Type: Trad, TR, 55 ft (17 m)
FA: Matt Samet, Wayne Crill
Page Views: 2,010 total · 11/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Oct 25, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

The route climbs the very overhanging (20 feet in 50) red/orange pillar tucked in a nook about 100 feet past Five Fang Overhang, before you come to the Inverted Vee, Crazy Fingers, etc. The formation looks sort of like a big finger.

Start on the right side of the nook and climb the obtuse corner to a small ledge; plug in gear here and then make a strenuous traverse left, then up, to the "Block," where you can clip a fixed Stopper (and plug in supplemental TCUs). The crux is on the very overhanging arete above, with a good nut around left protecting the exit.

We "headpointed" the route, but now that the gear placements are clean and the holds brushed, it's not unreasonable -- if you're willing to take falls -- to give 'er from the ground, though there are a couple of "no-falls" spots. The gear's all good once you get it in; it's just strenuous to place on this angle.

The name MRJR stands for Michael Reardon Junior — Michael and my last day climbing together was up on the West Ridge in March 2007, and we looked at this line on the way out, planning to try it together in autumn 2007. Michael went missing in Ireland that July. MRJR also references Michael's route MRSR, at Indian Cove, Joshua Tree, which he named in honor of his father and did as a free-solo FA (5.12a). It was a real pleasure to be able to come back to this route with Wayne as we continue to explore the endless "chossibilities" on Boulder's sandstone.

MB III is Masterbator's Edge III; the first "Edge" is described on this site and is just uphill by Duh Dihedral; and the second "Edge" (FA: Chris Weidner; 5.12 X), still unnamed, lies just up and right of MRJR. So if you've got your gritstone head on and want to tick the MB Trifecta, there you go -- it's yours for the taking.

Location Suggest change

100 feet north (uphill-ish) along the West Ridge Trail from Five Fang Overhang; or 75 feet south (downhill-ish) from Inverted Vee.

Protection Suggest change

We used lots of TCUs from Metolius #4 (red) on down, as well as small nuts. You'll need some long slings here and there, for rope drag, too.