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Routes in Juno Tower

Clean Break T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft, 15 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Bryan Burdo and Yann Merrand
Page Views: 6,755 total · 144/month
Shared By: brandonia on Jul 15, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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Description [Edit]

There's tons of beta out there for this climb, but I thought there oughta be a place on the web for it for sharing beta, conditions, or just some old fashioned spraying.

P1 - 5.10c, 100'. From a nice ledge with a low anchor pin, climb the 'clean break' crux pitch. A sustained thin hand beauty that'll wake you up if the approach didn't already. Nature's coffee.

P2 - 5.9 or 5.10a, 75'. Avoid the dirty right facing corner and follow the 3" crack up and right over a small roof. climb past the 4" horizontal crack up a slab and over another roof. If you don't like the looks of the 2nd roof, you can traverse left into the original corner. Finish at a small ledge with a bushy tree.

P3 - 5.7, 80'. All the topos out there don't quite agree, but the super topo worked out. Make a short left traverse then up a left facing corner. Angle right, past a tree, and belay at a horn.

P4 - 5.8, 90'. Downclimb right about 10' then make an insecure traversing move around the arete to a ledge on the right. Up blocks and belay by a huge flake.

P5 - 5.10a, 100'. Climb up the thin crack to a fixed pin and make a dainty 15' traverse left to another thin crack. Place a blind mental cam, make the move, then upgrade the cam to load resisting. Climb up the crack and belay at a spacious ledge.

P6 - 5.6, 180'. Bang out a full rope length up a chimney, and then blocky terrain and belay at a tree below the Hercules Tower.

P7 - 5.10b, 100'. A wonderfully varied pitch. Take the ramp right to a steep wall with a left sweeping 2" crack that widens to 4" where it goes vertical (10a). Over the bulge, up the ramp to another 10a slab traverse, this time to the right to even things out, to a thin crack. Climb the crack, tips to a jug (crux). Sweet.

P8 - 5.8, 100'. Up a hand crack, right around the crest, up flakes to a ledge.

P9 - 5.0, 60'. Climb the easy chimney to a big blocky ledge. P8 and P9 can be climbed as one.

P10 - 5.9, 80'. Killer locks with some stemming up a short steep face, traverse right on a narrow ledge, up some blocks to a huge ledge.

P11 to P15 - mid 5th, 500'. Go thru a hole and right over the crest to a big ledge and simul-climb from there. Stay on or to the right of the crest. There is a nice 5.10a hand crack to top out up there, if you can find it.

Location [Edit]

On the east side of Juno Tower. From Silver Star Creek, at 5000' make a rising traverse avoiding most of the slide alder to the steep clean crack at the base of the prow, left of a deep narrow gully.

Protection [Edit]

set of nuts
doubles to 3"
no need for a #4 as there is a fixed one on P7 (7/4/14). #4 is gone per comment below. It's nice to have one.
Some additional firsthand beta... Having done it both ways, I'd say that the best ascent/descent path is to climb from silverstar creek, up and over Juno and descend to Bench Camp on the west side of the wine spires. Gotta hitch a ride or stash some bikes though.

A little more... Unless you're a rockin thin hand crack climber, or have tiny hands, bring an extra .75, and maybe .5. The first pitch is by and far the hardest pitch of the route, with the ".10b" bulge easily being the crux IMO. It's pretty hard, harder than some of the 5.11 pitches out there. The rest of the 5.10 pitches are cruiser though, soft .10a's.... so don't be dissuaded by the hard first pitch... as I've heard people mention bailing after that pitch because of the perceived difficult nature of the route.

This route climbs super fast for it's size and is of high quality. Jul 19, 2014
Oakridge, OR
Ball   Oakridge, OR
#4 is no longer there *sheepish look*. If you want to save weight get a big tricam :)

Great route! Led every pitch and got some calf burn (perhaps de to the hike). Get an EARLY start or else you'll get benighted like me and end up bushwhacking in the dark for hours and hours... Sep 14, 2014
We climbed Clean Break last weekend (6/6/2015).

Went up and over Burgundy Col, dropped down quite a bit on the back side, and traversed skiier's left for a while to the base of the climb.

The snow was friendly. We glissaded the big drop just over Burgundy Col. Just brought axes, didn't need crampons.

The Route
Super fun! I'd definitely recommend doing it, and will definitely go back and repeat it at some point. The first pitch is great! I didn't find it to be much more difficult than other parts of the route, but I do personally prefer a crack of any size to a delicate traverse.

Route Finding
Route finding was pretty straightforward as long as you follow the beta. We thought we might have been off-route a couple times on the last 500ft of simul-climbing, but realized we were on-track the whole time when we hit the summit.

The only spot where a #4 was truly useful was the swooping crack on pitch 7. Just bring one #4.

We descended the west side, dropping some and then traversing over to Burgundy Col, back to Bench Camp. We never felt like we were on an obvious climber's trail.

Jun 10, 2015
harihari   VANCOUVER
We did this route in 13 hours descending thru Bench Camp. We had a #4 but I forgot it on the pitch where it was needed. If you are solid on 10s a #4 is not necessary. Approach about 3 hrs.

12 real pitches plus 200 meters of make up your own rock climb at the end. P1 is not 10c-- felt like 10a-- loads of gear and stances.

A great route. Superb rock and position and great views. Do this. Aug 24, 2015
Wenatchee, WA
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
This route gets a big ol fat Meh. Do the first two pitches then rap and hike up to Chianti Spire to do Rebel Yell. May 8, 2018

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