Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Forbidden Peak

East Ridge Direct T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
NW Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
West Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: 1940 Fred Beckey, Helmy Beckey, Jim Crooks, Dave Lind, Lloyd Anderson
Page Views: 6,822 total, 89/month
Shared By: Adrian Lazar on Aug 11, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


32 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A great alpine climb easily accessible (~4-5h from car park).

From camp, ascend north towards Forbidden's South Face. Reach a notch in the ridge and go left around the first gendarme. You'll reach a bivy spot where you can leave your boots+crampons,etc.

From the bivy spot climb a few pitches of low class 5. Climb up a second gendarme and knife edge ridge. After climbing the third gendarme you'll need to rappel into a narrow notch, there's plenty of tat. The third gendarme can be avoided by climbing around it on the north side. The second last pitch is the crux pitch, 5.8 (nothing difficult).

The great rock provides awesome holds.

Descent the north side by rapping and traversing climber's right. We made 5 rappels and simul climbed until we reached the bivy site where we stored our gear.

Location

Forbidden Peak, located in Boston Basin, east of Marblemount on the Cascade River Road

Protection

A set of cams, half a set of nuts (small nuts), lots of slings.
I did, to my unhappy surprise, pull a 5'x3' block off of the ridge (mid July). Beautiful ridge. I would definitly go back. Aug 16, 2017
Zak Krenzer
Auburn, WA
  5.8
Zak Krenzer   Auburn, WA
  5.8
Climbed this recently and pitched out the entire ridge. The climbing took around 5 hours for approx. 8 pitches of ridge scrambling. We brought doubles fingers to #1 camalot, a single #2 & #3 with a handful of wires. Finger sized pieces were very helpful, the hand sizes weren't as useful. Maybe ditch the #3. Lots of double length runners, and a few singles, we brought 4 double length runners and used them frequently. Big loose triangular block on the crux pitch, be careful what you pull on!

We descended the East Ledges, which are not as dramatic as everyone makes them out to be. I will say, that it is a no fall zone and there is plenty of loose rock on it. There are 5 raps, each of which are between 25-30 meters, don't quit rapping too soon. Scramble and traverse a series of sandy, grassy ledges for several hundred meters until you see the first gendarme. Once you reach the gully, simply ascend 4th class blocks to the beginning of the route, no need to actually enter that loose gully. Descent took ~2 hours unroped from the last rap. Jul 6, 2016
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
  5.8- PG13
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
  5.8- PG13
I felt there was very sub par rock quality in quite a few places though and I didn't find any of the technical climbing to have memorable movement (the complete NR of Stuart may have ruined ridge climbs for me). However this was compensated with great position, lots of exposure, and a beautiful setting.

We did a carry over with our boots/pointy bits and simul climbed down the west ridge as the east ledges were thinly snow covered and quite sketchy. This made for a much more interesting alpine climb than late in the year when you're doing more choss dodging. You'll get some steep snow, if it's nearly melted out maybe some mixed climb stemming to get up a vertical moat too :) Jul 5, 2016
Liz Donley
Boulder, CO
  5.8 PG13
Liz Donley   Boulder, CO
  5.8 PG13
Fairly safe but time consuming to descend the west ridge. Good judgement and route finding skills needed! The exposure and position were great, but the rock quality was sometimes not the best (in my opinion). I agree with the type II fun comment! The approach and descent were quite strenuous for the number of pitches of technical climbing that you get on the climb. Great exercise, for sure! Jul 9, 2015
Nick Seaman
Denver, CO
 
Nick Seaman   Denver, CO
 
Classic route in a classic setting! We stayed true to the ridgeline the whole climb and found the rock to be of good quality minus one or two loose easy sections. The real fun (type 2) begins after leaving the summit. I've read that some climbers find the descent down the East Ledges "loose and stressful", and I totally agree. Intense exposure and unprotectable loose scrambling in the no fall zone make for a full-on descent. However, if you can keep your sh!t together it's not that bad, and I would use this descent option in the future. Mar 6, 2014
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.8- PG13
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.8- PG13
I actually thought this was a better route than its famous neighbor. We went directly over each gendarme, there's some suspect rock at a few points. Note that descent via 5 raps down east ledges gets very dangerous once "3rd classing" begins. Aug 5, 2013
I found the rock to be pretty good with ample gear. The climb is largely a rising traverse, so there's nearly equal risk for the follower as for the leader.

Note that you can bypass both Gendarmes on the right/east side. Done this way the whole climb can go at 5.6 or so.

Have your descent figured out!! There's no easy way off Forbidden, so whether you descend the East Ledges, or downclimb the West Ridge (or some more obscure option), when you reach the summit, you are no more than halfway through your day. Aug 25, 2011
Daniel Coltrane
Seattle, WA
  5.8
Daniel Coltrane   Seattle, WA
  5.8
Why would this be rated PG-13? The gear is good and there are no substantial runouts on hard ground. Aug 19, 2011