Avg: 2 from 10 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft (30 m)|
|FA:||Alec Sharp, BITD|
|Page Views:||643 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||david goldstein on Jul 20, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
This climb is the left of two parallel, hanging, right-facing corners just to the right of Xanadu. This corner is so narrow that if you fall off you will probably end up on Tanqueray.
Start below intermittent cracks which run up to the Tanqueray corner, about 20' right of Xanadu's start. Climb cracks and face for about 25' (5.9s) to the base of the Tanqueray corner. (Note to attentive CB readers: I called this section 5.10 in the Tanqueray write up; sue me.) From the start of Tanqueray, traverse left into the KK corner. Take the corner to the top. The crux is about 10' up where the cracks in the corner bottom out and seemed to me a harder and less scary version of the Windy crux exit moves.
Probably best to avoid this route, or Xanadu, when they are enfolded with sunny spots of greenery. As for Alph, the sacred river, the less said the better.
The crux involves using a flake on the right edge of the right wall for both gear (#7 Rock) and a finger lock (next time I'll tape my right pinkie). A good rest can be had by stepping left at the bottom of the crux. By the time you complete the crux, your foot is on the flake. If you blew the last move of the crux, you would fall onto the Tanqueray slab with unpredictable consequences.
Probably fair to call this pitch S-. [I took another look at this route and decided it is not S. With a competent belay, a fall from the crux should not result in hitting the Taqueray slab.]