Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 55 ft (17 m)|
|FA:||Matt Samet, Wayne Crill|
|Page Views:||1,509 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Pinklebear on Oct 25, 2008|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Start on the right side of the nook and climb the obtuse corner to a small ledge; plug in gear here and then make a strenuous traverse left, then up, to the "Block," where you can clip a fixed Stopper (and plug in supplemental TCUs). The crux is on the very overhanging arete above, with a good nut around left protecting the exit.
We "headpointed" the route, but now that the gear placements are clean and the holds brushed, it's not unreasonable -- if you're willing to take falls -- to give 'er from the ground, though there are a couple of "no-falls" spots. The gear's all good once you get it in; it's just strenuous to place on this angle.
The name MRJR stands for Michael Reardon Junior Michael and my last day climbing together was up on the West Ridge in March 2007, and we looked at this line on the way out, planning to try it together in autumn 2007. Michael went missing in Ireland that July. MRJR also references Michael's route MRSR, at Indian Cove, Joshua Tree, which he named in honor of his father and did as a free-solo FA (5.12a). It was a real pleasure to be able to come back to this route with Wayne as we continue to explore the endless "chossibilities" on Boulder's sandstone.
MB III is Masterbator's Edge III; the first "Edge" is described on this site and is just uphill by Duh Dihedral; and the second "Edge" (FA: Chris Weidner; 5.12 X), still unnamed, lies just up and right of MRJR. So if you've got your gritstone head on and want to tick the MB Trifecta, there you go -- it's yours for the taking.