Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: C. Griffith, 1979 or ?Charlie Fowler
Page Views: 1,324 total · 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 11, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Go up the West Ridge past The Cirque of the Cracks. As the trail flattens out, just before reaching the Xanadu area, there is a very small, short section of reasonably solid rock. (See picture) Kashmir is a thin seam & crack that goes for 30' to a large tree, from which you can rappel or find a walk-off.

Protection

The protection is reasonable, if placed in the crack and to the left of the crack. Small cams and nuts are the primary gear. The route is short and will only require 3-5 placements.

Photos

This route may be very short but is very high quality. Cool moves on great stone. No filler. I'd maybe give it two stars. Certainly I'd recommend it to anyone looking for a high quality 5.11 pitch. Feb 17, 2002
Kirk Woerner
  5.11a
Kirk Woerner  
  5.11a
Good moves. Too bad it's a one move wonder. Mar 16, 2004
I thought this was a real difficult lead. It's one of those where you have to put the gear where your fingers are. More fun as a TR. Aug 18, 2004
Jeff G.
Lyons
  5.11b
Jeff G.   Lyons
  5.11b
Good pitch, just a little short. The crux is pretty difficult and consists of 2-3 moves. I had a #6 HB offset to protect the crux moves then a yellow Alien in the obvious slot up higher. Those were my only pieces on the pitch. Another nut is possible but takes up your hand hold. Dec 11, 2004
XOG
XOG  
Curious about the FA attribution because in my 80s guidebook (Rossiter) it says this is a Charlie Fowler route?

Big difference going straight up using only the thin cracks versus moving in from the left up higher. Although contrived, several high quality hard moves in a short length, and a good one to do if all the popular climbs you hiked up for are taken, no waiting lines on this one!

The commitment factor and exposure are high though. Make sure to bring your headlamp. Nov 23, 2006
Brian Adzima
San Francisco
Brian Adzima   San Francisco
Passerby: "You know it is crowded when someone is on Kashmir." Jan 27, 2008
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
 
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
 
I took this climb bat the slung tree and through the dirty dihedral which was actually a little scary but about 5.8. I think it's worth the adventure. Jan 27, 2014