Mountain Project Logo

Routes in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express

Air Mail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Backslash T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Barbie Doll Arete, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Bit by Bit T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bottlenecks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clean Dan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Coffee Break with Joe T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Cold Turkey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coniferous Types T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crazy Fingers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cruising Lane T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Detour, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Doc's Little Brother T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dr. Michael Solar T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Duh Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Early Bird Special T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fine Line T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five Fang Overhang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fork in the Road T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Formula, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Foxtrot T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Funeral March T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hang Ten T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Henry Chinaski T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Highway 61 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Inverted Vee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Iron Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kashmir T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kubla Khan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lady Fingers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lunar Avenue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Lunar Lander T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
MRJR (aka MB III) T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Masterbator's Edge, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Milk Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Milk and Honey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Parallels T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pool of Blood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Positively Fourth Street T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rhadamanthus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
River Of Darkness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Road Narrows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sign of the Cross T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snail Mail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Srinagar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tampon T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tango T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tanqueray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Terminal Velocity T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Texas Two-Step T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Three Lane Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Tickle, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Toprope Right of Formula TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trip Itch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tryptich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whatever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Willow World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Working Class Hero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
X T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Xanadu T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zap Snack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zip Code T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 25 ft
FA: Erickson and Walsh, 1970
Page Views: 2,843 total, 14/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


126 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a nice steep crack with lots of face holds just left of Positively 4th Street. It is a great climb but quite short...25 feet tops....

Protection

Standard small rack.... Tree at top of small buttress anchor.

Photos

A short pitch that can be made a bit longer with enjoyable moderate climbing by climbing the small rotten roof behind the tree, once you get to the ledge and follow a left-facing corner/crack to the walk off for stuff like Pony Express. Oct 8, 2012
Joshinator
Longmont, Colorado
  5.7
Joshinator   Longmont, Colorado
  5.7
Great climb, but like most say, it really is too short. I would caution beginner leaders that the gear is quite small throughout, though you can find spots for bigger nuts and even a #1 BD. Still, everything is solid and as long as you have a few small nuts and small cams you should be able to sew it up. Mar 11, 2012
grant.rudd
boulder, CO
grant.rudd   boulder, CO
Very reminiscent of a gym route, with good pro all the way up. I found it to take small nuts and a small cam. +1 to a great begninner lead. My first Eldo 5.7 on lead, although it didnt feel like one. Feb 4, 2009
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
Fun climb. Plus from the tree anchor you can traverse a few feet south and build a trad anchor to top rope Positively Fourth Street with if no one in your party is feeling up to leading that route. You can also back up your anchor with a long sling to the tree. When you're done simply take down your anchor and walk off carefully to the north. Apr 22, 2008
Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
  5.7
Chris Zeller   Boulder, CO
  5.7
I think the 5.7 rating is appropriate. A fun steep climb with lots of jugs. Walk off is easy. A good beginner place. It's too short though. Apr 3, 2008
Mark Cushman
Cumming, GA
 
Mark Cushman   Cumming, GA
 
Needs to be longer, but a good route if you are already in the area. Mar 8, 2008
Merlin
Grand Junction
 
Merlin   Grand Junction
 
This is a good route for people breaking into Eldo 7s. It can be totally sewn up with a red Alien, a number 1 BD, and a set of nuts. It offered me good practice at placing gear under slightly grippy circumstances. Mar 9, 2007
This route also has value for the aspiring soloist. Short with postive holds and a simple walk off. May 23, 2003
I thought this was a fun route and my first Eldo 5.7 lead. I even took a lead fall (I know, I suck), but the pro is amazing, so it was fine. Defintely a good place to start leading 5.7's. And it's even vertical for a while. Sep 30, 2002
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
Michael Komarnitsky   Seattle, WA  
I'll second the great beginner lead.... short, but you could probably put a dozen pieces in it nonetheless... Apr 14, 2002
There is one move on it that is MAYBE a 5.7, otherwise I would give it more like a 5.5. Rossiter gives this one a star, I'm not sure why. However, this would be a great route for beginners that want to set up a top rope. Hike around to the left and carefully follow the top of the rock around to the right to a tree with slings. Jan 1, 2001