Type: Trad
FA: Stuberg, Ruckgaber, Harrison, 1980
Page Views: 852 total · 4/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Jul 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


44 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The route is only mildly spicy and probably doesn't deserve the "s" rating, but nevertheless, take caution, it's not a good beginner 5.8. This is the face climb just left of Pos. 4th St --start up on good holds and place a good cam low and fiddle a small stopper (or offset nut--a straight-tapered RP or similar doesn't sit well) in a small crack above the flared seam. Now make the "spicy" move above this non-ideal nut, but look for a #2 Friend placement (not really in a continuous crack) when you get to a good rest. Move through the crux here (a lot more spicy if you only have the small nut a body length below your feet) and finish on good holds to the top. Some more small cams can be placed after the crux if you want. Walkoff to the north.

Protection

Friends from #0.5-2, (possible an offset), a No. 3 or 4 stopper, and a small micro cam or TCU.

Photos

Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.8 R
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.8 R
Pretty easy to just TR this route from the tree at the ledge above. Feb 24, 2008
Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
 
Chris Zeller   Boulder, CO
 
Fun route, felt about the same difficulty as Dr. Michael Solar to me. One hard move in the middle. Just bear right around the bulge and the holds are all there. Again, too short for a lead. Apr 3, 2008
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
Good enough gear on this one, but not great. Apr 18, 2010