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Routes in Castle Peak

North Face left buttress T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1400 ft, 12 pitches, Grade IV
FA: 2008
Page Views: 1,055 total · 10/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Jun 17, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Description

This route was climbed in the summer of 2008 on an attempt to repeat the 1993 Colorado route.The 1993 route moves out to the right onto the buttress crest. We were unable to figure out where the climb moved right. In any case, the route done was enjoyable and on excellent stone.

Cross the Glacier, should be fairly low-angle. Moat may be an issue. All lengths approximate.

P1. Begin in the blocky line of face holds just left of the gulley/chimney on the left edge of the buttress. Toward the end there is a wide crack, most of the pitch is low 5th. 70m 5.8

P2. Climb up and right to the top of the snow, aim for the clean wall below a shallow L-Facing corner. 20m Low 5th

P3. Up unprotected face climbing to the corner, which has good gear (fixed LA piton in place). From the top of the crack, hard 5.10 face climbing (great gear) leads to a ledge. 30m 5.10+

P4. Face climb left from the belay, then up the perfect flakes and cracks to the pedestal above. 40m 5.10-


P5. Move down and left from the belay to a hidden corner, and work your way back up and right to a spot above the belay. 30m 5.7


P6. Left and up to the bottom of a long seam/ finger crack. Move left at the base of the crack, and up/left around a series of corners and roofs. We belayed down near the chimney/gulley. 45m 5.10

P7. Up the featured arĂȘte to the right of the chimney/gulley, then up a perfectly white shallow dihedral, undercling right, and belay. Small TCUs usefull. Some may find this pitch runout. 5.10 30m

P8-P12. Follow the left side of the buttress to the top


Descent is via the East ridge and snow slopes to the North. Crampons and axe helpful but not mandatory depending on snow hardness and willingness to leave rock anchors/bollards.

Protection

Gear to 3" with mostly small gear. Pitons useful.

Photos

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