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Routes in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express

Air Mail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Backslash T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Barbie Doll Arete, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Bit by Bit T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bottlenecks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clean Dan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Coffee Break with Joe T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Cold Turkey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coniferous Types T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crazy Fingers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cruising Lane T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Detour, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Doc's Little Brother T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dr. Michael Solar T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Duh Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Early Bird Special T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fine Line T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five Fang Overhang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fork in the Road T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Formula, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Foxtrot T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Funeral March T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hang Ten T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Henry Chinaski T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Highway 61 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Inverted Vee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Iron Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kashmir T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kubla Khan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lady Fingers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lunar Avenue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Lunar Lander T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
MRJR (aka MB III) T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Masterbator's Edge, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Milk Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Milk and Honey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Parallels T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pool of Blood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Positively Fourth Street T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rhadamanthus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
River Of Darkness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Road Narrows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sign of the Cross T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snail Mail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Srinagar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tampon T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tango T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tanqueray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Terminal Velocity T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Texas Two-Step T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Three Lane Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Tickle, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Toprope Right of Formula TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trip Itch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tryptich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whatever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Willow World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Working Class Hero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
X T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Xanadu T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zap Snack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zip Code T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mark Hammond, Dougald MacDonald
Page Views: 163 total, 1/month
Shared By: Dougald MacDonald on Apr 8, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a reposting. After the first ascent, we went back and climbed it differently, and it is a much better route now. We started in a different spot, cleaned two large loose flakes, and did a completely new second pitch that is excellent.

Milk Dreams climbs the vague prow in the middle of the "Broken Area" of the upper West Ridge, halfway between the Cirque of Cracks (Hand Crack, Pool of Blood, etc.) and the Parallels area. It's the only good-looking section of rock in this area. Climb a broken crack to the base of the prow (about 15 feet below a large tree), step left into a nasty left-facing corner, place good pro about 15 feet up this corner, and hand-traverse right, onto the prow, on cool horns. If you sling all of your pro to this point, the rope runs straight. The rock and the climbing to this point are rather poor, but both now improve dramatically. Face climb straight up the prow (5.7) with adequate pro (maybe s-minus) to a good belay ledge at about 90 feet.

Pitch 2 climbs straight above the belay along a blocky crack to enter a clean right-facing corner that is longer and harder than it looks! Thin, interesting moves with good pro (5.10a) lead to a sort of alcove. At the top of this, exit left on a hand crack, move up on blocks, and finish on a fun thin-hands crack in a corner. Rappel 200 feet from a tree with a sling. The first pitch is 0 stars, the second pitch is 2 stars, so I guess the route is 1 star.

The original second pitch climbed straight up a thin crack on the prow above the belay ledge (5.9+ s), then was forced into easy cracks and corners on the left before joining the hand crack at the end. Call this the Milquetoast Variation.

Protection

Standard Eldo rack. Two ropes for descent.
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
With some cleaning, this would be a stellar route. May 7, 2012
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
An OK route that starts off blah, but it is redeemed higher up.
You can rap on a single 70m to a ramp system on the left of the route and 3rd class climb to the base. May 25, 2010
Luke Clarke
Golden
 
Luke Clarke   Golden
 
For the record, I inadvertently deleted a comment from my original post that Tony and Dave Holliday responded to. I am reposting now to keep the record clear and so their comments make sense.
It is possible to rap this route with one rope, as Lenny Miller and I did. I don't recommend it because it requires rapping from the anchor atop P1, a solid horn that sits above a large table top block balanced on a smaller rock.
Tony asks about trundling. I think it's a good idea, with all the proper precautions, including a ground crew to keep the path below clear of traffic. The death block's first impact would likely be the path below. Dec 13, 2009