Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Areas in Washington Pass

Big Kangaroo 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Concord Tower 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 4
Cutthroat Lake Crags 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3
Cutthroat Peak 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 5
Hairpin Crags 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 4
Kangaroo Temple 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3
Le Petit Cheval 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3
Lexington Tower 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3
Liberty Bell 17 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 17 / 17
M&M wall (AKA "Supercave Wall") 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 4
North Early Winter Spire 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1 / 1 / 5 / 5
Pernod Spire 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Poster Peak 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Silver Star and connected spires 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 13 / 13
South Early Winters Spire 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 9
Summertime Crag 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 6

Description

The Washington Pass area includes some spectacular and easily accessible alpine granite climbs, ranging in difficulty from the 5.4-rated South Arete of South Early Winter and to hard 5.12 climbs such as the Thin Red Line on Liberty Bell and the Tiger on M&M Wall. The area also has classic aid routes such as Liberty Crack on Liberty Bell.

The area is centered around Washington Pass on the North Cascades Highway, extending east to the Wine Spires and West to Liberty Bell and the Early Winter Spires. The quality of the rock is in general great and the summit views excellent. The best season for climbing here is late June through September. Snow and ice might still be present early in the season.

Getting There

From Twisp, drive north on Highway 20 through Mazama and up to Washington Pass. The highway takes a very obvious hairpin turn just below the peaks. The east faces are best approached by parking at the Washington Pass Overlook and ascending a trail starting across the road from the pullout. The west faces are more easily approached by driving a little further up Highway 20 and parking in the lot for the Blue Lake Trail. The climbers' trail breaks off left from the main Blue Lake trail as it bends right towards the lake.

82 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Washington Pass Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Washington Pass

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 141
South Arete
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 281
Beckey Route (SW Face)
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 55
North Face
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 216
Southwest Rib
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 55
West Ridge
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 112
Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-…
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 52
NW Face
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 50
East Face
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 37
East Face / Rebel Yell
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 38
Clean Break
Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 78
Direct East Buttress
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C2
 73
Liberty Crack
Trad, Aid, Alpine 12 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 148
The West Face
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 41
The Hitchhiker
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 23
Thin Red Line (Free Version)
Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
South Arete S Early Winters Spire
 141
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Beckey Route (SW Face) Liberty Bell
 281
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
North Face Concord Tower
 55
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Southwest Rib S Early Winters Spire
 216
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
West Ridge Silver Star and… > Paisano Pinnacle
 55
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Bo… N Early Winter Spire
 112
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
NW Face Liberty Bell
 52
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
East Face Lexington Tower
 50
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
East Face / Rebel Yell Silver Star and… > Chianti Spire
 37
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Clean Break Silver Star and… > Juno Tower
 38
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
Direct East Buttress S Early Winters Spire
 78
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Liberty Crack Liberty Bell
 73
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C2 Trad, Aid, Alpine 12 pitches
The West Face N Early Winter Spire
 148
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
The Hitchhiker S Early Winters Spire
 41
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Thin Red Line (Free Version) Liberty Bell
 23
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Washington Pass »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
sqwirll
Las Vegas
sqwirll   Las Vegas
We did a fun linkup of all 5 spires this summer. We climbed the Beckey route on Liberty, North face of Concord, North Face of Lexington, NW Corner of NEWS, and SW Rib of SEWS. We ended up simulclimbing Liberty Bell, Concord, Lexington, and most of SEWS. It took us approximately 15 hours car to car at a casual pace. Two ropes are beneficial for the rappels off of Concord and Lexington, otherwise you'd have to leave gear. A fun way to get 20+ pitches of moderate climbing in a day. Oct 21, 2008

More About Washington Pass

Printer-Friendly
What's New
Guidebooks (1)

All Photos Within Washington Pass (531)

Most Popular · Newest · Random