Elevation: 8,860 ft
GPS: 48.53755, -121.13436
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 61,732 total · 318/month
Shared By: Danny Darby on Feb 25, 2007
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details

Description

Eldorado Peak is an awe aspiring alpine area deep in the North Cascades. The Cascade Pass area can be very crowded on the weekends but is secluded on the weekdays. The summit of Eldorado Peak is guarded by a long and strenuous approach. All though it can be accomplished as a one day push by strong parties it is probably best done as a 2-3 day climb. Routes can be from a easy walk up with an amazing knife edge traverse to WI 3 climbing.

Getting There

The approach is long and strenuous. Walk west on the Cascade River Road for about 100 feet and find the log to cross the river. Once you have crossed the river you follow the trail for about 1840 vertical through the forest. You will eventually reach a large boulder field. Scramble through though boulders following carins and occasionally a trail on the right side of the boulders. Boulder hop for about 1000 vertical. After the boulders you will reach the beautiful meadows where you will hike to the ridge that overlooks the Roush Creek Basin and Eldorado Glacier. Locate the trail the down climbs 3rd class terrain down to the moraine. Follow the moraine to the glacier and then hike the glacier to a great high camp at about 7600 feet.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Eldorado Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Easy Snow
 123
East Ridge
Snow, Alpine
AI2 Steep Snow
 10
Northwest Ice Couloir
Ice, Snow, Alpine
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Easy Snow
 6
Austera Peak
Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Easy Snow
 6
Klawatti Peak SW Buttress
Trad, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow
 25
Northwest Ridge
Trad, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
East Ridge
Trad, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Steep Snow
 5
North Ridge
Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Easy Snow
 12
Southwest Buttress
Trad, Snow, Alpine 9 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Mod. Snow
 7
West Arete
Trad, Snow, Alpine 10 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East Ridge Main Peak
 123
Easy Snow Snow, Alpine
Northwest Ice Couloir Main Peak
 10
AI2 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine
Austera Peak Main Peak
 6
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
Klawatti Peak SW Buttress Main Peak
 6
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
Northwest Ridge Dorado Needle
 25
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
East Ridge Dorado Needle
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine
North Ridge Main Peak
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Steep Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
Southwest Buttress Dorado Needle
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine 9 pitches
West Arete Main Peak
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine 10 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Eldorado Peak »

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