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Routes in Chianti Spire

East Face / Rebel Yell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jim Nelson and Carl Dietrich 1986
Page Views: 9,303 total, 83/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Sep 17, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

A 6 pitch line leading up striking splitter cracks. There are at least two starts possible, before joining at P3.

Traditional start:
P1/P2 - Follow the large left-facing dihedral with orange rock on the right, and grey on the left. The crack is wide, but protects well. 5.8-5.9

Left Variation:

P1 - Aim for the clean white left-facing corner to the left of the long orange, traditional start. One long pitch gets you up into the perfect finger crack and to a small stance below a chimney. Save yellow alien sized cams for the last 20 feet. 5.10b

P2 - A few well-protected chimney moves lead up to a horizontal break on the face above. Cut your feet loose and swing out wildly to the right, follow the crack up and right to join the original start in the major corner. 5.9

P3 - Up The lower angle dihedral with face climbing and flakes. Belay before the route forces you to move left. 5.7

P4 - Up the dihedral to a blind leftward step-across move. Keep working left to a ledge below a thin-hands splitter. 5.8

P5 - Up the obvious crack, going from .75" to 4" to a small ledge and bolted belay. 5.10

P6 - Continue up the 4" crack, using face features and the corners, and eventually landing out on top next to the summit block.

Location

From Burgundy Col, descend down a short snow step and traverse south below the East Face of Burgundy spire, over a small snowy rib, and to the obvious east side of Chianti.

Descent is made via rappelling the route on fixed anchors. Two ropes are recommended, one might be possible. Generally descend to the rappeller's right.

Protection

Gear to 4" with doubles from yello alien to #4 C4 camalot.

Ice axe will be handy for most of the year, all gear can be stashed at the base of the climb.
Downtownt Kay
Everett, WA
Downtownt Kay   Everett, WA
What a fun day out!
Depending on comfort level and experience, an ax or poles would have been nice on the snow after the col. It was warm and sunny and we kicked in steps, but our approach/descent would have been faster with one. (Though then we probably wouldn't have done the sledding on the way out!)

P1: From the base, a 60m wont quite get you to the base of the chimney pitch, (we had climber go in direct while the belayer would be scrambled up about 7M) but with short and fun shenanigans you can make it. This pitch was top notch. the crack is so fun!

P2/3: I though this pitch was the physical crux of the climb. (gotta love 5.9+) Thrutching chimney and the party ahead of us got their rope stuck in the traversing R crack, (place a directional if possible). Leader accidentally combined these pitches.

P4: Mental crux, the blind move is scary(!) especially if you're short. The ringing blocks after it should have you moving daintily with speed.

P5: THIS pitch is a lot of fun! I don't know what exactly was 10b/c about it. (also note 1 bolt at "bolted belay" and a nut) We linked this and half of the last pitch, to a comfy ledge/ramp left of the splitter #4s. (yeah forearm/bicep locks!!)

P6: I think we took the harder version into a #4 and wider crack up and right to another traverse on some sharp dirty lichen-y rock. Very cool climbing, and as a follower was definitely no-fall territory on a twin half. Rock was sharp and crack were deep.

(Didn't do the summit block).
Bring a bottle of chianti for the summit of chianti! Aug 21, 2017
Hans
Squamish, BC
Hans   Squamish, BC
Some beta:

On August 9, 2017 it was very easy to reach the start of the route from Burgundy Col without crampons or ice axe. Cold weather might change this.

There was running water at the base of the route.

Watch for rope eating flakes on the rappels.

The gear beta above is spot on.

The pitch breakdown above can be improved. In my opinion P1 above should be split into two pitches, and P3, P4, and P5 above should be two pitches and not three.
Some better beta:
P1 - 5.9 55m - Take the left variation past a fun roof/bulge to a stance and fixed anchor (tat) below the base of the 10b finger/hand crack.
P2 - 5.10b 15m - Layback and jam the beautiful crack to a stance and fixed anchor.
P3 - 5.9 30m - Thrutch up the chimney, make the wild hand traverse and then move right to the corner system. Climb this corner to a good ledge on the right.
P4 - 5.8 30m - Climb up for ~20m then move left around a corner to another crack and a belay at a fixed anchor.
Note that these pitches 3 and 4 can just be combined with a 60m rope.
P5 and P6 are as described above - P5 felt easier than the 5.10b of P2. Aug 11, 2017
aleday
 
aleday  
 
Wonderful splitters, great variety: perfect fingers, to thin hands, to hands to butterflies [splitter camelot #4] and even a squeeze. Doubles fingers to 4 was good beta. As of 16 Sep 2016, there seemed to be quite a bit of fresh rock fall at the base from the granite apron below the route and from the neighboring gully to the west of Chianti, as well as large chunks of the surrounding glacier/snowfields liberated from surrounding slopes. Approach made through Silver Star drainage without use or need of axe or crampons, as though we did encounter some firm neve and snow, it could either be avoided with minimally circuitous walking, or traversed with care and mild trepidation.

That said, to those considering an approach through the Silver Star drainage, I can only label such a strategy as "not recommended." That said, the descent off the Burgundy Col looked pretty broken and loose. On route, much of the old tat was removed and replaced, but feel free to continue improvement. Sep 17, 2016
Drewsky  
Really nice route. Every pitch has high quality crack climbing in a variety of styles and the rock is mostly stellar. We pitched it out a bit differently than described here but I think this would be a better way to do it. The webbing at the bolted (rappel) stations could use some love or maybe be replaced with something with more longevity. The second rappel station (belay station for 10c pitch) includes one good bolt and a nut that while stuck well enough in the crack that I couldn't clean it to do so, really needs to be reset. Ice axes are nice for the snow but later in the season I could see wanting crampons. I think it would be possible in late season to mostly skirt around the steepest part of the snowfield in front of Burgundy Spire. Aug 13, 2016
mravits  
Great route! Just a note of caution: be careful when tossing your ropes for the first rappel from the summit, maybe even saddle bag them. We got our rope stuck about thirty feet above the belay for P5, which is also the 2nd rap station. The crack is wide and narrows significantly in the back and there were remnants of other ropes stuck in the exact same spot. Upon talking to other folks who have done the same thing, it seems like this is not an uncommon spot to get ropes stuck. We lucked out and worked it loose but it was a close call! Aug 4, 2015
Climbed this (excellent) route on 9-14-13. Some useful beta: There was running water available at many points along the approach as well as directly below the route. Axe seemed mandatory for the approach/descent, but crampons weren't necessary on the day we climbed it (sunny and warm). We did the left side start, but broke it up into two pitches, which is how I would do it next time as well (due to rope drag issues, primarily). Second pitch of the left start was the crux of the route for us. Strenuous but good fun. Sep 16, 2013
Keenan Waeschle
Bozeman, MT
Keenan Waeschle   Bozeman, MT
you probably want crampons to go along with the ice ax. that snow pitch off the col is pretty damn steep. Aug 1, 2011