Avg: 3.3 from 43 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||1940 Fred Beckey, Helmy Beckey, Jim Crooks, Dave Lind, Lloyd Anderson|
|Page Views:||9,507 total · 95/month|
|Shared By:||Adrian Lazar on Aug 11, 2011|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
From camp, ascend north towards Forbidden's South Face. Reach a notch in the ridge and go left around the first gendarme. You'll reach a bivy spot where you can leave your boots+crampons,etc.
From the bivy spot climb a few pitches of low class 5. Climb up a second gendarme and knife edge ridge. After climbing the third gendarme you'll need to rappel into a narrow notch, there's plenty of tat. The third gendarme can be avoided by climbing around it on the north side. The second last pitch is the crux pitch, 5.8 (nothing difficult).
The great rock provides awesome holds.
Descent the north side by rapping and traversing climber's right. We made 5 rappels and simul climbed until we reached the bivy site where we stored our gear.