Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 924 total · 12/month
Shared By: Patrik on Sep 13, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

From the current guidebooks (Rossiter's/Levine's), this single pitch starts with the broken crack on Fine Line to a large ledge then steps right and picks up the left-facing dihedral of the upper part of Terminal Velocity. An even better combo is to start with White Lightning. Pull through its crux and go up about 6 more feet to a hand jam crack. Step left and stand on a sizable jug of Terminal Velocity. Go up to the ledge and continue the dihedral.

This is a great first 10c lead in Eldo as it takes nuts every foot on the upper dihedral (the crux).

Protection

Standard rack. Medium/smallish nuts for the upper half. Maybe a small cam (blue/green Alien?) to prevent gear zippering in the dihedral.

Photos

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Rick Vermeil
Erie, CO
  5.11a
Rick Vermeil   Erie, CO
  5.11a
The upper corner of this route has a lot of thin stemming that gets increasingly difficult. I don't know if you are intended to pull right on to the arete in between White Lightning and this at the top to make it 10c, but it felt harder than the given grade stemming straight up through the corner. I'm 5'9", so maybe it will be easier for a taller climber? I TR'd the lower crux of Terminal Velocity and found the crux technically more difficult but overall way less effort than the upper corner. Small nuts are probably best to protect the upper corner but were hard to place with the wide stemming stance required so I opted for TCUs and ballnuts. Not a "good first Eldo 10c" IMO. Apr 27, 2015
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
  5.10+
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
  5.10+
Agreed, escaping to the arete keeps it in the 5.10 range, but 5.10c is a sandbag for stemming through the top corner if you don't have freakish yoga/splits abilities. A couple comments on Terminal Velocity back this up too, people saying the upper corner is harder than the lower 5.11b/c crux. Jun 18, 2015