Type: Trad, 110 ft (33 m) Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Wayne Crill, Hank Caylor, Kevin Gallagher, 2007
Page Views: 4,395 total · 28/month
Shared By: Wayne Crill on Sep 11, 2007 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Tango climbs the beautiful, green and red, left-facing dihedral system directly above Foxtrot in the Cirque of the Cracks area on the upper West Ridge. It's hard to do the Tango all alone, like they say, "it take two . . . ." Hence, this route is best climbed as an extension to Foxtrot making for a nice 100' pitch of continuous, high quality, 5.10 and 5.11 climbing.

Climb Foxtrot and continue up and slightly right with stemming into the 3", white, undercling flake. Escape out the roof crack left with exciting moves (crux) to get established on the headwall at the start of the dihedral proper. Climb the L-facing dihedral crack with thin fingers for ~50' before awkwardly transitioning to a second, shorter, left-facing dihedral and escaping to the top of the face. There [for years was] a tree belay 15' above here and 120' above the start of Foxtrot. Per Joseph Crotty: this has been replaced with a 2 bolts anchor.

This route was lead ground up and although established as a continuation of Foxtrot (.11d), it can be easily accessed by climbing either Parallels (.11b) or Crazy Fingers (.12b). The grade given is for the climbing above foxtrot only, whether including Foxtrot or not in the grade, the climbing is well protected.

Location

Tango and Foxtrot are readily located in the cirque of the cracks area at the top of the West face.
The descent used to be from the tree anchor above with either a single 60m to Parallels' anchor or a single 70m to the ledge starting Foxtrot (knot the end!).

Per Joseph Crotty: now there is a 2 bolt anchor.

Protection

Gear: (Including any of the beginning routes) 2x cams to ~ 1" including triples in finger sizes, many nuts, RPs, a few 3' slings. [The descent use to be] with 70m to the ground or with 60m to Crazy Fingers anchor and then to the ground. Per Joseph Crotty: now there is a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos