Type: Trad, 115 ft (35 m) Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Brad Gilbert, Jim Michael, Dan Hare, 1974
Page Views: 14,466 total · 57/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


A thin, one pitch corner which felt harder to me than other 5.10a pitches in the area because it is more sustained. Hike up the West Ridge trail to a point where it levels out, just past a prominent gully (and shortly before the routes Purple Haze and Chockstone). Identify 2 thin, opposing corners which start 40 ft. or so above the ground, lean to the right, and contain a couple of small trees. Xanadu takes the right of these two corners (the left facing one); moving into the left corner in the vicinity of a small tree is a similarly graded variation. Wander up nondescript, slightly runout rock and about 5.8 to gain the dihedral, and climb the beautiful thin crack in the back to a broken ledge and a 2-bolt anchor. You can rappel with a 60 meter rope to the right (uphill of the rope), but watch the ends. With a 70 you can rappel or lower more comfortably although there still won't be much rope to spare, if any.

2019 edit: most of the chalk these days seems to be in the left corner up high.


Standard rack to a #2 camalot with an emphasis on small cams and nuts; 2 ea. .75 & 1 camalots are helpful (though not essential) in the first 2/3 of the route in the larger pods, however.