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North Early Winter Spire Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in North Early Winter Spire

L › R R › L A › Z

	Chockstone Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M1+ Easy Snow
	Early Winter Couloir T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2-3 M4+ A1
	Flycatcher Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Labor Pains T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-Pollack Route) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	West Face, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c

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Elevation:	7,760 ft
GPS:	48.51291, -120.65557 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	67,200 total · 322/month
Shared By:	Lizzy Trower on Jan 30, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details

Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.

Description

Nearly as impressive as its neighbor, the North Early Winter Spire tends to be less popular because it has no easy way up or down. Nevertheless, it has many excellent routes and the summit view is great. The quality of the granite is very good. The summit is at 7760'.

Getting There

Most of the routes on North Early Winter are on the west side, so approaching via the Blue Lake Trail is best - approach SEWS and traverse left along the base. The approach will take most parties 1-2 hours. The descent route scrambles down south and west of the summit, then takes several rappels down to the Southwest Coulour between North and South Early Winter, from which some scrambling and one more short rappel bring you back to the ground.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at North Early Winter Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2-3 M4+ A1 6 ● Early Winter Couloir Trad, Aid, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 216 ● Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-… Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 6 ● Flycatcher Buttress Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 3 ● Labor Pains Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 263 ● The West Face Trad, Alpine 6 pitches