Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Wayne Crill and Brad Durbin, 2009
Page Views: 1,337 total · 11/month
Shared By: Wayne Crill on Mar 9, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a fun, high quality 100’ route climbing the thin off-set seam to the right of Crazy Fingers in the Cirque of the Cracks area. Climb 15’ up to the far R side of the ledge system that marks the start of Foxtrot and Crazy Fingers. Climb up the face with little protection (a large horn in the broken band at the start of Pins and Needles can be slung, awkwardly, for protection here) till your feet are on the break marked by a small fir sapling, the beginning of the crux. From here a shallow micronut can be placed above in the seam. Climb up and over the bulge with wide pinches and corner-arête-slapping side-pulls to a finger slot, good gear, and easier climbing. Follow the seam straight up the shallow, right-facing corner then up through an aesthetic overhanging finger crack in the right side of a slot. Continue straight up the arête-corner through two more steep bulges to the top.

Unfortunately, the route shares a hold with Pins and Needles, even though you climb directly up the offset seam 4-6’ left of Pins and Needles. This route fits well with others on this wall, similar in difficulty, severity, and quality to Crazy Fingers, habanero level spicy. Originally TR'd by Kevin Gallagher, this line was established head-point style and on the FA both climbers led the pitch placing all gear on lead with the exception of the slung horn at the start.

Location

The route climbs the next crack to the right of Crazy Fingers in the Cirque of the Cracks area. 100' to an alcove shared by Tango with a tree and slings. Descend via a left angling rappel to the anchors atop parallels with a 60m rope, or a 70 m rope will just reach the ledge 15’ off the ground.

Protection

SR including micronuts, and extra finger-sized cams.

Photos

Brad Durbin  
 
Fantastic route and rock quality. Fine addition to the Cirque of the Cracks. Hope it sees some traffic as it is a very worthy long line. Mar 9, 2009
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
Nice one Wayne and Brad! I remember seeing something out right with chalk on it when I was working Crazy Fingers. I'll have to go up and check it out. Mar 9, 2009
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
This route looks awesome! One day.... It was a pleasure to meet you. Mar 9, 2009
kevin murphy
Longtuckity, CO
kevin murphy   Longtuckity, CO
Nice job guys. Way to stay focused. Especially after party Sat. night. A few of us managed to boulder for a couple hours. Weak compared to your feat. What's next???? Mar 9, 2009