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Jul 23, 2025
I can’t say for sure, but it’s likely anything of this grade in this spot has been climbed many times and i… View Comment
Jul 23, 2025
For the runout on p1: the slab after the corner is runout but would be pretty cruiser if it wasn’t slightly… View Comment
Oct 27, 2023
The routes listed and drawn in the topos don’t represent how these routes are most often climbed. Left to R… View Comment
Jun 25, 2022
Great movement. Takes reasonable gear even if you don’t trust the pins. First one can be backed up by a sma… View Comment
Oct 10, 2021
Regarding the previous comment: the walk-off to climber’s Right is quick and easy for lots of routes: just.… View Comment
Sep 15, 2021
Regarding previous comment: bomber purple metolius cam protects the first crux. If you fall before placing… View Comment
Mar 25, 2021
While this certainly doesn’t warrant an X rating, a fall in the spot mentioned in the previous comments cou… View Comment
Jun 27, 2020
+1 for the #4 before the long reach. The top of the flake definitely looks suspect. I'm surprised it's stil… View Comment
Mar 12, 2020
Hard to figure out exactly where this one goes in some places. The line we took started with bouldery moves… View Comment
Jul 29, 2019
Certainly a wonderful, aesthetic line. An under-climbed sleeper classic. I know for a fact, though, that it… View Comment
Jul 29, 2019
Phenomenal route. Though I think it is easier than many Gunks 11+/12a from a technical standpoint, it argua… View Comment
Jul 24, 2019
I had a good time, but I don’t mind some dirty rock. The movement itself is pretty phenomenal on both pitch… View Comment
Jul 18, 2019
Though that block moves and can be unnerving to stand on, I actually think it’s quite unlikely that it woul… View Comment
Sep 19, 2018
Did the traverse a few weeks ago from a camp in the cirque. It took us just under 41 hrs camp to camp and w… View Comment
Sep 19, 2018
Just having done this, I can't say enough good things. Pitch one felt the hardest, which may be due to how… View Comment
Jun 11, 2018
Gotcha. Thanks for the info! We didn't actually climb the direct variation, regrettably, so i can't confirm… View Comment
Jun 11, 2018
Tried to follow route as described in Adirondack Rock and got a little off-route between the 2nd half of th… View Comment
Jul 19, 2017
You do not need a #5 or #6 for this climb, in my opinion. Good gear right before the pre-traverse sequence… View Comment
May 27, 2016
Pawel, Mother's Day Party P2 goes left of MF through the roof at a rectangular break with tricky gear and d… View Comment
May 18, 2016
Attempted P2 onsight last week. With the shiny new bolts this feels really safe and accessible at the 11a g… View Comment
Mar 11, 2016
On our first trip to Katahdin, and after enduring poor weather, snowfall, and several nights below -5F in t… View Comment
Dec 21, 2015
Did this again a week ago. Really cool route with dramatic positioning. Bonus: even when every 5.10 at the… View Comment
Dec 21, 2015
Awesome, pumpy route with two short bouldery cruxes separated by the biggest holds you'll ever be tempted t… View Comment
Dec 9, 2015
My buddy and I climbed this on a cold November day as our very first red rocks route. We had an awesome typ… View Comment
Nov 3, 2015
P2 protects fine IMO. You may have to make a move or two up from the best line to place gear. Poke around a… View Comment
Nov 2, 2015
I didn't climb the upper pitches but P1 has great climbing. The rap anchor atop P1 consists of two disgusti… View Comment
Aug 31, 2015
Yesterday we showed up late for the conga line on the northeast buttress of the pinnacle so we decided to d… View Comment
Aug 6, 2015
A classic climb when linked with the yellow ridge. View Comment
Jul 30, 2015
Mostly a 5.6 jug haul with a 15' 5.9 crux and a two-move 5.8 boulder problem to top out. I second rgold's a… View Comment
Apr 9, 2015
I thought the orange face below the crux roof was well protected for the face itself, but the stand up move… View Comment
Apr 9, 2015
This is one of those 5.9+ that felt harder for me than many 5.10- and 5.10a. Tricky moves and tricky gear. View Comment
Nov 11, 2014
If the cruxes on pitch 1 are 10b, that puts the pitch 2 crux at 10d in my book. Pitch 1 sports really great… View Comment
Nov 6, 2014
I climbed this onsight and without any gear beta... Provided for a pretty intense experience! There is a la… View Comment
Nov 6, 2014
While technically easy for the grade, this is one of the more sustained 10s I've done in the gunks. Great m… View Comment
Aug 5, 2014
With a proper topo map of the High Peaks area, the descents should be pretty obvious. The summit of Gothics… View Comment
Jul 24, 2014
Held off on this one for quite some time and was a wee bit disappointed. That's what I get for having expec… View Comment
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