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Member Since
Jun 14, 2010
Last Visit: May 17, 2018
30 Points
Point Rank: #12,944 Details

Likes Trad
Leads Follows
Trad 5.10a 5.10c
Sport 5.10a 5.10c
Favorite Climbs
Eldo, Lumpy, Indian Creek, Vedauwoo
More Info
I mostly do full days of trad. My home crag is Eldo (CO), where I lead up to easy 10 on a daily basis. I might need a hang or three following 10c. I'm comfy leading most 5.9 at Lumpy (haven't tried many 10s there yet), up to 5.10+ at Indian Creek (#2, #3 cracks), and crushing hard 5.4 in Vedauwoo.
I have given my "grade ability" as having at least 50% chance of climbing a line clean. You can check my "tick list" for a decent day for me. The list is fake, but it represents a fairly good day. I've done "bigger" and "not-so-great" days, mostly depending on which partners I end up with. My to-do list is true and realistic (and I have done most of them, but would like to repeat). Climbing for me is the same as when you hit the gym; exercise and training. I'm never out there for the adrenaline, and rarely for exploration or adventure.
Safety and efficiency obnoxious, but you won't notice this until you take a closer look at how I do things. Equalization is all fine and dandy, but redundancy rules. A blue alien + #3 nut behind a lose block is NOT an anchor. A 50 year old pin + #4 nut is NOT an anchor. Yes, both have happened to me following ex-partners.
If you're a big fan of "soft catch", please understand "why" and "when".
I'm allergic to people who rely on crummy belay techniques, shitty "anchors", or claim they can climb 5.10 but need to hang when following 5.7.
I've been leading trad since '98.
My crack skills are limited, I'm pretty lousy at face climbing, I don't know much about offwidth, I think slopers really sucks, but my nemesis is steep jug hauls. I have been called "a pretty good choss dancer" and I know a thing or two about nuts.


Ticks View All 9

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 8
Reveley-Hunter
Sep 4, 2016 · Lead.
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 238
Five-Ten Crack
Sep 4, 2016 · Lead.
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 193
Five-Eight Crack
Sep 4, 2016 · Follow.
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 248
Xanadu
Sep 4, 2016 · Lead.
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 75
Knight's Move
Sep 4, 2016 · Follow.
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 93
Friends in High Places
Sep 4, 2016 · Lead.
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Reveley-Hunter Boulder > … > Rincon > Rincon - Center Route…
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad
Sep 4, 2016 · Lead.
Five-Ten Crack Boulder > … > Rincon > Rincon - Center Route…
 238
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Sep 4, 2016 · Lead.
Five-Eight Crack Boulder > … > Rincon > Rincon - Center Route…
 193
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad, TR
Sep 4, 2016 · Follow.
Xanadu Boulder > … > W Ridge > W Ridge - part D - Xa…
 248
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Sep 4, 2016 · Lead.
Knight's Move Boulder > … > W Ridge > W Ridge - part E - to…
 75
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Sep 4, 2016 · Follow.
Friends in High Places Boulder > … > W Ridge > W Ridge - part E - to…
 93
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Sep 4, 2016 · Lead.

Tick Breakdown

Pitches Routes Days Out
90 Days 0 0 0
Last Year 0 0 0
5 Years 14 9 1
All Time 14 9 1

Where Patrik Climbs