Mountain Project Logo

Routes in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express

Air Mail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Backslash T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Barbie Doll Arete, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Bit by Bit T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bottlenecks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clean Dan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Coffee Break with Joe T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Cold Turkey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coniferous Types T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crazy Fingers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cruising Lane T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Detour, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Doc's Little Brother T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dr. Michael Solar T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Duh Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Early Bird Special T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fine Line T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five Fang Overhang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fork in the Road T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Formula, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Foxtrot T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Funeral March T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hang Ten T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Henry Chinaski T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Highway 61 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Inverted Vee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Iron Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kashmir T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kubla Khan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lady Fingers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lunar Avenue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Lunar Lander T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
MRJR (aka MB III) T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Masterbator's Edge, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Milk Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Milk and Honey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Parallels T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pool of Blood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Positively Fourth Street T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rhadamanthus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
River Of Darkness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Road Narrows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sign of the Cross T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snail Mail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Srinagar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tampon T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tango T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tanqueray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Terminal Velocity T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Texas Two-Step T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Three Lane Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Tickle, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Toprope Right of Formula TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trip Itch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tryptich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whatever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Willow World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Working Class Hero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
X T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Xanadu T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zap Snack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zip Code T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Elevation: 6,687 ft
GPS: 39.932, -105.289 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 37,923 total · 262/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

This is the second highest section of the West Ridge. It arbitrarily extends from Xanadu to Pony Express, since these are well-known, easily identified routes. This section is the most crack-rich section of the ridge. As a result, it has a different feel than most of the rest of The West Ridge. Count on at least a 25 minutes approach.

Note, this section includes some of the loosest sections of the ridge in a section referred to as "The (sic) Construction Zone" by some.

Most routes in this section are single pitch in length. However, recent development have pushed routes into the upper stretches of a section referred to as "The Rotten Wall" by R. Rossiter in his well-received guidebooks. Some of the better lines here include: the intimidating Duh Dihedral, 5.6; the delightful Positively Fourth Street, 5.9+; Xanadu, 5.10a; the fun Hand Crack, 5.10b; the hidden gem Variation to Mail Ridge, 5.10; Sooberb, 5.10c; the fun Zip Code, 5.11b; the demanding Parallels, 5.11b s; the delicious Terminal Velocity, 5.11b/c s; the amazing Bit by Bit, 5.11c/d; the technical Foxtrot, 5.11d s; among others.

To approach this area, you park at the W end of Eldorado Canyon State Park, hike the Eldorado Canyon Trail to the Rincon Trail, boulder hop across the talus and drop down and right to this section of the ridge. It may be more enjoyable to hike up the base of the West Ridge via stream crossing at Milton Boulder or hiking from the East end of the park. Time-wise, it's probably close either way.

Most of these routes is use descents of rappelling. Walkoffs will generally be time-consuming in this section of the ridge.

Note, there is some loose rock in the area.
Seasonal Closures Details

Getting There

Approach is dependent upon the depth of the creek, the section of wall you wish to climb, the parking available, and your desires for the day. You can approach the top of the ridge by parking at the W end of the park, hiking up the Eldorado Canyon Trail, take the turn off for the Rincon access, then boulder hop the talus, and cross to the Rincon. Then angle down a short way to the top of the ridge. You can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the Milton Boulder, wade the stream or boulder hop (Aug-ish to May-ish) to the base of the ridge and ascend. Finally, you can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the E end of the park, cross the bridge, hike on the trail paralleling the creek, and traverse the slippery 3rd class ramp around to the base of the West Ridge. Note, this last traverse is intimidating for small kids and particularly green partners. Then, you hike along the trail at the base of the W face of the West Ridge to your desired route.

Enjoy!

64 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Duh Dihedral
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Funeral March
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fine Line
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Positively Fourth Street
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Xanadu
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning)
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Air Mail
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Zip Code
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tango
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Parallels
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Terminal Velocity
Trad
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bit by Bit
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Foxtrot
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Pony
Trad
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Crazy Fingers
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Duh Dihedral 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Funeral March 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Fine Line 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Positively Fourth Street 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Xanadu 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Hand Crack (aka White Light… 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Air Mail 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Zip Code 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Tango 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Parallels 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Terminal Velocity 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Bit by Bit 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Foxtrot 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
Iron Pony 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Crazy Fingers 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

0 Comments

More About West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New
Fixed Hardware Report (24)

All Photos Within West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express (154)

Most Popular · Newest