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Routes in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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Air Mail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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And Cream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Backslash T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Barbie Doll Arete, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Bit by Bit T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Bottlenecks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Clean Dan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Coffee Break with Joe T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Cold Turkey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Coniferous Types T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cookies T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Crazy Fingers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Cruising Lane T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Detour, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Doc's Little Brother T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dr. Michael Solar T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Duh Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Early Bird Special T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fine Line T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Five Fang Overhang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Fork in the Road T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Formula, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Foxtrot T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Funeral March T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hang Ten T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Henry Chinaski T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Highway 61 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Inverted Vee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Kashmir T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Kubla Khan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lady Fingers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lunar Avenue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R |
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Lunar Lander T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Masterbator's Edge, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Milk and Honey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Milk Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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MRJR (aka MB III) T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Parallels T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pool of Blood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Positively Fourth Street T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rhadamanthus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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River Of Darkness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Road Narrows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sign of the Cross T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Snail Mail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Srinagar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tampon T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R |
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Tango T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Tanqueray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Terminal Velocity T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Texas Two-Step T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Three Lane Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Tickle, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Toprope Right of Formula TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Trip Itch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Tryptich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Whatever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Willow World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Working Class Hero T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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X T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Xanadu T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Zap Snack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 30 ft (9 m) |
| GPS: | 39.93239, -105.28874 |
| FA: | unknown (Hammond/MacDonald?) |
| Page Views: | 75 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 19, 2024 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Cookies is a short climb with some fun moves just above the belay station of the "Milk' routes.
Climb up the shallow, left-facing corner for 25' to a big block/roof. At the block, go right on easy terrain with all kinds of plants and some loose-looking rock, or better yet, bump left a meter under the block, and then continue up cleaner crack climbing for another 10' to a ledge at about 40'
One can improvise a scramble back down to the rap station, find the way to a tree and rap down, or continue up the route "And Cream" for a full 110' to a rap station above there.
Location
From the rap station at the top of Milk Dreams, look up the cliff and slightly to climber's left to see a hand crack just left of a blade of rock in the shallow, left-facing corner. That is the start of Cookies.
Photos
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