Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Carl Harrison, Jim Stuberg, Chip Ruckgaber*, Sandy East, 1980
Page Views: 2,228 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 23, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Per Frances Fierst: This route is in the corner, just shy of Positively 4th Street. Head up past the popular Pony Express area. Climb the right-facing dihedral just before Positively 4th Street. Scramble a few feet up the boulders to belay at the base of the climb.

P1. The pitch is rated 5.8, but it feels pretty easy at the grade. Rests and stems are abundant, as well as positive holds to hang on while placing gear. The climbing was fun, airy, and being high on the West Ridge provides great views. As with all Eldo climbs, check that the rock is stable before yarding on it. Overall, a nice pitch for the grade. Not incredibly classic but a great, well-protected route if you are working up through the grades.

From P1, there are two descent options. One is to look to your left after you reach the first ledge with a small bush. There is a tree with rap slings just to your left. A 60m rope will get you to the ground. Otherwise you can proceed another 40 or so feet up to the major ledge system. Bring up your partner and scramble down towards the north. This drops you right on the West Ridge trail up hill from the start of the climb.

P2, Per Tony B: A medium-sized pine with no low branches makes a good belay to bring up the second and to start on the routes above, P2 of either Highway 61, Working Class Hero, or The Detour. Working Class Hero climbs the easiest line up about 70 feet of jumbled low angle rock to the next buttress just up and right from the belay trees.

P3, Per Tony B: Above the previous pitch above a horizontal rotten band lies a broad stack of huge, vertical flakes, about 50-60 feet tall and more than twice as wide. There are multiple dihedrals and cracks formed there. This section of rock is the upper Construction Zone; the routes (left to right) Three Lane Highway, Bottlenecks, Cruising Lane, P3 of Highway 61 (the massive, clean, right-facing dihedral, which is one of the best of the group), and just right of that, P3 of Working Class Hero, and then lastly, Road Narrows are all on this buttress. This pitch climbs the final crack and dihedral system, with a few pods that slow down the leader a bit despite its easy grade this climb is P3 (5.8). If you care to start off one move as for P3 but step to the right another 2 meters out over space, you will find yourself looking at an RP crack through a small overhang to and arete and crack system called 'Road Narrows ' the gem of the group, one with excellent movement.

Pitch 3 is a reasonable lead to be done on a light rack. It uses crack and dihedral technique to reach the top of the Upper Construction Zone buttress.

To descend from pitch 3: From the top of the vertical rock, you scramble up and left (W/NW) to a large pine tree, at which there is a solid fixed rap station. This station is presently 2 independent tied slings around a solid tree and a single leaver biner. It needs a quick link or two added or to replace the single biner present. Rap from this to the base of the Upper Construction Zone, then walk off in reverse of the description as for approach #3.

Eds. Note: This was originally submitted as distinct entries, but in this somewhat obscure area, these are the same route and/or minor variations of the route.

Protection

Standard Eldo rack, good gear. Per Frances Fierst: P1 ...[include] a #3 and #3.5 Camalot. Doubles in hand sizes are nice. The [pitch] takes lots of big stoppers.

Photos