Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft, 15 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Bryan Burdo and Yann Merrand
Page Views: 8,861 total · 146/month
Shared By: brandonia on Jul 15, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

There's tons of beta out there for this climb, but I thought there oughta be a place on the web for it for sharing beta, conditions, or just some old fashioned spraying.

P1 - 5.10c, 100'. From a nice ledge with a low anchor pin, climb the 'clean break' crux pitch. A sustained thin hand beauty that'll wake you up if the approach didn't already. Nature's coffee.

P2 - 5.9 or 5.10a, 75'. Avoid the dirty right facing corner and follow the 3" crack up and right over a small roof. climb past the 4" horizontal crack up a slab and over another roof. If you don't like the looks of the 2nd roof, you can traverse left into the original corner. Finish at a small ledge with a bushy tree.

P3 - 5.7, 80'. All the topos out there don't quite agree, but the super topo worked out. Make a short left traverse then up a left facing corner. Angle right, past a tree, and belay at a horn.

P4 - 5.8, 90'. Downclimb right about 10' then make an insecure traversing move around the arete to a ledge on the right. Up blocks and belay by a huge flake.

P5 - 5.10a, 100'. Climb up the thin crack to a fixed pin and make a dainty 15' traverse left to another thin crack. Place a blind mental cam, make the move, then upgrade the cam to load resisting. Climb up the crack and belay at a spacious ledge.

P6 - 5.6, 180'. Bang out a full rope length up a chimney, and then blocky terrain and belay at a tree below the Hercules Tower.

P7 - 5.10b, 100'. A wonderfully varied pitch. Take the ramp right to a steep wall with a left sweeping 2" crack that widens to 4" where it goes vertical (10a). Over the bulge, up the ramp to another 10a slab traverse, this time to the right to even things out, to a thin crack. Climb the crack, tips to a jug (crux). Sweet.

P8 - 5.8, 100'. Up a hand crack, right around the crest, up flakes to a ledge.

P9 - 5.0, 60'. Climb the easy chimney to a big blocky ledge. P8 and P9 can be climbed as one.

P10 - 5.9, 80'. Killer locks with some stemming up a short steep face, traverse right on a narrow ledge, up some blocks to a huge ledge.

P11 to P15 - mid 5th, 500'. Go thru a hole and right over the crest to a big ledge and simul-climb from there. Stay on or to the right of the crest. There is a nice 5.10a hand crack to top out up there, if you can find it.

Location

On the east side of Juno Tower. From Silver Star Creek, at 5000' make a rising traverse avoiding most of the slide alder to the steep clean crack at the base of the prow, left of a deep narrow gully.

Protection

set of nuts
doubles to 3"
no need for a #4 as there is a fixed one on P7 (7/4/14). #4 is gone per comment below. It's nice to have one.

Photos