Elevation: 7,011 ft
GPS: 48.62, -121.151 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,756,159 total · 8,574/month
Shared By: Lizzy Trower on Jan 30, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details

Description

The North Cascades are home to a huge number of peaks with many excellent alpine climbs. It is unlike other North American ranges such as the Sierra, Wind River or Colorado Rockies in that the local relief is immense and consistent - much more like a plateau of summits with deeply cut gorges in between than a series of ridges that ascend to a high point. The North Cascades is also northernly on the continent and has a maritime climate - this results in its containing the majority of the glaciers in the lower 48. Deep, mossy gorges, countless beautiful falls, endless devil's club and banded Skagit gneiss on the west side give way to rattlesnakes, hot summers, endless sharp ridgelines and sedimentary choss. Both sides of the range, however, have pockets of lovely granite scattered hither and yon, and intense bushwhacks to many of the peaks. In a low-elevation range with so much snow and rainfall, plus deep glacier-sculpted cirques and valleys, those who access these sometime-remote peaks are a special type of Cascade hardmen. The mainstays of good rock include Washington Pass, parts of Boston Basin, the Gunsight Range, and parts of the Pickets. With so much to offer and typical alpine approaches, you probably won't find mobs of other people. Where granite exists, the rock is mostly very good, offering cracks, chimneys, flakes, roofs, etc. Summer is the time for alpine rock. 

Getting There

The general North Cascades area can be reached either by driving west on Highway 20 from I-5 (although Highway 20 is more often closed than not) or by driving east on Highway 2 to Leavenworth or I-90, then North on Highway 97 and North again on Highway 153, which meets up with the other side of Highway 20 in Twisp.

213 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at North Cascades

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Easy Snow
 123
East Ridge
Snow, Alpine
WI3 Steep Snow
 178
North Ridge
Ice, Snow, Alpine
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI1 Mod. Snow
 114
Fisher Chimneys
Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 475
Beckey Route (SW Face)
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow
 244
West Ridge
Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 447
Southwest Rib
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 99
West Ridge
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 216
Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-…
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 93
East Face
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 83
East Face / Rebel Yell
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 80
Clean Break
Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
 128
Direct East Buttress
Trad, Aid, Alpine 9 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C2
 118
Liberty Crack
Trad, Aid, Alpine 12 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 262
The West Face
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 120
The Hitchhiker
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East Ridge Eldorado Peak > Main Peak
 123
Easy Snow Snow, Alpine
North Ridge Mt Baker
 178
WI3 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine
Fisher Chimneys Mt Shuksan > Main Peak
 114
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI1 Mod. Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Beckey Route (SW Face) Washington Pass > Liberty Bell Group > Liberty Bell
 475
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
West Ridge Boston Basin > Forbidden Peak
 244
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
Southwest Rib Washington Pass > Liberty Bell Group > S Early Winters Spire
 447
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
West Ridge Washington Pass > Silver Star & W… > Paisano Pinnacle
 99
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Bo… Washington Pass > Liberty Bell Group > N Early Winter Spire
 216
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
East Face Washington Pass > Liberty Bell Group > Lexington Tower
 93
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
East Face / Rebel Yell Washington Pass > Silver Star & W… > Chianti Spire
 83
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Clean Break Washington Pass > Silver Star & W… > Juno Tower
 80
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
Direct East Buttress Washington Pass > Liberty Bell Group > S Early Winters Spire
 128
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 Trad, Aid, Alpine 9 pitches
Liberty Crack Washington Pass > Liberty Bell Group > Liberty Bell
 118
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C2 Trad, Aid, Alpine 12 pitches
The West Face Washington Pass > Liberty Bell Group > N Early Winter Spire
 262
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
The Hitchhiker Washington Pass > Liberty Bell Group > S Early Winters Spire
 120
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
More Classic Climbs in North Cascades »

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