Type: Trad, TR, 25 ft
FA: Erickson and Walsh, 1970
Page Views: 3,037 total · 14/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


135 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a nice steep crack with lots of face holds just left of Positively 4th Street. It is a great climb but quite short...25 feet tops....

Protection

Standard small rack.... Tree at top of small buttress anchor.

Photos

There is one move on it that is MAYBE a 5.7, otherwise I would give it more like a 5.5. Rossiter gives this one a star, I'm not sure why. However, this would be a great route for beginners that want to set up a top rope. Hike around to the left and carefully follow the top of the rock around to the right to a tree with slings. Jan 1, 2001
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
Michael Komarnitsky   Seattle, WA  
I'll second the great beginner lead.... short, but you could probably put a dozen pieces in it nonetheless... Apr 14, 2002
I thought this was a fun route and my first Eldo 5.7 lead. I even took a lead fall (I know, I suck), but the pro is amazing, so it was fine. Defintely a good place to start leading 5.7's. And it's even vertical for a while. Sep 30, 2002
This route also has value for the aspiring soloist. Short with postive holds and a simple walk off. May 23, 2003
Merlin
Grand Junction
 
Merlin   Grand Junction
 
This is a good route for people breaking into Eldo 7s. It can be totally sewn up with a red Alien, a number 1 BD, and a set of nuts. It offered me good practice at placing gear under slightly grippy circumstances. Mar 9, 2007
Mark Cushman
Cumming, GA
 
Mark Cushman   Cumming, GA
 
Needs to be longer, but a good route if you are already in the area. Mar 8, 2008
Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
  5.7
Chris Zeller   Boulder, CO
  5.7
I think the 5.7 rating is appropriate. A fun steep climb with lots of jugs. Walk off is easy. A good beginner place. It's too short though. Apr 3, 2008
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
Fun climb. Plus from the tree anchor you can traverse a few feet south and build a trad anchor to top rope Positively Fourth Street with if no one in your party is feeling up to leading that route. You can also back up your anchor with a long sling to the tree. When you're done simply take down your anchor and walk off carefully to the north. Apr 22, 2008
grant.rudd
boulder, CO
grant.rudd   boulder, CO
Very reminiscent of a gym route, with good pro all the way up. I found it to take small nuts and a small cam. +1 to a great begninner lead. My first Eldo 5.7 on lead, although it didnt feel like one. Feb 4, 2009
Joshinator
Longmont, Colorado
  5.7
Joshinator   Longmont, Colorado
  5.7
Great climb, but like most say, it really is too short. I would caution beginner leaders that the gear is quite small throughout, though you can find spots for bigger nuts and even a #1 BD. Still, everything is solid and as long as you have a few small nuts and small cams you should be able to sew it up. Mar 11, 2012
Greg Miller
my truck
Greg Miller   my truck
A short pitch that can be made a bit longer with enjoyable moderate climbing by climbing the small rotten roof behind the tree, once you get to the ledge and follow a left-facing corner/crack to the walk off for stuff like Pony Express. Oct 8, 2012