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Routes in Eldorado Peak

Dorado Needle East Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dorado Needle NW Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dorado Needle SW Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Ridge Easy Snow
NW Ice Couloir AI2
Elevation: 8,860 ft
GPS: 48.538, -121.134 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 9,876 total, 75/month
Shared By: Danny Darby on Feb 25, 2007
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

Description

Eldorado Peak is an awe aspiring alpine area deep in the North Cascades. The Cascade Pass area can be very crowded on the weekends but is secluded on the weekdays. The summit of Eldorado Peak is guarded by a long and strenuous approach. All though it can be accomplished as a one day push by strong parties it is probably best done as a 2-3 day climb. Routes can be from a easy walk up with an amazing knife edge traverse to WI 3 climbing.

Getting There

The approach is long and strenuous. Walk west on the Cascade River Road for about 100 feet and find the log to cross the river. Once you have crossed the river you follow the trail for about 1840 vertical through the forest. You will eventually reach a large boulder field. Scramble through though boulders following carins and occasionally a trail on the right side of the boulders. Boulder hop for about 1000 vertical. After the boulders you will reach the beautiful meadows where you will hike to the ridge that overlooks the Roush Creek Basin and Eldorado Glacier. Locate the trail the down climbs 3rd class terrain down to the moraine. Follow the moraine to the glacier and then hike the glacier to a great high camp at about 7600 feet.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Eldorado Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Easy Snow
East Ridge
Snow, Alpine
AI2
NW Ice Couloir
Ice, Alpine
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dorado Needle SW Buttress
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East Ridge Easy Snow Snow, Alpine
NW Ice Couloir AI2 Ice, Alpine
Dorado Needle SW Buttress 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
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