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Routes in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express

Air Mail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Backslash T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Barbie Doll Arete, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Bit by Bit T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bottlenecks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clean Dan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Coffee Break with Joe T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Cold Turkey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coniferous Types T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crazy Fingers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cruising Lane T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Detour, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Doc's Little Brother T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dr. Michael Solar T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Duh Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Early Bird Special T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fine Line T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five Fang Overhang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fork in the Road T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Formula, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Foxtrot T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Funeral March T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hang Ten T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Henry Chinaski T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Highway 61 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Inverted Vee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Iron Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kashmir T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kubla Khan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lady Fingers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lunar Avenue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Lunar Lander T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
MRJR (aka MB III) T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Masterbator's Edge, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Milk Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Milk and Honey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Parallels T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pool of Blood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Positively Fourth Street T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rhadamanthus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
River Of Darkness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Road Narrows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sign of the Cross T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snail Mail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Srinagar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tampon T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tango T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tanqueray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Terminal Velocity T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Texas Two-Step T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Three Lane Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Tickle, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Toprope Right of Formula TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trip Itch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tryptich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whatever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Willow World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Working Class Hero T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
X T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Xanadu T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zap Snack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zip Code T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is the second highest section of the West Ridge. It arbitrarily extends from Xanadu to Pony Express, since these are well-known, easily identified routes. This section is the most crack-rich section of the ridge. As a result, it has a different feel than most of the rest of The West Ridge. Count on at least a 25 minutes approach.

Note, this section includes some of the loosest sections of the ridge in a section referred to as "The (sic) Construction Zone" by some.

Most routes in this section are single pitch in length. However, recent development have pushed routes into the upper stretches of a section referred to as "The Rotten Wall" by R. Rossiter in his well-received guidebooks. Some of the better lines here include: the intimidating Duh Dihedral, 5.6; the delightful Positively Fourth Street, 5.9+; Xanadu, 5.10a; the fun Hand Crack, 5.10b; the hidden gem Variation to Mail Ridge, 5.10; Sooberb, 5.10c; the fun Zip Code, 5.11b; the demanding Parallels, 5.11b s; the delicious Terminal Velocity, 5.11b/c s; the amazing Bit by Bit, 5.11c/d; the technical Foxtrot, 5.11d s; among others.

To approach this area, you park at the W end of Eldorado Canyon State Park, hike the Eldorado Canyon Trail to the Rincon Trail, boulder hop across the talus and drop down and right to this section of the ridge. It may be more enjoyable to hike up the base of the West Ridge via stream crossing at Milton Boulder or hiking from the East end of the park. Time-wise, it's probably close either way.

Most of these routes is use descents of rappelling. Walkoffs will generally be time-consuming in this section of the ridge.

Note, there is some loose rock in the area.

Getting There

Approach is dependent upon the depth of the creek, the section of wall you wish to climb, the parking available, and your desires for the day. You can approach the top of the ridge by parking at the W end of the park, hiking up the Eldorado Canyon Trail, take the turn off for the Rincon access, then boulder hop the talus, and cross to the Rincon. Then angle down a short way to the top of the ridge. You can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the Milton Boulder, wade the stream or boulder hop (Aug-ish to May-ish) to the base of the ridge and ascend. Finally, you can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the E end of the park, cross the bridge, hike on the trail paralleling the creek, and traverse the slippery 3rd class ramp around to the base of the West Ridge. Note, this last traverse is intimidating for small kids and particularly green partners. Then, you hike along the trail at the base of the W face of the West Ridge to your desired route.

Enjoy!

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Classic Climbing Routes at West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 178
Duh Dihedral
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 34
Funeral March
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 70
Fine Line
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 302
Positively Fourth Street
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 254
Xanadu
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 354
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning)
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 18
Zap Snack
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 74
Zip Code
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 9
Tango
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 85
Parallels
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 142
Terminal Velocity
Trad
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 11
Bit by Bit
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
 61
Foxtrot
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 19
Iron Pony
Trad
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
 27
Crazy Fingers
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Duh Dihedral
 178
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Funeral March
 34
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Fine Line
 70
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Positively Fourth Street
 302
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Xanadu
 254
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Hand Crack (aka White Light…
 354
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Zap Snack
 18
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Zip Code
 74
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Tango
 9
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Parallels
 85
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Terminal Velocity
 142
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Bit by Bit
 11
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Foxtrot
 61
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
Iron Pony
 19
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Crazy Fingers
 27
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 Trad
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