Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: M. Brooks, J. Martin, 1982
Page Views: 1,094 total · 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 3, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

10 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


This is an overlooked route. I really enjoyed it and it was different and out of character for Eldo. The black corner here is not "dirty" it's in fact a hard patina!

This route lies in the obscure Kashmir area. It is best found by passing the Cirque of the Cracks, landmarking via the last obvious corner, "The Formula" (fixed pins and a fixed wire) continue up the hill and right to an obvious black corner with a steep "tips" crack section 7 meters up.

Climb the corner on good holds and good moves with good gear (small Aliens or similar), passing the 5.10a crux to a good rest before finishing on decent jams and larger gear.

Finish up and right to a huge tree with a sling and ring (just replaced). Rap to descend.


A standard light rack with some 0.3-0.75" cams. You get overhead pro for the crux sequence, finished with the pro at knee level. It can be sewn up if desired. (Edit to add): some people say that the gear might pull. I was not too worried about this, but it apparently happened to someone. Read the comments below.


Jay Eggleston
Jay Eggleston   Denver
This climb looks junky, but it actually has good moves. It is worth doing once for sure. Dec 3, 2010
Sarah Meiser
Boulder, CO
Sarah Meiser   Boulder, CO
BEWARE THIS IS NOT A G RATED CLIMB! Sure, you can "sew it up" before pulling the crux moves, BUT even though the placements may look good, they're not necessarily going to hold a fall. My partner took an 18 foot groundfall when all 3 pieces he placed up there blew from a minor slip at the crux. A somewhat blindly placed nut in the crack at the top of the small roof and a small, purple Metolius cam that looked like a textbook placement blew immediately from the 1-2 foot fall (these pieces were at chest/stomach level, the nut may have slipped out from the top as he was pulling the moves?, not sure what happened with the cam). Then a blue Alien in the good crack about 5 feet below only held for a fraction of a second before blowing as well. From the looks of that piece, we suspect the rock failed, not the cam. Miraculously my partner was OK after landing on a rock on his head at the base of the climb. His helmet saved his life no doubt. Very lucky. Aug 24, 2012
Clint Locks
Clint Locks   Boulder
Consider Sarah's comments before launching off, but I thought this climb offered quite good protection. Really fun! The final few feet was all loose rock and steep duff. Barely worth noting, though, since that's the norm for all the Kashmir-area pitches. Apr 28, 2013
Ed Krejcik
Broomfield, CO
Ed Krejcik   Broomfield, CO
I have to agree with Clint's comments. I did this route after reading the comments here. Personally, I found the pro to be bomber. I had a yellow (#3?) Metolius Mastercam at the start of the tips crack and a blindly placed yellow C3 further out. I did not fall though, so the pro was not fulled tested, but it did give them a tug. The crack edge is sharp all the way up, which makes for very positive holds. Climb is in a cramped, dirty setting, but it is worth doing as there won't be a line. Oct 31, 2016