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South Early Winters Spire Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in South Early Winters Spire

L › R R › L A › Z

	Backseat Driver T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Boving Roofs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Direct East Buttress T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
	Dolphin Chimney T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Free Mojo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Hitchhiker, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Mojo Rising T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C1+
	Northwest Face (Boving-Pollock) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Nothing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0
	Passenger, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Rubbernecker, The T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	South Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Southern Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Southwest Couloir Mod. Snow
	Southwest Rib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Elevation:	7,807 ft	2,380 m
GPS:	48.51216, -120.65513 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	165,714 total · 813/month
Shared By:	blakeherrington on Sep 18, 2008 · Updates
Admins:	Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

South Early Winters Spire is the highest summit of the Liberty Bell Group. Just South of the 'North Spire', rock is excellent granite and there are routes on all sides. The South Arete, SW Couloir, and SW Rib are very popular. With an easy approach up the Blue Lake Trail, or from the hairpin turn on Hwy 20, SEWS features many very accessible routes.

FA via the Southwest Couloir on July 20, 1937. Kenneth Adam, Rafi Bedayn, and W. Kenneth Davis. The summit is at 7807'.

Getting There

Blue Lake Trail - ~1 hour of hiking on the trail leads to a meadow and opening on the NW side of the spire, with a wooden "Liberty Bell trail 727" sign. Leave the maintained trail here, and head up and left on obvious climber paths. The SEWS is the rightmost of the obvious peaks, but the trail to it splits from the Liberty Bell trail fairly high up (around 7000').

Getting to routes on the East side of the peak is best accomplished via parking at the hairpin turn on hwy 20, and following easy gullies, climber trails, and open alpine terrain to the obvious base of the spire.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Early Winters Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

Mod. Snow 21 ● Southwest Couloir Snow, Alpine
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 267 ● South Arete Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 546 ● Southwest Rib Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 72 ● Boving Roofs Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 142 ● Direct East Buttress Trad, Aid, Alpine 9 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 158 ● The Hitchhiker Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 27 ● Northwest Face (Boving-Pollock) Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 14 ● Free Mojo Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 43 ● The Passenger Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 21 ● Southern Man Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c 5 ● Backseat Driver Trad, Alpine 7 pitches