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Xanadu

Name: Xanadu
Rating: 3.5

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express

L › R R › L A › Z

	Air Mail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Backslash T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Barbie Doll Arete, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Bit by Bit T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Bottlenecks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Clean Dan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Coffee Break with Joe T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Cold Turkey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Coniferous Types T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Crazy Fingers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
	Cruising Lane T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Detour, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Doc's Little Brother T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Dr. Michael Solar T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Duh Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Early Bird Special T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Fine Line T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Five Fang Overhang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Fork in the Road T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Formula, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Foxtrot T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Funeral March T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Hang Ten T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Henry Chinaski T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Highway 61 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Inverted Vee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Iron Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Kashmir T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Kubla Khan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Lady Fingers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lunar Avenue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
	Lunar Lander T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Masterbator's Edge, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Milk and Honey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Milk Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	MRJR (aka MB III) T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
	Parallels T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Pool of Blood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Positively Fourth Street T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Rhadamanthus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	River Of Darkness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Road Narrows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sign of the Cross T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Snail Mail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Srinagar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Tampon T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Tango T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Tanqueray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Terminal Velocity T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Texas Two-Step T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
	Three Lane Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
	Tickle, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Toprope Right of Formula TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Trip Itch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Tryptich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Whatever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Willow World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Working Class Hero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	X T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Xanadu T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Zap Snack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Zip Code T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

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Type:	Trad, 115 ft (35 m) Fixed Hardware (2)
FA:	Brad Gilbert, Jim Michael, Dan Hare, 1974
Page Views:	13,455 total · 55/month
Shared By:	Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.

Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

A thin, one pitch corner which felt harder to me than other 5.10a pitches in the area because it is more sustained. Hike up the West Ridge trail to a point where it levels out, just past a prominent gully (and shortly before the routes Purple Haze and Chockstone). Identify 2 thin, opposing corners which start 40 ft. or so above the ground, lean to the right, and contain a couple of small trees. Xanadu takes the right of these two corners (the left facing one); moving into the left corner in the vicinity of a small tree is a similarly graded variation. Wander up nondescript, slightly runout rock and about 5.8 to gain the dihedral, and climb the beautiful thin crack in the back to a broken ledge and a 2-bolt anchor. You can rappel with a 60 meter rope to the right (uphill of the rope), but watch the ends. With a 70 you can rappel or lower more comfortably although there still won't be much rope to spare, if any.

2019 edit: most of the chalk these days seems to be in the left corner up high.

Protection

Standard rack to a #2 camalot with an emphasis on small cams and nuts; 2 ea. .75 & 1 camalots are helpful (though not essential) in the first 2/3 of the route in the larger pods, however.