Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: M. Brooks, 1982
Page Views: 94 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 5, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

To find this pile, continue past the Cirque of the Cracks, passing 'The Formula' (a short, steep dihedral with a fixed pin and wire) and continuing for ~ 8 meters uphill (west) to a few parallel cracks in a shallow inset.

Climb these parallels in the awkward inset until they converge on a sloping ledge 8-10 meters up. Mount the ledge and step just right to a sloping arete with bad gear and loose rock. This is the insecure crux, then continue up a 2" and smaller crack to the top. A tree to the West has a recently replaced fixed rap, but it is only 1 pc of webbing and a ring- solid FOR NOW.

Rap to the West, just over the route Rhadamanthus.

Protection

A standard rack and some small nuts. The insecure crux is not well protected. Large loose flakes are present at the same place.

Photos

I've done worse routes in Eldo. The route looks pretty good from the ground, but much of the rock is hollow; I suspect some gear might hold a fall, but I wouldn't want to test it.

There aren't any slings on trees at the top. It's pretty trivial to scramble and then walk towards the base of Xanadu to descend. Dec 7, 2014