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> West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony…
Xanadu
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Type: |
Trad, 115 ft
Fixed Hardware
(2) |
FA: | Brad Gilbert, Jim Michael, Dan Hare, 1974 |
Page Views: | 10,799 total · 51/month |
Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
2018 Rattlesnake Gulch area closures, effective immediately. The closures are to protect nesting golden eagles in the park.
cpw.state.co.us/aboutus/Pag…
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
cpw.state.co.us/aboutus/Pag…
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
A thin, one pitch corner which felt harder to me than other 5.10a pitches in the area because it is more sustained. Hike up the West Ridge trail to a point where it levels out, just past a prominent gully (and shortly before the route Chockstone). Identify 2 thin, opposing corners which start 40 ft. or so above the ground, lean to the right, and contain a couple of small trees. Xanadu takes the right of these two corners (the left facing one). Venture up nondescript rock to gain the dihedral, and climb the beautiful thin crack in the back to a broken ledge and a 2-bolt anchor. 60m rope required for the rappel.
Tucson, AZ
Around Boulder, CO
If you want more length and variety, finish by doing "Whiplash" up and left of the top- a fingers-to-hands crack through a roof. Jan 17, 2003
Colorado
Boulder, Colorado
Although the dihedral at the top of this climb is certainly the most exciting part, I felt that the hardest move was about half way up the climb in a small left facing dihedral. There were three small thin finger ledges on the face with thin footing. A grunting pull on the two lower ledges gained a higher precarious footing, then a reach for the third finger ledge, stand up and jam your hand into a beauty of a crack that opens up in the dihedral. I liked that move so much that I fell the first time so I could do it again (of course that's what they all say).
Appearently, at the top of the climb, the right facing, overhung, much larger dihedral that is left of the main route is supposed to be 5.9. It gave my climbing buddy such fits that he backed down and then cleaned the standard 5.10a. Goes to show that when faced with a fork in the road, choose the more difficult path. Mar 8, 2004
Boulder, Colorado
Boulder, CO
Awesome route! Oct 8, 2006
Las Vegas, Nv
Denver, CO
Boulder, CO
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Bend, OR
Our 70m rope just had a few feet left on the ground (it might be cut a bit short), so use caution when descending.... Oct 21, 2008
Tony M Feb 22, 2009
Longtuckles
colorado
Fort Collins, Colorado