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Routes in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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Air Mail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Backslash T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Barbie Doll Arete, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Bit by Bit T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Bottlenecks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Clean Dan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Coffee Break with Joe T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Cold Turkey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Coniferous Types T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crazy Fingers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Cruising Lane T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Detour, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Doc's Little Brother T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dr. Michael Solar T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Duh Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Early Bird Special T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fine Line T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Five Fang Overhang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Fork in the Road T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Formula, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Foxtrot T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Funeral March T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hang Ten T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Henry Chinaski T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Highway 61 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Inverted Vee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Iron Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Kashmir T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Kubla Khan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lady Fingers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lunar Avenue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R |
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Lunar Lander T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Masterbator's Edge, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Milk and Honey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Milk Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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MRJR (aka MB III) T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Parallels T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pool of Blood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Positively Fourth Street T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rhadamanthus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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River Of Darkness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Road Narrows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sign of the Cross T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Snail Mail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Srinagar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tampon T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Tango T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Tanqueray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Terminal Velocity T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Texas Two-Step T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Three Lane Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Tickle, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Toprope Right of Formula TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Trip Itch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tryptich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Whatever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Willow World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Working Class Hero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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X T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Xanadu T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Zap Snack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Zip Code T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: |
Trad, Sport, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches
Fixed Hardware
(4) |
| FA: | Dougald MacDonald, Mark Hammond |
| Page Views: | 1,752 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Dougald MacDonald on Dec 31, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is a fun, challenging route that takes the hanging arete to the right of Inverted Vee (just right of the Parallels/Foxtrot area of the W. Ridge.) Similar to Aerospace but it's a bit harder and uses the arete more. Great rock. Mark Hammond got the first redpoint.
Either belay on the ground or scramble 25 feet to a good ledge and belay. NOTE: If you belay on the ground, the leader must rappel! You cannot lower from the top with a 60-meter rope if you belay on the ground! A doubled 60-meter rope just reaches the good ledge.
Climb the first 40 feet of Inverted Vee (awkward 5.8), protected with wires and hand-sized cams. From a wide stem, clip the first bolt on the face to the right. From the second bolt, move right to the arete and climb past two more bolts with very tenuous moves and clips. The moves are definitely harder than the clips, but it's all hard, thin, and [balancy]. The major difficulties end at a big stance. Continue up the arete past two more bolts, then move around to the right. Stem rests are possible on the chimney wall to the right, but the chockstones can (and probably should) be avoided. Anyway, the climb moves back left on a narrow, hanging slab past one more hard move at the last bolt. You'll find the anchor over the huge roof.
Remember: You MUST have a 60-meter rope to get down from this anchor (or two ropes), and your belayer must be at the ledge if you lower off!
Pitch 2: Climb the short arete and face up and right from the anchor. (You may want to move the belay up for a more comfortable stance.) Fun and somewhat spicy 5.8 or 5.9. RPs necessary. Probably R-rated.To descend, scramble down to climber's left (descender's right) to find a big tree with slings around it. A short rap with a swing to the right gets you back to the bolted anchor. Most people will do just the first pitch.
Either belay on the ground or scramble 25 feet to a good ledge and belay. NOTE: If you belay on the ground, the leader must rappel! You cannot lower from the top with a 60-meter rope if you belay on the ground! A doubled 60-meter rope just reaches the good ledge.
Climb the first 40 feet of Inverted Vee (awkward 5.8), protected with wires and hand-sized cams. From a wide stem, clip the first bolt on the face to the right. From the second bolt, move right to the arete and climb past two more bolts with very tenuous moves and clips. The moves are definitely harder than the clips, but it's all hard, thin, and [balancy]. The major difficulties end at a big stance. Continue up the arete past two more bolts, then move around to the right. Stem rests are possible on the chimney wall to the right, but the chockstones can (and probably should) be avoided. Anyway, the climb moves back left on a narrow, hanging slab past one more hard move at the last bolt. You'll find the anchor over the huge roof.
Remember: You MUST have a 60-meter rope to get down from this anchor (or two ropes), and your belayer must be at the ledge if you lower off!
Pitch 2: Climb the short arete and face up and right from the anchor. (You may want to move the belay up for a more comfortable stance.) Fun and somewhat spicy 5.8 or 5.9. RPs necessary. Probably R-rated.To descend, scramble down to climber's left (descender's right) to find a big tree with slings around it. A short rap with a swing to the right gets you back to the bolted anchor. Most people will do just the first pitch.
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