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MRJR (aka MB III)

Name: MRJR (aka MB III)
Rating: 3.0

5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British R

Routes in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express

L › R R › L A › Z

	Air Mail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Backslash T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Barbie Doll Arete, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Bit by Bit T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Bottlenecks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Clean Dan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Coffee Break with Joe T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Cold Turkey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Coniferous Types T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Crazy Fingers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
	Cruising Lane T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Detour, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Doc's Little Brother T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Dr. Michael Solar T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Duh Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Early Bird Special T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Fine Line T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Five Fang Overhang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Fork in the Road T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Formula, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Foxtrot T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Funeral March T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Hang Ten T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Henry Chinaski T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Highway 61 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Inverted Vee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Iron Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Kashmir T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Kubla Khan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Lady Fingers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lunar Avenue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
	Lunar Lander T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Masterbator's Edge, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Milk and Honey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Milk Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	MRJR (aka MB III) T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
	Parallels T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Pool of Blood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Positively Fourth Street T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Rhadamanthus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	River Of Darkness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Road Narrows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sign of the Cross T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Snail Mail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Srinagar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Tampon T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Tango T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Tanqueray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Terminal Velocity T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Texas Two-Step T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
	Three Lane Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
	Tickle, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Toprope Right of Formula TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Trip Itch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Tryptich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Whatever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Willow World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Working Class Hero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	X T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Xanadu T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Zap Snack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Zip Code T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c

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Type:	Trad, TR, 55 ft (17 m)
FA:	Matt Samet, Wayne Crill
Page Views:	1,802 total · 10/month
Shared By:	Orphaned User on Oct 25, 2008
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures Details

Per Mike McHugh, ECSP: The upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin and the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately.

This includes the Continental Crag climbing area.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing and hiking, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the south side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

The route climbs the very overhanging (20 feet in 50) red/orange pillar tucked in a nook about 100 feet past Five Fang Overhang, before you come to the Inverted Vee, Crazy Fingers, etc. The formation looks sort of like a big finger.

Start on the right side of the nook and climb the obtuse corner to a small ledge; plug in gear here and then make a strenuous traverse left, then up, to the "Block," where you can clip a fixed Stopper (and plug in supplemental TCUs). The crux is on the very overhanging arete above, with a good nut around left protecting the exit.

We "headpointed" the route, but now that the gear placements are clean and the holds brushed, it's not unreasonable -- if you're willing to take falls -- to give 'er from the ground, though there are a couple of "no-falls" spots. The gear's all good once you get it in; it's just strenuous to place on this angle.

The name MRJR stands for Michael Reardon Junior Michael and my last day climbing together was up on the West Ridge in March 2007, and we looked at this line on the way out, planning to try it together in autumn 2007. Michael went missing in Ireland that July. MRJR also references Michael's route MRSR, at Indian Cove, Joshua Tree, which he named in honor of his father and did as a free-solo FA (5.12a). It was a real pleasure to be able to come back to this route with Wayne as we continue to explore the endless "chossibilities" on Boulder's sandstone.

MB III is Masterbator's Edge III; the first "Edge" is described on this site and is just uphill by Duh Dihedral; and the second "Edge" (FA: Chris Weidner; 5.12 X), still unnamed, lies just up and right of MRJR. So if you've got your gritstone head on and want to tick the MB Trifecta, there you go -- it's yours for the taking.