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Routes in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express

Air Mail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Backslash T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Barbie Doll Arete, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Bit by Bit T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bottlenecks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clean Dan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Coffee Break with Joe T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Cold Turkey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coniferous Types T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crazy Fingers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cruising Lane T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Detour, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Doc's Little Brother T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dr. Michael Solar T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Duh Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Early Bird Special T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fine Line T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five Fang Overhang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fork in the Road T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Formula, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Foxtrot T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Funeral March T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hang Ten T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Henry Chinaski T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Highway 61 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Inverted Vee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Iron Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kashmir T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kubla Khan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lady Fingers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lunar Avenue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Lunar Lander T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
MRJR (aka MB III) T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Masterbator's Edge, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Milk Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Milk and Honey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Parallels T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pool of Blood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Positively Fourth Street T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rhadamanthus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
River Of Darkness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Road Narrows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sign of the Cross T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snail Mail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Srinagar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tampon T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tango T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tanqueray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Terminal Velocity T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Texas Two-Step T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Three Lane Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Tickle, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Toprope Right of Formula TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trip Itch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tryptich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whatever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Willow World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Working Class Hero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
X T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Xanadu T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zap Snack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zip Code T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad
FA: Skip Guerin/Bob Horan, 1981
Page Views: 5,758 total, 29/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Oct 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Another not so hidden gem on the West Ridge. It looks like a crack, but does not climb like a crack. First off, the pro is good over the roof, but pumpy to place. Once through the sketchy corner and over the roof, you end up doing these pinch moves, layaways, I dyno'ed to get through the crux and into the flare. Short but sweet...Eldo crack climbing at its best.

[The gear is adequate but very pumpy to place (and hard to see at the crux) with a long fall potential at the crux move]

Once on the upper slab, its gets really dicey getting over to the anchor above Parallels...A 2-bolt anchor would be perfect for this route and Crazy Fingers just to the right.

Protection

sm/med nuts, .4"-1.25" cams for the main route, .5"+2" cams to get to the anchor *This route and the route to its right (Crazy Fingers) are in DIRE need of a 2-bolt anchor to share*
Ben Dueweke
Denver, CO
Ben Dueweke   Denver, CO
I cleaned an old cam and nut off of this route a couple days ago, PM me if they are yours, and I'll get 'em back to you. Aug 26, 2015
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
"I did the first lead of Foxtrot with Skip and I named it after the musical group Genesis's album, "Foxtrot". A lead that took small wires and RPs to lead. This was before the days of the smaller, "Alien" cams. [Bob Horan]"

Bob, you are the man! Feb 13, 2010
bhoran
Boulder, CO
bhoran   Boulder, CO
I did the first lead of Foxtrot with Skip and I named it after the musical group Genesis's album, "Foxtrot". A lead that took small wires and RPs to lead. This was before the days of the smaller, "Alien" cams. Oct 12, 2009
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11d PG13
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11d PG13
An anchor would be nice but at some point you need to draw the line between convenience and necessity. If you're able to climb this route, then the traverse to the anchor shouldn't really be that big of an issue. And there is adequate gear to protect the initial moves into the traverse so that kind of cancels out any argument for the anchor as a safety measure IMO.

I've used the existing anchor to set up topropes on "Foxtrot" and "Crazy Fingers" with directionals in place and never had any issues. I've also cleaned both of these routes after leading them with a little help from my belayer, and it wasn't too difficult. I can fully understand the argument for an additional anchor, but convenience just isn't a good enough reason, especially in Eldo. Feb 2, 2009
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.11d
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.11d
Mega classic, Mega good! I feel this route doesn't deserve an R. It has plenty of great gear throughout. Just be careful with your feet coming off the ledge at the start. I've never been a big fan of the "PG13" tacked on behind a grade. I feel R and X are plenty.

The gear just before the crux is solid and really easy to place. One of the best Eldo has to offer. 5 STARS!!! Oct 1, 2007
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
  5.11d PG13
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
  5.11d PG13
Short and sweet. I highly commend anyone that can onsight as some of the gear and moves are tricky. If not comfortable at the grade, be cautious just after the start above the ledge which has sparse pro. Sep 21, 2007
Joe Collins
  5.11+ PG13
Joe Collins  
  5.11+ PG13
I think this is probably my favorite pitch on the West Ridge. The gear is tricky and strenuous to place, so it would be a very difficult onsight lead... but the gear is good throughout. I agree with the comments about the route's difficulty. I would think of the guidebook grade of 11d as more of an 11+ rating, if you know what I mean.

Mar 8, 2005
While I usually find Eldo grades to be pretty standard (or even soft at times), Foxtrot felt like a sandbag to me. This route felt much more strenous and technical than any 11+ I have done on gear. This felt as hard as some of the 12a or 12b bolted routes I have done in Eldo, except you have to place gear from funky stances. Oct 4, 2004
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Ditto AC that this is significantly harder than Parallels. Nov 9, 2003
An excellent route, considerably harder than Parallels (if Parallels is c/d or just right if b), good gear where you need it. Also good call on [separate] anchor... Nov 3, 2003