Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,102 total · 16/month
Shared By: Kevin Capps on Jul 15, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start about 10 feet to the left of Torqued Blow, and climb up and left to a high 1st bolt. A powerful 12+ sequence angles up and right to a seam where you can get a quick rest by the 3rd bolt before pulling some reachy and thin crux moves on the blank face past 2 more bolts until you reach the anchor.

Location

This route starts about 10 feet left of Torqued Blow and just to the right of the small boulder and to the right of Sky Pilot.

Protection

5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor, and a stick clip for 1st bolt.

Photos

Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.13d
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
  5.13d
I'm not sure if I got the name right, and I don't have any FA info. If this route is really 12d, from what I saw in the guidebook, I must have missed something or a hold could have broken because going straight up after bolt 3 starts a sequence that's way harder than 12+. Pretty cool route though! Jul 15, 2013
Maybe I was just having a bad day, but this seems substantially harder than Macho Picasso. If you take the rightmost start (not the Sky Pilot one), it's fierce and bouldery all the way to the second bolt, and I'm not sure how one even goes about snagging the crimp by the fourth bolt with the correct (right) hand -- it's a full body length above the break with nothing but blankness in between.

Anyway, maybe just having a bad day. These things have been known to happen! Jul 21, 2013
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.13d
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
  5.13d
I agree, after trying everything to get to that crimp, I ended up just going to the right hand side pull out right, getting the crimp with my left, matching, then clipping. That way you're set up for the next sequence. Jul 21, 2013
Ted Lanzano
Boulder, CO
Ted Lanzano   Boulder, CO
I also thought upper half of Burning Down the Haus was stout. For a somewhat easier variation, climb the burly first half of the route to the third bolt and finish on the crack out right. This is called Halfway Haus and is around 5.13 b/c. Or, do the opening boulder problem of Burning Down the Haus and link into Sky Pilot at the second bolt. This link is slightly easier than Halfway Haus but still packs a punch all the way to the top jug. Good times at Haus Rock! Oct 8, 2013
Replaced anchor in 2015, hardware courtesy of the ASCA. Consider a donation today @ safeclimbing.org. Jan 31, 2016
I worked this route a bunch last summer and one-hung it a few times before other commitments drew me away. I was trying the most direct and difficult start and using a thin, somewhat hollow ear hold for my left hand to snag the above-mentioned crimp with my right hand and clip the crux bolt. It ended up being not too hard with the correct feet.

As it is, it feels like solid 13d to me: two V7/8 sequences separated by some pumpy climbing and one very good rest. I'm of course curious if anyone has redpointed it in its current state.

I got on it again today, and as I was trying the move to the infamous crimp, the ear hold creaked noticeably. Without this hold, I think it would be impossible for me (matching the crimp seems unlikely with my fat fingers). I hope to come back up at some point to reinforce it, but if in the meantime someone else tries it, please don't rip the ear off. It's visibly wiggling, so I don't think it'll take much. Jul 16, 2016
This route is quite cool with excellent, sustained movement. The only negatives being some prickly holds and a huge rest out right between bolts 3 and 4 that breaks up the rhythm of the route.

I did break the ear that Chris mentioned, but fortunately it left a decent, two finger sidepull and didn't change the difficulty of the route significantly.

With the big rest out right, I think the route is low end 8b. Going directly from bolts 3 to 4 without looping right would be significantly harder and likely involve a big dyno.

Great summer zone with cool temps and shade until 1pm. Jun 21, 2018