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Routes in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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Air Mail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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And Cream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Backslash T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Barbie Doll Arete, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Bit by Bit T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Bottlenecks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Clean Dan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Coffee Break with Joe T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Cold Turkey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Coniferous Types T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cookies T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Crazy Fingers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Cruising Lane T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Detour, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Doc's Little Brother T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dr. Michael Solar T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Duh Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Early Bird Special T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fine Line T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Five Fang Overhang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Fork in the Road T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Formula, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Foxtrot T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Funeral March T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hang Ten T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Henry Chinaski T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Highway 61 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Inverted Vee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Kashmir T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Kubla Khan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lady Fingers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lunar Avenue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R |
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Lunar Lander T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Masterbator's Edge, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Milk and Honey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Milk Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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MRJR (aka MB III) T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Parallels T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pool of Blood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Positively Fourth Street T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rhadamanthus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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River Of Darkness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Road Narrows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sign of the Cross T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Snail Mail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Srinagar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tampon T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Tango T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Tanqueray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Terminal Velocity T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Texas Two-Step T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Three Lane Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Tickle, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Toprope Right of Formula TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Trip Itch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Tryptich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Whatever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Willow World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Working Class Hero T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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X T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Xanadu T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Zap Snack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Joseffa Meir, Tony Bubb, 2001 |
| Page Views: | 753 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 16, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Refer to the directions to "P3 of Working Class Hero" to locate the "Upper Construction Zone" buttress. This is in the general vicinity of rock above Positively Fourth Street.
At the very left-hand side of the Upper Construction Zone, a large evergreen stands at the base of a rotten looking wall, just left of a rotten, shrub-choked, left-facing dihedral. This wall is even worse than it looks. The cracks directly behind the tree on the wall which become three parallel cracks (within reach of each other) are called "Three Lane Highway (5.8, S)"
Three Lane Highway is a route which starts from under the shade of the branches of the big pine, and climbs the wall up and right through a spot where the branches to do reach the wall. From there, the route moves up and slightly left toward 3 parallel cracks 20' up. Climb these and stay on them (do not go left, or the rock is even worse) to the top. After 60 feet of rotten rock and poor protection, you will top out immediately below the rap station we added to the tree above.
To descend: At the top of the vertical rock, you reach a shelf directly below a large pine tree, at which there is a solid fixed rap station. This station is presently 2 independent tied slings around a solid tree and a single leaver biner. It needs a quick link or two added or to replace the single biner present. Rap from this to the base of the Upper Construction Zone, then walk off in reverse of the description as for approach #3.
At the very left-hand side of the Upper Construction Zone, a large evergreen stands at the base of a rotten looking wall, just left of a rotten, shrub-choked, left-facing dihedral. This wall is even worse than it looks. The cracks directly behind the tree on the wall which become three parallel cracks (within reach of each other) are called "Three Lane Highway (5.8, S)"
Three Lane Highway is a route which starts from under the shade of the branches of the big pine, and climbs the wall up and right through a spot where the branches to do reach the wall. From there, the route moves up and slightly left toward 3 parallel cracks 20' up. Climb these and stay on them (do not go left, or the rock is even worse) to the top. After 60 feet of rotten rock and poor protection, you will top out immediately below the rap station we added to the tree above.
To descend: At the top of the vertical rock, you reach a shelf directly below a large pine tree, at which there is a solid fixed rap station. This station is presently 2 independent tied slings around a solid tree and a single leaver biner. It needs a quick link or two added or to replace the single biner present. Rap from this to the base of the Upper Construction Zone, then walk off in reverse of the description as for approach #3.
Protection
A Standard Eldo rack can protect the route in theory, but the rock quality in terms of gear and holds demand a VS rating. Your belayer should take cover behind the huge belay tree at the base and wear a helmet. My partner and I both did the route withoug breaking holds, but we consider ourselves lucky. I did not test the gear, nor would I care to.
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