Elevation: 7,807 ft
GPS: 48.512, -120.655 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 123,773 total · 798/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Sep 18, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details

Description

South Early Winters Spire is the highest summit of the Liberty Bell Group. Just South of the 'North Spire', rock is excellent granite and there are routes on all sides. The South Arete, SW Couloir, and SW Rib are very popular. With an easy approach up the Blue Lake Trail, or from the hairpin turn on Hwy 20, SEWS features many very accessible routes.

FA via the Southwest Couloir on July 20, 1937. Kenneth Adam, Rafi Bedayn, and W. Kenneth Davis. The summit is at 7807'.

Getting There

Blue Lake Trail - ~1 hour of hiking on the trail leads to a meadow and opening on the NW side of the spire. Leave the maintained trail here, and head up and left on obvious climber paths. The SEWS is the rightmost of the obvious peaks.

Getting to routes on the East side of the peak is best accomplished via parking at the hairpin turn on hwy 20, and following easy gullies, climber trails, and open alpine terrain to the obvious base of the spire.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Early Winters Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Mod. Snow
 16
Southwest Couloir
Snow, Alpine
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 203
South Arete
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 359
Southwest Rib
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 41
Boving Roofs
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
 116
Direct East Buttress
Trad, Aid, Alpine 9 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 92
The Hitchhiker
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Free Mojo
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 23
Northwest Face (Boving-Pollock)
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 32
The Passenger
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 17
Southern Man
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Southwest Couloir
 16
Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine
South Arete
 203
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Southwest Rib
 359
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Boving Roofs
 41
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Direct East Buttress
 116
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 Trad, Aid, Alpine 9 pitches
The Hitchhiker
 92
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Free Mojo
 7
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Northwest Face (Boving-Poll…
 23
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
The Passenger
 32
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Southern Man
 17
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
More Classic Climbs in South Early Winters Spire »

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