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South Early Winters Spire Rock Climbing
Routes in South Early Winters Spire
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Boving Roofs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Direct East Buttress T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hitchhiker, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Northwest Face (Boving-Pollock) T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Passenger, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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South Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Southern Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Southwest Couloir Mod. Snow |
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Southwest Rib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Elevation: | 7,807 ft |
| GPS: | 48.512, -120.655 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 63,259 total · 524/month |
| Shared By: | blakeherrington on Sep 18, 2008 |
| Admins: | Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick |
Description
South Early Winters Spire is the highest summit of the Liberty Bell Group. Just South of the 'North Spire', rock is excellent granite and there are routes on all sides. The South Arete, SW Couloir, and SW Rib are very popular. With an easy approach up the Blue Lake Trail, or from the hairpin turn on Hwy 20, SEWS features many very accessible routes.
FA via the Southwest Couloir on July 20, 1937. Kenneth Adam, Rafi Bedayn, and W. Kenneth Davis. The summit is at 7807'.
FA via the Southwest Couloir on July 20, 1937. Kenneth Adam, Rafi Bedayn, and W. Kenneth Davis. The summit is at 7807'.
Getting There
Blue Lake Trail - ~1 hour of hiking on the trail leads to a meadow and opening on the NW side of the spire. Leave the maintained trail here, and head up and left on obvious climber paths. The SEWS is the rightmost of the obvious peaks.
Getting to routes on the East side of the peak is best accomplished via parking at the hairpin turn on hwy 20, and following easy gullies, climber trails, and open alpine terrain to the obvious base of the spire.
Getting to routes on the East side of the peak is best accomplished via parking at the hairpin turn on hwy 20, and following easy gullies, climber trails, and open alpine terrain to the obvious base of the spire.
Classic Climbing Routes at South Early Winters Spire
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
2 Comments
More About South Early Winters Spire
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Guidebooks (1)
If we had gone 2 weeks earlier or 2 weeks later probably would have been fine lol
Basically we heard how easy the approach was and took it for granted. Now that I now whats up there I'm sure I'll have no trouble next time. But if you've never been up to this area and you happen to go at the wrong time... Also the ovious climbers trail from the clearing is very easy to find, but probably expect another hour to the base of the climbs. All the beta I read made it sound like it was way shorter. Don't get me wrong it shouldn't be a bad approach, just wanted other people to avoid the mistakes we made, the internet made it sound so easy I racked up at the car and shouldered the rope
Super beautiful area Jun 7, 2016
But of course, now all of these may be moot points....but what an absolutely awesome place! I had only been on Liberty Crack before so never been on that side of the mountain....early start on Early Winter is the way to go:)...as always. Jun 11, 2016