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> West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
Terminal Velocity
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.1 from 132 votes
Routes in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
Air Mail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Backslash T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Barbie Doll Arete, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R | |
Bit by Bit T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a | |
Bottlenecks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Clean Dan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 | |
Coffee Break with Joe T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c | |
Cold Turkey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Coniferous Types T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Crazy Fingers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 | |
Cruising Lane T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R | |
Detour, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R | |
Doc's Little Brother T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Dr. Michael Solar T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Duh Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Early Bird Special T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Fine Line T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Five Fang Overhang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Fork in the Road T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Formula, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Foxtrot T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Funeral March T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Hang Ten T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c | |
Henry Chinaski T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Highway 61 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Inverted Vee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Iron Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Kashmir T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Kubla Khan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Lady Fingers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Lunar Avenue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R | |
Lunar Lander T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c | |
MRJR (aka MB III) T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R | |
Masterbator's Edge, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R | |
Milk Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Milk and Honey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R | |
Parallels T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Pool of Blood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Positively Fourth Street T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Rhadamanthus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
River Of Darkness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Road Narrows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Sign of the Cross T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Snail Mail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R | |
Srinagar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Tampon T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R | |
Tango T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Tanqueray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R | |
Terminal Velocity T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Texas Two-Step T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R | |
Three Lane Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X | |
Tickle, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 | |
Toprope Right of Formula TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b | |
Trip Itch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Tryptich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Whatever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R | |
Willow World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Working Class Hero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
X T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Xanadu T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Zap Snack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Zip Code T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
Type: | Trad, 80 ft |
FA: | M. Rolofson and Alfredo Len, 11/29/1980 |
Page Views: | 5,551 total, 29/month |
Shared By: | david goldstein on Dec 31, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Seasonal Closures
Details
Seasonal Closures (3/22/17, effective immediately)
Shirttail Peak is closed to all activities, including rock climbing, due to Golden Eagles nesting in the area. Trespassing constitutesâ a federal offense and violators will be cited. Eagles are sensitive to disturbance caused by human presence and may abandon their nest and young as a result.â
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
From the BCC email: Millenium Crag is closed.
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Shirttail Peak is closed to all activities, including rock climbing, due to Golden Eagles nesting in the area. Trespassing constitutesâ a federal offense and violators will be cited. Eagles are sensitive to disturbance caused by human presence and may abandon their nest and young as a result.â
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
From the BCC email: Millenium Crag is closed.
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This route is the obvious, left-facing corner just left of "Handcrack" on upper West Ridge. The crux is a thin section about 20 feet up that is protected by small RPs. The last 20', a beautiful stemming corner, is also fairly challenging but has much more reassuring protection. Once above this corner, traverse left 5' to the rap slings used by Handcrack. This quality pitch is somewhat diminished by huge ledge between the hard sections and the fact that at some points, including the middle of the crux, it's possible to escape right to Handcrack.Note that this pitch is easily top roped after doing 5.10 HC.
Photos
17 Comments
Thanks for the comment
Slow down, you've reached your posting limit
The upper dihedral can be climbed using holds on the arĂȘte to the right (5.10b) or climbed in the dihedral, avoiding the arete (5.10d/11a).
After our first ascent, I normally led the route as one pitch. Most of the gear on the 5.11 climbing is bomber (even before small cams). It gets exciting hanging on a jug at the top of the bulging section where a #2 RP protects hard moves to get stood on this jug. Then the climbing eases off, but gear is still tiny. I remember using a sling made of nylon shoelace that would fit behind a small horn placed while standing on the jug. Jun 21, 2015
Boulder, CO
Fishing in the #3 wire takes a bit of time, but the hold you're on is good, and once you get it in there, it's Bomber. It's nice to have that piece @ your waist making the 5.11 moves. Apr 11, 2014
CO
A helpful note for those aspiring to lead this gem: there is a great RP placement (largest size RP) just above the sketchy flake above the crux. It fiddles in a horizontal and hangs out halfway but is in solid rock and should hold a fall.
If the run out above the crux has stopped you from leading this, find this RP and you will feel much more comfortable on the sharp end. It needs to be a BD RP though because of the accelerated taper. A nut won't do.
Great route, looking forward to more projects like it. Oct 15, 2012
But if you want to make this climb more serious than it needs to be I guess you could avoid this.
Except for the gear fiddling issues on the lower crux section, the hardest climbing, to me, did seem to be the upper corner. Enjoy! Nov 13, 2008
Flagstaff, AZ
Sacramento, CA
I'll agree with a previous post: I also felt the pump from the first section while doing the upper half, but it is easier (10) and protects well with stoppers.
I think its really satisfying to do a route with this blend of technical moves and technical protection -- that's why it merits 2 stars in my book (despite the big, momentum-breaking ledge). Dec 22, 2003
Alfredo Len alfredolen@terra.com.pe Oct 16, 2002
Boulder, CO
Around Boulder, CO
Around Boulder, CO
I've climbed Terminal Velocity at least 5 times. Although it was not always me leading, I feel like I know the route pretty well; it definitely deserved to be rated S. The books reflect the VS grade and I am somewhat surprised that this review does not reflectsome caution. The crux can be protected by a nest of small nuts, although it is sure pumpy getting them in. Although it's not the crux, you could hit the ledge from the upper 1/4 (10d/11a) if you are not attentive- lots of rope out on a undulating path and a slight distance from your gear with a ledge lurking below.
It seems to me that T.V. is very height dependent on the upper 1/2 because the footholds either do or don't allow you to reach the good hands. I think that's the crux. Feb 15, 2002