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Routes in Castle Peak

North Face left buttress T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Elevation: 8,306 ft
GPS: 48.984, -120.869 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: blakeherrington on Jun 17, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick
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Description

Castle Peak is a remote granite mountain sitting at the intersection of Whatcom County, Okanogan County, and the US/Canada border. It is seldom climbed, and seldom seen (from up close) yet holds fantastic rock and scenery, with an approach that isn't too long by local standards. Additionally, the glacier at the foot of the North Face is mellow enough to allow for easy travel. The alpine meadows at the foot of the north face are sublime.

The Kearney route, on the East Buttress of the South Face, is included in his Selected Climbs book, but has likely only seen one repeat. It is meant to be a good climb.

The Colorado Route (Glick/Pennings/Medara) has likely not been repeated. It looks classic.

The Herrington/Hirst route was attempted by at least one party before being completed in 2008. It may share an initial pitch or 2 with the Colorado Route.

The Berdinka/Layton Route (Sod-On-Me) goes from great climbing to a mossy/dirty, lower-angled feature. It has seen at least one repeat.

Getting There

Approach is best done via Canada's Hwy3 East of Hope, BC - Manning Provincial Park (visitor center here) - Hike to the Frosty Mountain lookout (good marked trail) - Head south cross country, over international border, obvious terrain to North Face.

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Photos

Several pitches of the Kearney route have fallen off leaving a very large scar. The route no longer exists, a shame. Aug 28, 2017

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