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Routes in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express

Air Mail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Backslash T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Barbie Doll Arete, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Bit by Bit T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bottlenecks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clean Dan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Coffee Break with Joe T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Cold Turkey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coniferous Types T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crazy Fingers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cruising Lane T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Detour, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Doc's Little Brother T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dr. Michael Solar T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Duh Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Early Bird Special T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fine Line T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five Fang Overhang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fork in the Road T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Formula, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Foxtrot T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Funeral March T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hang Ten T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Henry Chinaski T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Highway 61 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Inverted Vee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Iron Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kashmir T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kubla Khan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lady Fingers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lunar Avenue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Lunar Lander T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
MRJR (aka MB III) T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Masterbator's Edge, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Milk Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Milk and Honey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Parallels T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pool of Blood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Positively Fourth Street T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rhadamanthus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
River Of Darkness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Road Narrows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sign of the Cross T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snail Mail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Srinagar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tampon T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tango T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tanqueray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Terminal Velocity T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Texas Two-Step T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Three Lane Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Tickle, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Toprope Right of Formula TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trip Itch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tryptich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whatever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Willow World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Working Class Hero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
X T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Xanadu T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zap Snack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zip Code T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Skip Guerin/Bob Horan, date?
Page Views: 3,600 total, 28/month
Shared By: adam brink on May 10, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Seldom done and very misunderstood (there is actually plenty of good gear, I swear!), this is an unheralded Eldo classic. The body movement through the thin sidepulls and finger locks is everything a trad climber dreams of; subtle, precise, technical and just a little bit powerful. And to top it off, the climbing is framed by stunning yellow streaks of lichen.

Location

This thin crack beauty lies to the right of Parallels and Foxtrot. After finishing the last crux and locking the perfect finger jam, traverse left and up past the top of Foxtrot to the Parallels anchors.

Protection

It blows my mind that Guerin and Horan lead this without small Aliens and offsets. Those boys were, well, tough! Now days, the lead is not so severe. Only a small runout from a piece at the first ledge to the next jug and good piece gives this any spice (and the climbing is easy there). After that, it is small cams and RPs.

Photos

Monty
Golden, CO
  5.12a PG13
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.12a PG13
This is a great route that is relatively safe. I found it nice to have (2x) 00 c3s to protect the lower crux. Super fun. Dec 17, 2011
Casey McTaggart
boulder, co
Casey McTaggart   boulder, co
Walking down to Foxtrot and Crazy Fingers today (4/18), we ran into a nice surprise- new anchors above Crazy Fingers. No more sharing with Parallels! Yay! Thank you, guys. Apr 18, 2010
Dusty
Fort Collins
Dusty   Fort Collins
This climb definitely deserves an anchor. Using the Parallels' anchor is a total drag, literally, when you have to clean. Your rope gets all sorts of chewed up. The three climbs here are definitely popular enough to warrant two anchors. Nov 9, 2009
Wayne Crill
an Altered State
  5.12a/b PG13
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
  5.12a/b PG13
I agree about the lack of an anchor being really "inconvenient" on this route. After redpointing this route, I was traversing over to the Parallels anchor. I didn't think I'd need any gear for this as I have traveresed around on this slab quite a bit, however I did have a couple nuts just in case. The way I go there is one section thats not trivial, its not hard, I don't know ~5.7 at the hardest, I decided to put a nut in the slab above Foxtrot crack just in case. I was stepping through this little move a bit farther L. and my foot slipped causing me to take an awkward swinging fall and I jacked my back into the dihedral atop Foxtrot, ouch! Whatever?!, my own stupid fault, nevertheless this route is spectacular, quite technical, precise and enjoyable. Classic. I think it's the best of these three cracks. Jalepeño spicy. Nov 2, 2008
StanL
Louisville, CO
  5.12a PG13
StanL   Louisville, CO
  5.12a PG13
Lots of varied climbing and just enough gear that kept me from freaking out. Every move is super precise and technical. No fluff from the jug off the ledge to the slab. Make sure to save some strength for the run from the sloping rail to the final finger lock which covers solid 5.11 terrain with gear well below your feet. An onsight of Crazy Fingers would be very impressive! Jul 18, 2008
Ted Lanzano
Boulder, CO
 
Ted Lanzano   Boulder, CO
 
Agreed, this route is totally classic. The rock is super solid, it doesn't get much traffic, delicate moves, and lots of other sweet climbs nearby as well.

There isn't much gear for the start of the climb, but the climbing isn't too hard. Once you get in the first good piece (blue/black offset Alien) from the jug ~15 feet up, you move into the crux and you have to make a high reach to get in the next thin pieces. This can be a bit pumpy and scary, but you're first piece is pretty good.

This climb could benefit if it had its own fixed anchors. That way you wouldn't have to cross through the top of Fox Trot and Parallels (which can be a logistical challenge) to get the current anchors. May 10, 2007