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Areas in Washington Pass

Concord Tower 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 4
Cutthroat Lake Crags 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 2
Cutthroat Peak 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 4
Hairpin Crags 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 4
Kangaroo Temple 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 2
Le Petit Cheval 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3
Lexington Tower 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3
Liberty Bell 15 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 15 / 15
M&M wall (AKA "Supercave Wall") 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 4
North Early Winter Spire 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1 / 1 / 5 / 5
Pernod Spire 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Poster Peak 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Silver Star and connected spires 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 11 / 11
South Early Winters Spire 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 9
Summertime Crag 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 6
Elevation: 6,959 ft
GPS: 48.512, -120.654 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 239,675 total, 1,661/month
Shared By: Lizzy Trower on Jan 30, 2006 with updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

Description

The Washington Pass area includes some spectacular and easily accessible alpine granite climbs, ranging in difficulty from the 5.4-rated South Arete of South Early Winter and to hard 5.12 climbs such as the Thin Red Line on Liberty Bell and the Tiger on M&M Wall. The area also has classic aid routes such as Liberty Crack on Liberty Bell.

The area is centered around Washington Pass on the North Cascades Highway, extending east to the Wine Spires and West to Liberty Bell and the Early Winter Spires. The quality of the rock is in general great and the summit views excellent. The best season for climbing here is late June through September. Snow and ice might still be present early in the season.

Getting There

From Twisp, drive north on Highway 20 through Mazama and up to Washington Pass. The highway takes a very obvious hairpin turn just below the peaks. The east faces are best approached by parking at the Washington Pass Overlook and ascending a trail starting across the road from the pullout. The west faces are more easily approached by driving a little further up Highway 20 and parking in the lot for the Blue Lake Trail. The climbers' trail breaks off left from the main Blue Lake trail as it bends right towards the lake.

74 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Washington Pass

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
South Arete
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Beckey Route (SW Face)
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southwest Rib
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Ridge
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-Polla…
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
NW Face
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
East Face
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Face / Rebel Yell
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Clean Break
Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Direct East Buttress
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
The West Face
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
The Hitchhiker
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C2
Liberty Crack
Trad, Aid, Alpine 12 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Ellen Pea
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Thin Red Line (Free Version)
Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
South Arete S Early Winters Spire 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Beckey Route (SW Face) Liberty Bell 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Southwest Rib S Early Winters Spire 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
West Ridge Silver Star and c… > Paisano Pinnacle 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Bo… N Early Winter Spire 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
NW Face Liberty Bell 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
East Face Lexington Tower 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
East Face / Rebel Yell Silver Star and c… > Chianti Spire 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Clean Break Silver Star and c… > Juno Tower 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
Direct East Buttress S Early Winters Spire 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
The West Face N Early Winter Spire 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
The Hitchhiker S Early Winters Spire 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Liberty Crack Liberty Bell 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C2 Trad, Aid, Alpine 12 pitches
Ellen Pea M&M wall (AKA "Supercave Wall") 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Thin Red Line (Free Version) Liberty Bell 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
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sqwirll
Las Vegas
sqwirll   Las Vegas
We did a fun linkup of all 5 spires this summer. We climbed the Beckey route on Liberty, North face of Concord, North Face of Lexington, NW Corner of NEWS, and SW Rib of SEWS. We ended up simulclimbing Liberty Bell, Concord, Lexington, and most of SEWS. It took us approximately 15 hours car to car at a casual pace. Two ropes are beneficial for the rappels off of Concord and Lexington, otherwise you'd have to leave gear. A fun way to get 20+ pitches of moderate climbing in a day. Oct 21, 2008

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