Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Chris Weidner, Matt Samet
Page Views: 100 total · 7/month
Shared By: Dave Holliday on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is an obscure, short route that's a nice diversion from the heavily traveled routes in the area. Start from a sloping ledge right below the crack (you may want to have the belayer at a better stance about ten feet lower), plug in a couple of good pieces, and make crux moves to get going. Continue to where the crack peters out and climb face holds to a slab, and easily clamber up to the tree at the top of the route.

The rock is solid throughout, and the gear is good and plentiful.

A note about the rating: this gets 10d in the guidebook, but my partner and I thought it was easier than that.

(The route name and first ascent party were obtained from Steve Levin's excellent guidebook to the canyon.)

Location

Hike up the West Ridge trail past the Positively Fourth Street area to where the trail descends slightly before getting to the Parallels area. Look closely, and you'll see a short buttress with two cracks on its right side. This route is the left of the two cracks.

Protection

Standard Eldo rack up to a #2 Camalot. An extra #0.4 and #0.5 Camalot wouldn't hurt. At the top, there's a tree with cord from which to rappel.

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