed the right because the next right is a-basin, hehe, I haven't actually climbed at the area but used to hike up there last winter while waiting for snow working at keystone. Find the turnout just up the road, and start hiking. Good luck. Jan 30, 2003
There is some great rock to be had if you're in the area. Feel free to contact the staff at the Breckenridge Climbing Wall (970) 453-1734 if you want some local info. There are a few other areas in the county also worth checking out. May 1, 2006
Scott Miller
Denver, CO
Scott Miller   Denver, CO
Ratings are getting a bit inflated.... May 29, 2006

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