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Routes in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express

Air Mail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Backslash T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Barbie Doll Arete, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Bit by Bit T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bottlenecks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clean Dan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Coffee Break with Joe T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Cold Turkey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coniferous Types T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crazy Fingers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cruising Lane T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Detour, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Doc's Little Brother T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dr. Michael Solar T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Duh Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Early Bird Special T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fine Line T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five Fang Overhang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fork in the Road T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Formula, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Foxtrot T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Funeral March T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hang Ten T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Henry Chinaski T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Highway 61 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Inverted Vee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Iron Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kashmir T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kubla Khan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lady Fingers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lunar Avenue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Lunar Lander T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
MRJR (aka MB III) T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Masterbator's Edge, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Milk Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Milk and Honey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Parallels T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pool of Blood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Positively Fourth Street T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rhadamanthus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
River Of Darkness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Road Narrows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sign of the Cross T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snail Mail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Srinagar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tampon T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tango T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tanqueray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Terminal Velocity T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Texas Two-Step T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Three Lane Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Tickle, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Toprope Right of Formula TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trip Itch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tryptich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whatever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Willow World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Working Class Hero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
X T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Xanadu T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zap Snack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zip Code T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Chris Weidner 2/16/08 TR: Matt Samet 2/9/08
Page Views: 1,560 total, 13/month
Shared By: Chris Weidner on Mar 15, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The Masterbator's Edge (credit for the name goes to Mr. Samet) climbs the overhanging arete immediately right of Funeral March. Scramble to the base of Funeral March and launch up the arete. A balancy start with very poor protection yields to a less difficult but still exciting finish. The rock at the crux is less than perfect, but the classic line and thrilling moves deserve 3 stars. I toproped the route several times before leading it, because a fall at the crux would reap severe consequences.

Protection

A handful of tiny RPs and steel nuts can be wiggled in at the start. A #000 Black Diamond C3 can be placed below the crux but it will almost certainly rip (or break the rock) if you fall. For the upper arete it's nice to have a #2 TCU, a #0.75 Camalot, and 2 #2 Camalots. Also, a cordelette around a flake and #3 Camalot are useful as directionals for toproping, with the main anchor being the 2 bolts above Hand Crack.

Photos

Wayne Crill
an Altered State
  5.12a X
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
  5.12a X
This is a spectacular route: a highly aesthetic line with great position and fun and delicate moves. Were it not for the less than stellar rock down low, I say its a four star neo-classic. Highly recommended, its easy to set up a TR off the Terminal velocity anchor bolts and a sling around a horn. I think this route could become a classic addition to the 5.10 crack-terminal velocity-TR circuit.

I think this route is very similar in grade and severity to the Lion as a fall from the end of the crux on masturbator's could easily result in a serious ledge-strike/ground fall if the belayer is not on top of it. And that's assuming the #00 C3 holds (maybe the crack has "opened up" a bit but I found the #00 C3 -purple- to be the best fit here, I think there is a reasonable chance it'd hold a fall). Rocoto pepper spicy for me.

Great eye, Matt, and impressive rapid ascent, Chris, another great addition to the sand-bag alley area of the West Ridge. Mar 30, 2008