Type: Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: 1940 Fred Beckey, Helmy Beckey, Jim Crooks, Dave Lind, Lloyd Anderson
Page Views: 12,541 total · 101/month
Shared By: Adrian Lazar on Aug 11, 2011
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details


A great alpine climb easily accessible (~4-5h from car park).

From camp, ascend north towards Forbidden's South Face. Reach a notch in the ridge and go left around the first gendarme. You'll reach a bivy spot where you can leave your boots+crampons,etc.

From the bivy spot climb a few pitches of low class 5. Climb up a second gendarme and knife edge ridge. After climbing the third gendarme you'll need to rappel into a narrow notch, there's plenty of tat. The third gendarme can be avoided by climbing around it on the north side. The second last pitch is the crux pitch, 5.8 (nothing difficult).

The great rock provides awesome holds.

Descent the north side by rapping and traversing climber's right. We made 5 rappels and simul climbed until we reached the bivy site where we stored our gear.


Forbidden Peak, located in Boston Basin, east of Marblemount on the Cascade River Road


A set of cams, half a set of nuts (small nuts), lots of slings.