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Routes in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express

Air Mail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Backslash T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Barbie Doll Arete, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Bit by Bit T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bottlenecks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clean Dan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Coffee Break with Joe T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Cold Turkey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coniferous Types T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crazy Fingers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cruising Lane T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Detour, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Doc's Little Brother T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dr. Michael Solar T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Duh Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Early Bird Special T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fine Line T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five Fang Overhang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fork in the Road T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Formula, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Foxtrot T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Funeral March T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hang Ten T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Henry Chinaski T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Highway 61 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Inverted Vee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Iron Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kashmir T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kubla Khan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lady Fingers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lunar Avenue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Lunar Lander T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
MRJR (aka MB III) T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Masterbator's Edge, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Milk Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Milk and Honey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Parallels T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pool of Blood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Positively Fourth Street T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rhadamanthus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
River Of Darkness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Road Narrows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sign of the Cross T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snail Mail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Srinagar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tampon T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tango T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tanqueray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Terminal Velocity T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Texas Two-Step T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Three Lane Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Tickle, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Toprope Right of Formula TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trip Itch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tryptich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whatever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Willow World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Working Class Hero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
X T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Xanadu T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zap Snack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zip Code T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Wayne Crill, Hank Caylor, Kevin Gallagher, 2007
Page Views: 3,641 total, 29/month
Shared By: Wayne Crill on Sep 11, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Tango climbs the beautiful, green and red, left-facing dihedral system directly above Foxtrot in the Cirque of the Cracks area on the upper West Ridge. It's hard to do the Tango all alone, like they say, "it take two . . . ." Hence, this route is best climbed as an extension to Foxtrot making for a nice 100' pitch of continuous, high quality, 5.10 and 5.11 climbing.

Climb Foxtrot and continue up and slightly right with stemming into the 3", white, undercling flake. Escape out the roof crack left with exciting moves (crux) to get established on the headwall at the start of the dihedral proper. Climb the L-facing dihedral crack with thin fingers for ~50' before awkwardly transitioning to a second, shorter, left-facing dihedral and escaping to the top of the face. There is a tree belay 15' above here and 120' above the start of Foxtrot. Rapelling N-ish from this tree you can access the anchors atop parallels and hence make it down with a single 60m rope, or from the tree anchor you can just barely make it down to the ledge 10' off the ground at the start foxtrot with a single 70m.

This route was lead ground up and although established as a continuation of Foxtrot (.11d), it can be easily accessed by climbing either Parallels (.11b) or Crazy Fingers (.12b). The grade given is for the climbing above foxtrot only, whether including Foxtrot or not in the grade, the climbing is well protected.

Location

Tango and Foxtrot are readily located in the cirque of the cracks area at the top of the West face.
Descend the face from the tree anchor above with either a single 60m to Parallels' anchor or a single 70m to the ledge starting Foxtrot(knot the end!).

Protection

Gear: (Including any of the beginning routes) 2x cams to ~ 1" including triples in finger sizes, many nuts, RPs, a few 3' slings.
Patrick Pharo
Boulder, CO
Patrick Pharo   Boulder, CO
I would also like to see a bolted anchor for this pitch. The tree belay is a difficult and potentially dangerous rope pull. Great pitch. Dec 14, 2012
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11
Nice route, Wayne, finally got on it the other day and was impressed with the quality. The new anchor at the top of Foxtrot/Crazy Fingers makes this easy to do as two pitches, but climbing it as one long pitch is full value. Sep 15, 2011
Wayne Crill
an Altered State
 
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
 
Glad y'all enjoyed it Josh and Joe, consensus appears to be settling at lower-mid .11, that's cool. Yeah Joe, the sloping alcove at the top full of loose rocks is very sub-optimal for sure, really can't clean the loose rocks off either . . . and a bolted belay at the lip would be preferable, not exactly sure where it would go up there, if you find a good spot and want to submit the application, I'll suport it! but for the app process, I just don't think that dog will hunt? If you can do Foxtrot or Crazy Fingers, you should be able to lead up Tango without difficulty, hence TR seems not too necessary for this line.

I think its manageable as is. If a TR is desireable, it can be safely set up with webbing from the tree that extends to the lip. On lead then rappell, being careful at the lip and gentle with the pull prevents rocks from falling. This does support only using a single rope for rappelling as pulling with a knot could bring down the rain; 60m to parallels anchors and down, or 70m to starting ledge. (Edit to add with new anchor between the tops of Foxtrot/Crazy Fingers, going over to Parallels is obscene, er I mean obsolete.)

W Mar 16, 2009
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
  5.11b
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
  5.11b
A budding classic, make no mistake about it. Currently, even though a bit dirty in spots it's just very good. If you have the moxie to send Foxtrot or Crazy Fingers don't miss out on this great finish. The belay seems dangerous with all that loose choss on the slopping shelf - would a bolted anchor a bit lower be safer? Mar 14, 2009
Josh Janes

  5.11b
Josh Janes    
  5.11b
Four star classic when combined with Crazy Fingers or Foxtrot (the more natural line is from Crazy Fingers, but Tango is significantly easier. In fact, I think Tango is significantly easier than even Parallels.... I would have called it 5.11b?). Nice job on scoring this sweet FA!!! Mar 12, 2009
Brad Durbin  
 
High quality obvious extension to Foxtrot. This thing climbs great and is a proud lead when combined with Foxtrot. Tango is well worth your while. Nice job Wayne. Apr 30, 2008
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
Waaay nice climb. As good as it gets actually. Will definitely go back to this area this weekend as there seems to be a lot of potential for more. Good job Wayne and Kevin! Sep 17, 2007
Wayne Crill
an Altered State
 
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
 
Thanks for the history Steve. Yes its certainly possible that the line had been climbed in the past, its rather obvious and accessible. I did talk to as many people as I could and no one knew of an ascent, though many people had looked at-inspected-thought about it. It did appear as if no one had climbed though these areas in years at best (thick dense flakey lichen, dirt, loose rocks, etc), but thats always a crap shoot estimate . . .

Regardless if it was previously climbed or not, I think its really nice quality climbing and hence a worthy addition climbers will enjoy. It's a nice way to wrap up any of the lower routes, especially foxtrot/crazy fingers since inspite of being very high quality they are kind of short and just stop in that non-descript scoop/slab area- blah blah blah. Sep 12, 2007
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
Yo Wayne and crew, Nice send! 3 years ago I rapped down this and knocked some of the loose junk off and ... a little later while climbing near by I see Josh Wharton top roping this line. We discussed it and he says he was going to come back and lead it ...not sure if he did. You probably did do the first lead. Anybody out there know? Cool line either way!!! peace and f-nes. Sep 11, 2007