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Routes in Juno Tower

Clean Break T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft, 15 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Bryan Burdo and Yann Merrand
Page Views: 7,568 total · 152/month
Shared By: brandonia on Jul 15, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

There's tons of beta out there for this climb, but I thought there oughta be a place on the web for it for sharing beta, conditions, or just some old fashioned spraying.

P1 - 5.10c, 100'. From a nice ledge with a low anchor pin, climb the 'clean break' crux pitch. A sustained thin hand beauty that'll wake you up if the approach didn't already. Nature's coffee.

P2 - 5.9 or 5.10a, 75'. Avoid the dirty right facing corner and follow the 3" crack up and right over a small roof. climb past the 4" horizontal crack up a slab and over another roof. If you don't like the looks of the 2nd roof, you can traverse left into the original corner. Finish at a small ledge with a bushy tree.

P3 - 5.7, 80'. All the topos out there don't quite agree, but the super topo worked out. Make a short left traverse then up a left facing corner. Angle right, past a tree, and belay at a horn.

P4 - 5.8, 90'. Downclimb right about 10' then make an insecure traversing move around the arete to a ledge on the right. Up blocks and belay by a huge flake.

P5 - 5.10a, 100'. Climb up the thin crack to a fixed pin and make a dainty 15' traverse left to another thin crack. Place a blind mental cam, make the move, then upgrade the cam to load resisting. Climb up the crack and belay at a spacious ledge.

P6 - 5.6, 180'. Bang out a full rope length up a chimney, and then blocky terrain and belay at a tree below the Hercules Tower.

P7 - 5.10b, 100'. A wonderfully varied pitch. Take the ramp right to a steep wall with a left sweeping 2" crack that widens to 4" where it goes vertical (10a). Over the bulge, up the ramp to another 10a slab traverse, this time to the right to even things out, to a thin crack. Climb the crack, tips to a jug (crux). Sweet.

P8 - 5.8, 100'. Up a hand crack, right around the crest, up flakes to a ledge.

P9 - 5.0, 60'. Climb the easy chimney to a big blocky ledge. P8 and P9 can be climbed as one.

P10 - 5.9, 80'. Killer locks with some stemming up a short steep face, traverse right on a narrow ledge, up some blocks to a huge ledge.

P11 to P15 - mid 5th, 500'. Go thru a hole and right over the crest to a big ledge and simul-climb from there. Stay on or to the right of the crest. There is a nice 5.10a hand crack to top out up there, if you can find it.

Location

On the east side of Juno Tower. From Silver Star Creek, at 5000' make a rising traverse avoiding most of the slide alder to the steep clean crack at the base of the prow, left of a deep narrow gully.

Protection

set of nuts
doubles to 3"
no need for a #4 as there is a fixed one on P7 (7/4/14). #4 is gone per comment below. It's nice to have one.
Rafe
  5.10c
Rafe  
  5.10c
Some additional firsthand beta... Having done it both ways, I'd say that the best ascent/descent path is to climb from silverstar creek, up and over Juno and descend to Bench Camp on the west side of the wine spires. Gotta hitch a ride or stash some bikes though.

A little more... Unless you're a rockin thin hand crack climber, or have tiny hands, bring an extra .75, and maybe .5. The first pitch is by and far the hardest pitch of the route, with the ".10b" bulge easily being the crux IMO. It's pretty hard, harder than some of the 5.11 pitches out there. The rest of the 5.10 pitches are cruiser though, soft .10a's.... so don't be dissuaded by the hard first pitch... as I've heard people mention bailing after that pitch because of the perceived difficult nature of the route.

This route climbs super fast for it's size and is of high quality. Jul 19, 2014
Ball
Oakridge, OR
5.10b
Ball   Oakridge, OR
5.10b
#4 is no longer there *sheepish look*. If you want to save weight get a big tricam :)

Great route! Led every pitch and got some calf burn (perhaps de to the hike). Get an EARLY start or else you'll get benighted like me and end up bushwhacking in the dark for hours and hours... Sep 14, 2014
Date
We climbed Clean Break last weekend (6/6/2015).

Approach
Went up and over Burgundy Col, dropped down quite a bit on the back side, and traversed skiier's left for a while to the base of the climb.

Conditions
The snow was friendly. We glissaded the big drop just over Burgundy Col. Just brought axes, didn't need crampons.

The Route
Super fun! I'd definitely recommend doing it, and will definitely go back and repeat it at some point. The first pitch is great! I didn't find it to be much more difficult than other parts of the route, but I do personally prefer a crack of any size to a delicate traverse.

Route Finding
Route finding was pretty straightforward as long as you follow the beta. We thought we might have been off-route a couple times on the last 500ft of simul-climbing, but realized we were on-track the whole time when we hit the summit.

Gear
The only spot where a #4 was truly useful was the swooping crack on pitch 7. Just bring one #4.

Descent
We descended the west side, dropping some and then traversing over to Burgundy Col, back to Bench Camp. We never felt like we were on an obvious climber's trail.

Jun 10, 2015
harihari
VANCOUVER
harihari   VANCOUVER
We did this route in 13 hours descending thru Bench Camp. We had a #4 but I forgot it on the pitch where it was needed. If you are solid on 10s a #4 is not necessary. Approach about 3 hrs.

12 real pitches plus 200 meters of make up your own rock climb at the end. P1 is not 10c-- felt like 10a-- loads of gear and stances.

A great route. Superb rock and position and great views. Do this. Aug 24, 2015
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
This route gets a big ol fat Meh. Do the first two pitches then rap and hike up to Chianti Spire to do Rebel Yell. May 8, 2018
wakaranai
Mount Vernon, WA
 
wakaranai   Mount Vernon, WA
 
Worth doing for sure. I thought P1 & P7 were excellent and every other 5.10 pitch was good. Follow Blake Herrington's beta in Cascades Rock for linking pitches. The finish is a bit anti climactic and there is a lot of loose crap but overall it makes for a great day of consistant moving Jul 23, 2018
Great route, definitely worth doing. All of the harder pitches are excellent, and the easier pitches are ok. Nothing really bad.

Did this as carry over from Silver Creek TH to MP 167 on Hwy 2. Stashed a bike at MP 167 - would have been difficult to catch a ride at 10pm on a Monday evening. This option has the least amount of elevation gain and no need for overnight gear or ice axes and crampons (needed for Burgundy Col). However, it is not suitable for more than one objective in the area.

We created a GPS track based on Steph Abegg's track and followed it closely. That worked really well and I would definitely want it for the descent. Going high after crossing the creek at 5600' on the approach avoids most of the brush. The descent from Juno Tower to the bench is a little tricky due to some cliff bands that get in the way. It's relatively straight forward in daylight, would not want to do it in the dark.

We followed Herrington's topo which worked out so and so. Herrington combines Supertopo pitches 2&3 and 8&9. The latter worked out fine. The former only works if you place no gear on the 10a section (not me) so I ended up with horrible rope drag despite long and extra long slings on every piece. Wouldn't do that again. We led this in two long blocks with me leading pitches 1-4 and my partner leading 5-8 (Herrington pitch count). There's a nice ledge above pitch 4 which made for a perfect lunch beak. We did one more pitch above pitch 8 (Herrington calls this 4th class) which was good because that was not even low 5th. Above that we simul climbed to the top. The route stays close to the arete, but it's about 50:50 left and right (Herrington says right). It's airy and improbable in places.

Overall the ratings were right on for all the harder pitches IMHO. I found the 10c is right on (I have small hands). Maybe I just had a good day, but I found it easier than the 2nd pitch on the Davis-Holland. However, all the easy pitches are a bit sandbagged. The 5.6 traverse has a 5.9 move and the 4th class on top includes some mid 5th class.

We brought doubles .4 to #2, one #3 and one #4, triples purple, green and red, a set of nuts and a few smaller cams. Purple was total overkill, but the triples green and red were nice to have on the first pitch and they made for great anchor pieces on almost every pitch that followed. However, if you are super solid on 5.10 it's probably overkill. Nobody needs a #4 though - simply because it does not fit where you'd want it. There's a reason there was a #4 stuck! What you really need is two #3's. I also used the #4 on the second pitch and it was nice to have, but not necessary. I wouldn't bring it if I were to do this route again. Jul 26, 2018

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