Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Jim Erickson and Jim Hofman, 1969
Page Views: 1,204 total · 6/month
Shared By: S. Kimball on Jan 6, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Much better than fowl lunchmeat and stiff for the grade. Scramble right from Positively 4th St. and belay from an evergreen. Up friable 5.8 chimney (RP and slung spike protection) onto a great jug then ledge. Lieback a sharp, pebbly, right-facing corner seen 20 feet. left of Air Mail. Turn into a crystalline, thin crack with nice locks and hand jams, and some steepness. Finish up easy but loose corners to large tree with rap rings.

Rappel 140 feet or rope off toward the Rincon.

Nowadays, this would be F10 on the Sinks Bar jukebox.

Protection

Standard Eldo with mid-size RP and #3.5 and #4 Friend.

Photos

Gregger Man
Broomfield, CO
 
Gregger Man   Broomfield, CO
 
Very loose, sharp stuff. Double-check your hand and footholds or you may send down some large missiles. [2004]

Climbed it again Jan 2013. Not as bad as I had first thought. Aug 15, 2004
kyle lefkoff
  5.9+
kyle lefkoff  
  5.9+
I agree with Kimball: This is a nice climb, with the usual loose section (down low in this case). Crusher and I split it into two short pitches from the base, since there's a good ledge half way. In this style, the P1 chimney (5.8) protects with a 3.5 Friend. The P2 crack (5.9+) is solid and well protected at the crux with a fixed pin and gear. Sep 30, 2004
Mike Munger
Boulder, Colorado
Mike Munger   Boulder, Colorado
Good quality climbing in the crux corner. The rap rings weren't there May 2007 but it's easy to walk off left from the next ledge up. May 12, 2007
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
Don't sling the horn mentioned in the description! It is ready to come off. A #3 Camalot in a pod above and left of the horn seems adequate. Nov 10, 2009
Clint Locks
Boulder
  5.9+ R
Clint Locks   Boulder
  5.9+ R
Jay's got a good point, but I say sling it anyway, and back it up with his suggestion. Who knows--it just might hold. There are ways to avoid putting all your weight on the horn in question while moving through that section. Mar 7, 2010
303scott
  5.9+
303scott  
  5.9+
This should be on anyone's tour de obscure in Eldo. If you've climbed enough in Eldo to be searching for obscure routes, nothing on this one will cause you concern and there is some really nice crack climbing above the chimney. Also, it looks like someone is putting up anchors for a new route that will also service this one, which will make the last 50 feet of 5.3 scrambling on loose rock unnecessary. Jan 28, 2013
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
The horn in the chimney is gone. There is a nice foot in its place. Mar 17, 2013
Aaron Lucas
  5.10a
Aaron Lucas  
  5.10a
Just for "fun", one can start at the base of Zip Code. Use the diagonal slab with small gear. This still puts one at the base of the chimney. Mar 10, 2014
Ralph Swansen
Denver CO
  5.9+
Ralph Swansen   Denver CO
  5.9+
This route can afford some more traffic. I thoroughly enjoyed it. Nov 12, 2016
Ed Krejcik
Broomfield, CO
 
Ed Krejcik   Broomfield, CO
 
The crux is very enjoyable and very well-protected. I did not see any anchors up at the top. Belayed off the big tree at the top. Be careful finishing this route after the crux section as there is tons of loose stuff everywhere. To descend from this route, continue up 5 feet past the big tree to the descent scramble used by Handcracker, scrambling off climber's left. Apr 9, 2017