Elevation: 7,807 ft
GPS: 48.51216, -120.65513
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 162,520 total · 928/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Sep 18, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details

Description

South Early Winters Spire is the highest summit of the Liberty Bell Group. Just South of the 'North Spire', rock is excellent granite and there are routes on all sides. The South Arete, SW Couloir, and SW Rib are very popular. With an easy approach up the Blue Lake Trail, or from the hairpin turn on Hwy 20, SEWS features many very accessible routes.

FA via the Southwest Couloir on July 20, 1937. Kenneth Adam, Rafi Bedayn, and W. Kenneth Davis. The summit is at 7807'.

Getting There

Blue Lake Trail - ~1 hour of hiking on the trail leads to a meadow and opening on the NW side of the spire, with a wooden "Liberty Bell trail 727" sign.  Leave the maintained trail here, and head up and left on obvious climber paths. The SEWS is the rightmost of the obvious peaks, but the trail to it splits from the Liberty Bell trail fairly high up (around 7000').

Getting to routes on the East side of the peak is best accomplished via parking at the hairpin turn on hwy 20, and following easy gullies, climber trails, and open alpine terrain to the obvious base of the spire.

14 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: South Early Winters Spire Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at South Early Winters Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Mod. Snow
 19
Southwest Couloir
Snow, Alpine
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 233
South Arete
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 448
Southwest Rib
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 58
Boving Roofs
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
 128
Direct East Buttress
Trad, Aid, Alpine 9 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 120
The Hitchhiker
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 26
Northwest Face (Boving-Pollock)
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 12
Free Mojo
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 38
The Passenger
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 19
Southern Man
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 3
Backseat Driver
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Southwest Couloir
 19
Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine
South Arete
 233
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Southwest Rib
 448
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Boving Roofs
 58
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Direct East Buttress
 128
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 Trad, Aid, Alpine 9 pitches
The Hitchhiker
 120
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Northwest Face (Boving-Poll…
 26
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Free Mojo
 12
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
The Passenger
 38
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Southern Man
 19
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Backseat Driver
 3
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
More Classic Climbs in South Early Winters Spire »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos