Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jim Nelson and Carl Dietrich 1986
Page Views: 14,956 total · 97/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Sep 17, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details

Description

A 6 pitch line leading up striking splitter cracks. There are at least two starts possible, before joining at P3.

Traditional start:
P1/P2 - Follow the large left-facing dihedral with orange rock on the right, and grey on the left. The crack is wide, but protects well. 5.8-5.9

Left Variation:

P1 - Aim for the clean white left-facing corner to the left of the long orange, traditional start. One long pitch gets you up into the perfect finger crack and to a small stance below a chimney. Save yellow alien sized cams for the last 20 feet. 5.10b

P2 - A few well-protected chimney moves lead up to a horizontal break on the face above. Cut your feet loose and swing out wildly to the right, follow the crack up and right to join the original start in the major corner. 5.9

P3 - Up The lower angle dihedral with face climbing and flakes. Belay before the route forces you to move left. 5.7

P4 - Up the dihedral to a blind leftward step-across move. Keep working left to a ledge below a thin-hands splitter. 5.8

P5 - Up the obvious crack, going from .75" to 4" to a small ledge and bolted belay. 5.10

P6 - Continue up the 4" crack, using face features and the corners, and eventually landing out on top next to the summit block.

Location

From Burgundy Col, descend down a short snow step and traverse south below the East Face of Burgundy spire, over a small snowy rib, and to the obvious east side of Chianti.

Descent is made via rappelling the route on fixed anchors. Two ropes are recommended, one might be possible. Generally descend to the rappeller's right.

Protection

Gear to 4" with doubles from yello alien to #4 C4 camalot.

Ice axe will be handy for most of the year, all gear can be stashed at the base of the climb.

Photos