Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Skip Guerin/Bob Horan, date?
Page Views: 3,858 total · 27/month
Shared By: Adam Brink on May 10, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


27 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Seldom done and very misunderstood (there is actually plenty of good gear, I swear!), this is an unheralded Eldo classic. The body movement through the thin sidepulls and finger locks is everything a trad climber dreams of; subtle, precise, technical and just a little bit powerful. And to top it off, the climbing is framed by stunning yellow streaks of lichen.

Location

This thin crack beauty lies to the right of Parallels and Foxtrot. After finishing the last crux and locking the perfect finger jam, traverse left and up past the top of Foxtrot to the Parallels anchors.

Protection

It blows my mind that Guerin and Horan lead this without small Aliens and offsets. Those boys were, well, tough! Now days, the lead is not so severe. Only a small runout from a piece at the first ledge to the next jug and good piece gives this any spice (and the climbing is easy there). After that, it is small cams and RPs.

Photos

Ted Lanzano
Boulder, CO
 
Ted Lanzano   Boulder, CO
 
Agreed, this route is totally classic. The rock is super solid, it doesn't get much traffic, delicate moves, and lots of other sweet climbs nearby as well.

There isn't much gear for the start of the climb, but the climbing isn't too hard. Once you get in the first good piece (blue/black offset Alien) from the jug ~15 feet up, you move into the crux and you have to make a high reach to get in the next thin pieces. This can be a bit pumpy and scary, but you're first piece is pretty good.

This climb could benefit if it had its own fixed anchors. That way you wouldn't have to cross through the top of Fox Trot and Parallels (which can be a logistical challenge) to get the current anchors. May 10, 2007
StanL
Louisville, CO
  5.12a PG13
StanL   Louisville, CO
  5.12a PG13
Lots of varied climbing and just enough gear that kept me from freaking out. Every move is super precise and technical. No fluff from the jug off the ledge to the slab. Make sure to save some strength for the run from the sloping rail to the final finger lock which covers solid 5.11 terrain with gear well below your feet. An onsight of Crazy Fingers would be very impressive! Jul 18, 2008
Wayne Crill
an Altered State
  5.12a/b PG13
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
  5.12a/b PG13
I agree about the lack of an anchor being really "inconvenient" on this route. After redpointing this route, I was traversing over to the Parallels anchor. I didn't think I'd need any gear for this as I have traveresed around on this slab quite a bit, however I did have a couple nuts just in case. The way I go there is one section thats not trivial, its not hard, I don't know ~5.7 at the hardest, I decided to put a nut in the slab above Foxtrot crack just in case. I was stepping through this little move a bit farther L. and my foot slipped causing me to take an awkward swinging fall and I jacked my back into the dihedral atop Foxtrot, ouch! Whatever?!, my own stupid fault, nevertheless this route is spectacular, quite technical, precise and enjoyable. Classic. I think it's the best of these three cracks. JalepeƱo spicy. Nov 2, 2008
Dusty
Fort Collins
Dusty   Fort Collins
This climb definitely deserves an anchor. Using the Parallels' anchor is a total drag, literally, when you have to clean. Your rope gets all sorts of chewed up. The three climbs here are definitely popular enough to warrant two anchors. Nov 9, 2009
Casey McTaggart
boulder, co
Casey McTaggart   boulder, co
Walking down to Foxtrot and Crazy Fingers today (4/18), we ran into a nice surprise- new anchors above Crazy Fingers. No more sharing with Parallels! Yay! Thank you, guys. Apr 18, 2010
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.12a PG13
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.12a PG13
This is a great route that is relatively safe. I found it nice to have (2x) 00 c3s to protect the lower crux. Super fun. Dec 17, 2011