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Routes in The Alpenglow Wall

Chockstone Arete, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Equilibrium S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fragile Balance S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Help Gain S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Splittsville? S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Un-named S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: S. Astaldi and T. Finnigan
Page Views: 1,342 total, 7/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 3, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

About 30 feet left of The Chockstone Arete are a pair of lines that run up a clean wall to cold shut anchors. The left of these ticks in at 5.9+ and entails some interesting moves through largely very blocky terrain. The final headwall hides some good, crisp edges. It is worth a burn and is readily top-roped.

Per Mike Bannister this is very powerful right off the deck with a somewhat high first clip. People have decked here. Then it has more moderate climbing in the middle. A move to the left at the very top keeps the grade under 5.10 though straight up also goes.

Protection

Eight to ten draws and a rope.

Location

Per Mike Bannister this is the third route to the left of the large chimney. There is a weird 10cm hole at the base.

Photos

Chip Loomis
  5.10-
Chip Loomis  
  5.10-
I thought this was the third bolted route to the left of The Chockstone Arete?

I must have missed the move just below the anchors, b/c climbing the face seemed incredibly more difficult than a 9+ move.

6 bolts seems correct. Aug 2, 2010
I'm pretty sure I did this line on Saturday and it only had 6 bolts. Not that it needed any more; it was just a little confusing given the info here.

Anyway, just for added clarity: its more like 15-20 ft left of the Chockstone Arete, the middle of 3 bolted lines.

It's got a pretty committing first clip, but don't let it phase you, there is an awesome vertical edge just below the bolt that you can lay left on and clip from once you've got both feet up.

Fun line. Sep 9, 2002