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Routes in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express

Air Mail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Backslash T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Barbie Doll Arete, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Bit by Bit T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bottlenecks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clean Dan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Coffee Break with Joe T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Cold Turkey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coniferous Types T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crazy Fingers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cruising Lane T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Detour, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Doc's Little Brother T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dr. Michael Solar T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Duh Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Early Bird Special T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fine Line T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five Fang Overhang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fork in the Road T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Formula, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Foxtrot T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Funeral March T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hang Ten T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Henry Chinaski T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Highway 61 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Inverted Vee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Iron Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kashmir T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kubla Khan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lady Fingers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lunar Avenue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Lunar Lander T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
MRJR (aka MB III) T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Masterbator's Edge, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Milk Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Milk and Honey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Parallels T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pool of Blood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Positively Fourth Street T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rhadamanthus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
River Of Darkness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Road Narrows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sign of the Cross T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snail Mail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Srinagar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tampon T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tango T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tanqueray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Terminal Velocity T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Texas Two-Step T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Three Lane Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Tickle, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Toprope Right of Formula TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trip Itch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tryptich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whatever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Willow World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Working Class Hero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
X T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Xanadu T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zap Snack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zip Code T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: John Sherman, 1980
Page Views: 1,059 total, 7/month
Shared By: Joseph Proulx on Oct 8, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is the shallow, left-facing dihedral on the face between Duh Dihedral and Pool of Blood. Start from a small ledge with a smaller tree (bottom left of photo) and climb the dihedral to where PoB meets DD. The climbing is easier than it looks, but the moves are tricky to work out.

A pitch of climbing like this would merit three stars. It's short but very fun climbing.

Protection

Climb this with a TR on the Duh Diheral chains. On lead, you'll probably want a few small to medium cams that you wouldn't need on Duh Dihedral .

Photos

Ben Burnett
Colorado
  5.9+ R
Ben Burnett   Colorado
  5.9+ R
At the ledge, jog left to the top of Pool's flake for a move and then continue up to the top. A full pitch and independent line (on TR). Mar 4, 2012
Robert Buswold
Northglenn, CO
 
Robert Buswold   Northglenn, CO
 
I did this one as a TR from the anchors for Duh Dihedral. The crux move seemed very hard for me, even harder than Pool of Blood to the left. Feb 26, 2012
Dave Pilot
Boulder, CO
  5.7 R
Dave Pilot   Boulder, CO
  5.7 R
The pro is small but it seemed adequate. One needs a good rack of micro stoppers. There seemed to be a good placement at every good stance and I never felt run out. However, that said, if you're not very confident and capable at the grade, TR it. Oct 27, 2008
Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
 
Chris Zeller   Boulder, CO
 
The pro on this one is very poor. Easier to TR from Duh Dihedral. I think this is a sandbag at 5.7 maybe 5.8 with one 5.9 move before you merge with Duh Dihedral. Apr 3, 2008
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Worth climbing once. Jan 25, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Comment as was attached to 'Pool Of Blood' (neighboring route):

By: Tony Bubb On: 11.5.2001 Comments: This route can be finished directly from the top of the flake to the tree on some small holds and seams. This is probably 5.11- and there really is no gear, so a TR is advisable. (Bubb, Donson winter 2000?) Nov 29, 2005
Randy Carmichael
Boulder, CO
Randy Carmichael   Boulder, CO
I think the pro basically sucks on this one. Emphasis on small RPs. TR from DD is probably the best option. Aug 8, 2005