Type: Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Paul Boving, Steve Pollack
Page Views: 25,319 total · 133/month
Shared By: Lizzy Trower on Jan 30, 2006
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details


Typically done in 5 pitches, some can be strung together to do it in 4. There are some wide bits, but they are actually quite fun and don't require the use of wide crack techniques. The climb starts by scrambling up a trail traversing north along the base of North Early Winter to the base of a corner/crack that leads up to a ledge with lots of trees.

 P1 - Climb the crack/corner to the ledge. Part of it is a chimney that doesn't have much in terms of protection, but this section is short and fairly easy. 

P2 - From the left edge of the ledge, continue up and left through some more trees and up a corner to another belay ledge. 

P3 - Continue up a left-leading flake/wide crack (remember the big gear!!!) to another belay ledge with many slings wrapped around the tip of a small pillar. You don't want to skip this belay because you will want to have all your big gear for the next pitch. 

P4 - Continue up the "surprisingly secure offwidth" pitch. It seems like the best way to do this pitch is to smear up the face and stick your right arm in the crack for balance. Continue up to another sloping ledge below a roof. 

P5 - Traverse leftwards around the roof (watch rope drag!) and continue up the crack system as the angle eases and you reach the summit.


A standard trad rack to 4" or 5". As usual on alpine routes, make sure to bring long runners to help reduce rope drag on the long, sometimes traversing pitches.