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Routes in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express

Air Mail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Backslash T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Barbie Doll Arete, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Bit by Bit T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bottlenecks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clean Dan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Coffee Break with Joe T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Cold Turkey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coniferous Types T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crazy Fingers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cruising Lane T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Detour, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Doc's Little Brother T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dr. Michael Solar T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Duh Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Early Bird Special T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fine Line T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five Fang Overhang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fork in the Road T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Formula, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Foxtrot T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Funeral March T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hang Ten T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Henry Chinaski T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Highway 61 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Inverted Vee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Iron Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kashmir T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kubla Khan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lady Fingers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lunar Avenue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Lunar Lander T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
MRJR (aka MB III) T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Masterbator's Edge, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Milk Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Milk and Honey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Parallels T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pool of Blood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Positively Fourth Street T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rhadamanthus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
River Of Darkness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Road Narrows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sign of the Cross T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snail Mail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Srinagar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tampon T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tango T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tanqueray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Terminal Velocity T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Texas Two-Step T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Three Lane Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Tickle, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Toprope Right of Formula TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trip Itch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tryptich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whatever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Willow World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Working Class Hero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
X T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Xanadu T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zap Snack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zip Code T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Pat Ament and Carl Diehl, 1975
Page Views: 3,072 total, 15/month
Shared By: Tyler Jones on May 6, 2001 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The route is located in an area called Cirque of Cracks. If you follow the West Ridge trail past Positively Fourth Street, it will reach a crest and drop down a little... from here it's only about another 200 feet further. Look for an obvious off-width (Duh Dihedral) and some beautiful cracks on the right (Hand Crack, Terminal Velocity). Pool of Blood follows the large flake about 15 feet left of the off-width. I believe the name should be changed to Rope Drag, but otherwise a great climb.

Start at the obvious large flake. The crack is just about fist jam size, but it's leaning at an awkward angle that can keep you from lying back. Continue to the top of the flake (horn) and traverse right to Duh Dihedral. Finish up Duh Dihedral ending at a two-bolt anchor.

This is a great climb, because it is challenging to figure out and not as easy as it looks, even with the nasty rope drag (remember long runners!)

Protection

Bring #3 Camalots!! The easiest way to do this would be with at least a couple #3s and a #2 cam (use a #3.5 if you don't have two #3s). Mid sized cams from 0.3 to 1 for the finish. Plenty of single length runners.
Matt Rhodin
Denver, CO
Matt Rhodin   Denver, CO
No need to worry about rope drag on this one. It wasn't bad, and even when you do get it, you're already on the 5.6 finish. Aug 6, 2016
The Blueprint Part Dank
FEMA Region VIII
5.8+
The Blueprint Part Dank   FEMA Region VIII
5.8+
The route presents a bit of a rope-drag quandary. If you place long enough runners to avoid rope drag at the initial (crux) handcrack, you're probably going to deck in the event of a fall, but if you don't place long runners, the rope drag when you transition to the Duh Dihedral will be horrific. The solution we came up with was to have the leader tie into both ends of the rope, clipping one side to the gear in the fist crack, then transitioning to Duh Dihedral, clipping the other end of the rope to a couple pieces, going on belay on that end, then untying the first strand of rope. Made things much smoother. May 29, 2016
The Blueprint Part Dank
FEMA Region VIII
5.8+
The Blueprint Part Dank   FEMA Region VIII
5.8+
Felt a little bit easy for a 5.9, though I have big hands, so the jams were much less strenuous for me than for most folks. Regardless of grade, if you're up at Cirque of the Cracks, do yourself a favor and climb this unexpected gem. May 29, 2016
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.9+
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  5.9+
Definitely harder than it looks. I thought it was harder - at least much more strenuous - than White Lightning.

Up to the first ledge I would call thuggish 5.8, then the crux is getting up onto the second ledge. First part was bomber hands, second part was offwidth between hands and fist with a weird-ass move onto the ledge. Both parts took #3 just fine, albeit second part a little wider than the first. Either way, splitter gear.

I put runners on the following pieces: last move of the 5.9 part; once in the traverse to protect your second; another for the first piece in Duh Dihedral. Did that and had zero drag. I hadn't considered runners on the #3s to keep them from walking, but good call on that. That crack is deep.

Disagree with whoever called this pumpy. Three moves to a ledge; another three moves to another ledge. Thuggish is the word you're looking for. Pretty fun route, worth doing. Aug 19, 2013
Timothy
Fort Collins, Colorado
Timothy   Fort Collins, Colorado
I thought this climb was great. It would get 4 stars from Wolverine pub. in the Red or New. May 28, 2012
Canon  
Hey Juan,

I tried getting your #3 out of there. I even rappelled in to try and unstick it as well. I got nice and bloody in the process. I would think you need a nut tool taped to a nice stout stick, another nut tool, and a third hand. Good luck! Jul 24, 2011
Dear community,

I am beginner climber and I left a #3 Cam 20 feet up on the route Pool of Blood. It was impossible for me to remove.

I am new to the community and would like to offer a beer to any friendly climber who can retrieve it.

thank you so much,
Juan Lopez Jul 5, 2011
This climb is short, but can be deceptively awkward for a beginner leader. The crack behind the flake is slippery, and slightly flaring, Indian Creekish, 5.9 off-hands, so be solid at the grade. Use slings on your 3" Camalots on the wide flake section, or they will walk when you traverse over to the Duh Dihedral. Feb 8, 2009
Chris White
Boulder
Chris White   Boulder
BLOODY FIST JAMS. Sep 14, 2008
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
 
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
 
Piece-o-crap. Sep 16, 2006
pfwein
Boulder, CO
 
pfwein   Boulder, CO
 
A #4 Camalot (old size) fits nicely at the first bulge. May 14, 2006
Brian Weinstein  
  5.9
I couldn't place anything larger then 3 inches. There was no real offwidth, just hands to wide hands. Pretty unique line to the area. Well worth doing, if in passing. Jun 26, 2005
Jason Shatek  
5.9+
I followed this route yesterday. Pretty beefy for a 9, I'd say. This route is all about brute force, there is no delicate foot work to be done. For me, it was more about the upper body pulling you over each of the flakes than anything. I tried to use good foot work, but that didn't seem to work very well :). May 8, 2005
Danny
  5.9
Danny  
  5.9
This is an exciting 5.9 lead. The gear is bomber, but it is pumpy (at least to me) so you really can't place too much. The 2 crux sections are followed by good rests. Even though this route is fairly short it is well worth doing despite the rope drag. Enjoy! Apr 18, 2005
Shane Zentner
Colorado
  5.9
Shane Zentner   Colorado
  5.9
#3 Camalots. The anchor at the top of 'Duh Dihedral' needs to be looked at. The left bolt needs to be tightened, as I recently discovered while hanging from the anchor. Dec 20, 2004
SirVato
Boulder
 
SirVato   Boulder
 
Fun route- although short it was actually quite challenging!! I'm still new to leading 5.9, so when I followed this I had to imagine what the lead was like, and personally I'm glad he did it and not me!! Both sections of the flake are awkward and hard to lay back- but were easy to protect. It is definitely harder than it appears to be from the ground! Oct 16, 2003
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
This is fun route up two beautiful flakes. The first one more offwidth and much wider and the second one about 2" wide all the way. Both slope up and out. I felt the second flake is the harder of the two, because the adjacent wall to the left is basically blank and the other side of the flake is featureless as well. Its inverted crack climbing to the ledge. Jamarouski! A fun TR after Du Dihedral, well worth the effort. Jul 4, 2002
In Ament's guide "Eldorado" (published "75) there's a picture of Ament on the first ascent leading it with totally natural pro a la the Brits. He carried up chockstones, slung them with webbing and climbed on. Not having the right size at one point, he sent down the rope for a few more rocks and there's a picture of him hauling them up. When Mark Willford (maybe 15 at the time) and I saw the picture, it was his idea to try the same thing; no nuts only chockstones and we did it! He led, (one of his first leads) and I just kept tossing stones up to him! At the time we all had a little pool going as to how long he was going to live. I guess we all lost :)! Feb 12, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
This route can be finished directly from the top of the flake to the tree on some small holds and seams. This is probably 5.11- and there really is no gear (as I learned on lead), so a TR is advisable. (Bubb, Donson, Bushey Winter Y2K) Nov 5, 2001
Just did this last night. Great climb! Definitely long runners, and more than one #3 Camalot. The Pool of Blood crack is beautiful, but watch for loose junk in Duh Dihedral. Jun 28, 2001