Simon Thompson > Comments
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Jul 23, 2025
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I can’t say for sure, but it’s likely anything of this grade in this spot has been climbed many times and i…
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Jul 23, 2025
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For the runout on p1: the slab after the corner is runout but would be pretty cruiser if it wasn’t slightly…
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Oct 27, 2023
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The routes listed and drawn in the topos don’t represent how these routes are most often climbed. Left to R…
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Jun 25, 2022
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Great movement. Takes reasonable gear even if you don’t trust the pins. First one can be backed up by a sma…
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Oct 10, 2021
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Regarding the previous comment: the walk-off to climber’s Right is quick and easy for lots of routes: just.…
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Sep 15, 2021
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Regarding previous comment: bomber purple metolius cam protects the first crux. If you fall before placing…
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Mar 25, 2021
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While this certainly doesn’t warrant an X rating, a fall in the spot mentioned in the previous comments cou…
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Jun 27, 2020
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+1 for the #4 before the long reach. The top of the flake definitely looks suspect. I'm surprised it's stil…
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Mar 12, 2020
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Hard to figure out exactly where this one goes in some places. The line we took started with bouldery moves…
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Jul 29, 2019
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Certainly a wonderful, aesthetic line. An under-climbed sleeper classic. I know for a fact, though, that it…
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Jul 29, 2019
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Phenomenal route. Though I think it is easier than many Gunks 11+/12a from a technical standpoint, it argua…
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Jul 24, 2019
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I had a good time, but I don’t mind some dirty rock. The movement itself is pretty phenomenal on both pitch…
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Jul 18, 2019
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Though that block moves and can be unnerving to stand on, I actually think it’s quite unlikely that it woul…
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Sep 19, 2018
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Did the traverse a few weeks ago from a camp in the cirque. It took us just under 41 hrs camp to camp and w…
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Sep 19, 2018
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Just having done this, I can't say enough good things. Pitch one felt the hardest, which may be due to how…
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Jun 11, 2018
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Gotcha. Thanks for the info! We didn't actually climb the direct variation, regrettably, so i can't confirm…
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Jun 11, 2018
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Tried to follow route as described in Adirondack Rock and got a little off-route between the 2nd half of th…
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Jul 19, 2017
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You do not need a #5 or #6 for this climb, in my opinion. Good gear right before the pre-traverse sequence…
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May 27, 2016
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Pawel, Mother's Day Party P2 goes left of MF through the roof at a rectangular break with tricky gear and d…
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May 18, 2016
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Attempted P2 onsight last week. With the shiny new bolts this feels really safe and accessible at the 11a g…
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Mar 11, 2016
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On our first trip to Katahdin, and after enduring poor weather, snowfall, and several nights below -5F in t…
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Dec 21, 2015
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Did this again a week ago. Really cool route with dramatic positioning. Bonus: even when every 5.10 at the…
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Dec 21, 2015
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Awesome, pumpy route with two short bouldery cruxes separated by the biggest holds you'll ever be tempted t…
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Dec 9, 2015
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My buddy and I climbed this on a cold November day as our very first red rocks route. We had an awesome typ…
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Nov 3, 2015
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P2 protects fine IMO. You may have to make a move or two up from the best line to place gear. Poke around a…
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Nov 2, 2015
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I didn't climb the upper pitches but P1 has great climbing. The rap anchor atop P1 consists of two disgusti…
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Aug 31, 2015
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Yesterday we showed up late for the conga line on the northeast buttress of the pinnacle so we decided to d…
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Aug 6, 2015
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A classic climb when linked with the yellow ridge.
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Jul 30, 2015
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Mostly a 5.6 jug haul with a 15' 5.9 crux and a two-move 5.8 boulder problem to top out. I second rgold's a…
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Apr 9, 2015
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I thought the orange face below the crux roof was well protected for the face itself, but the stand up move…
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Apr 9, 2015
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This is one of those 5.9+ that felt harder for me than many 5.10- and 5.10a. Tricky moves and tricky gear.
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Nov 11, 2014
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If the cruxes on pitch 1 are 10b, that puts the pitch 2 crux at 10d in my book. Pitch 1 sports really great…
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Nov 6, 2014
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I climbed this onsight and without any gear beta... Provided for a pretty intense experience! There is a la…
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Nov 6, 2014
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While technically easy for the grade, this is one of the more sustained 10s I've done in the gunks. Great m…
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Aug 5, 2014
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With a proper topo map of the High Peaks area, the descents should be pretty obvious. The summit of Gothics…
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Jul 24, 2014
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Held off on this one for quite some time and was a wee bit disappointed. That's what I get for having expec…
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