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Routes in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express

Air Mail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Backslash T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Barbie Doll Arete, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Bit by Bit T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bottlenecks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clean Dan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Coffee Break with Joe T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Cold Turkey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coniferous Types T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crazy Fingers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cruising Lane T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Detour, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Doc's Little Brother T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dr. Michael Solar T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Duh Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Early Bird Special T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fine Line T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five Fang Overhang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fork in the Road T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Formula, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Foxtrot T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Funeral March T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hang Ten T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Henry Chinaski T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Highway 61 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Inverted Vee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Iron Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kashmir T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kubla Khan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lady Fingers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lunar Avenue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Lunar Lander T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
MRJR (aka MB III) T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Masterbator's Edge, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Milk Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Milk and Honey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Parallels T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pool of Blood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Positively Fourth Street T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rhadamanthus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
River Of Darkness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Road Narrows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sign of the Cross T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snail Mail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Srinagar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tampon T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tango T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tanqueray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Terminal Velocity T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Texas Two-Step T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Three Lane Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Tickle, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Toprope Right of Formula TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trip Itch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tryptich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whatever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Willow World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Working Class Hero T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
X T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Xanadu T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zap Snack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zip Code T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad Fixed Hardware (7)
FA: Mark Rolofson, 1980
Page Views: 195 total · 1/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Oct 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

It's hard to miss this route when walking up to Rincon from the Cirque of Cracks on the West Ridge. Located on the prow just left of the Pool Of Blood dihedral is The Formula. The equation is this: a burly one move wonder over the roof into the dihedral + stemming to the upper roof + turning it onto the slab = an exciting pump. The pin at the start is a bit flexy, but its possible to place a #2 Rock just above it.... Rap off of slings around a small tree. I think the route is worthy of a new bolt anchor over the upper roof!

Addendum: there is a new bolt anchor.

Protection

Sm/med nuts, 0.75"-.4" cams, 3.5" piece (equipped with 2 pins). Rap slings on high tree (junk!).

Photos

Chris Archer
  5.12b
Chris Archer  
  5.12b
The 2-3 move boulder problem seemed as hard or harder than wendego, apple strudel, or the contest. An interesting finish protected by old knifeblades, keeps you on your toes. The anchor, slings off two small trees, should be replaced. Nov 30, 2003
Lance Cockwood
  5.12a
Lance Cockwood  
  5.12a
Great route Feb 12, 2004
StanL
Louisville, CO
  5.12a
StanL   Louisville, CO
  5.12a
Powerful, technical crux down low, fun stemming up high. Some questionable rock in a few places, mostly on the upper roof. Thanks for installing the bolted anchor! Feb 23, 2008
Mark Rolofson
  5.12a/b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12a/b
Here is some first ascent history. I established this climb on Feb. 18, 1981. There were originally 5 pitons. Two side by side knifeblades to protect the crux start & 3 poor upwardly driven pins in the .10d roof. I didn't trust any of the upper 3 pitons & finally removed the worst of the upper 2 pins because the route was controversial for the number of pins used. The rest of the climb was protected on RPs up the dihedral & a #1.5, 4 Friend, & 5 RP past the upper pins. The climb was originally .11d because the foothold at the base of the dihedral was flat & better. Then much of it broke away making the crux start harder at .12a/b. I used to do this climb often. It has been many years since the 1980s that I was last on this route. I wouldn't trust the first piton anymore. Apr 17, 2015