Elevation: 6,959 ft
GPS: 48.512, -120.654 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 560,390 total · 3,176/month
Shared By: Lizzy Trower on Jan 30, 2006 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

Description

The Washington Pass area includes some spectacular and easily accessible alpine granite climbs, ranging in difficulty from the 5.4-rated South Arete of South Early Winter and to hard 5.12 climbs such as the Thin Red Line on Liberty Bell and the Tiger on M&M Wall. The area also has classic aid routes such as Liberty Crack on Liberty Bell.

The area is centered around Washington Pass on the North Cascades Highway, extending east to the Wine Spires and West to Liberty Bell and the Early Winter Spires. The quality of the rock is in general great and the summit views excellent. The best season for climbing here is late June through September. Snow and ice might still be present early in the season.

Getting There

From Twisp, drive north on Highway 20 through Mazama and up to Washington Pass. The highway takes a very obvious hairpin turn just below the peaks. The east faces are best approached by parking at the Washington Pass Overlook and ascending a trail starting across the road from the pullout. The west faces are more easily approached by driving a little further up Highway 20 and parking in the lot for the Blue Lake Trail. The climbers' trail breaks off left from the main Blue Lake trail as it bends right towards the lake.

98 Total Climbs

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Location: Washington Pass Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Washington Pass

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 181
South Arete
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 360
Beckey Route (SW Face)
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 71
North Face
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 304
Southwest Rib
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 52
North Face
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 72
West Ridge
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 150
Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-…
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 69
NW Face
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 68
East Face
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 63
East Face / Rebel Yell
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 59
Clean Break
Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 104
Direct East Buttress
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C2
 97
Liberty Crack
Trad, Aid, Alpine 12 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 180
The West Face
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 74
The Hitchhiker
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
South Arete S Early Winters Spire
 181
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Beckey Route (SW Face) Liberty Bell
 360
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
North Face Concord Tower
 71
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Southwest Rib S Early Winters Spire
 304
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
North Face Silver Star & c… > Burgundy Spire
 52
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
West Ridge Silver Star & c… > Paisano Pinnacle
 72
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Bo… N Early Winter Spire
 150
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
NW Face Liberty Bell
 69
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
East Face Lexington Tower
 68
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
East Face / Rebel Yell Silver Star & c… > Chianti Spire
 63
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Clean Break Silver Star & c… > Juno Tower
 59
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
Direct East Buttress S Early Winters Spire
 104
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Liberty Crack Liberty Bell
 97
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C2 Trad, Aid, Alpine 12 pitches
The West Face N Early Winter Spire
 180
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
The Hitchhiker S Early Winters Spire
 74
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Washington Pass »

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