Elevation: 6,959 ft
GPS: 48.512, -120.654 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 623,427 total · 3,451/month
Shared By: Lizzy Trower on Jan 30, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

Description

The Washington Pass area includes some spectacular and easily accessible alpine granite climbs, ranging in difficulty from the 5.4-rated South Arete of South Early Winter and to hard 5.12 climbs such as the Thin Red Line on Liberty Bell and the Tiger on M&M Wall. The area also has classic aid routes such as Liberty Crack on Liberty Bell.

The area is centered around Washington Pass on the North Cascades Highway, extending east to the Wine Spires and West to Liberty Bell and the Early Winter Spires. The quality of the rock is in general great and the summit views excellent. The best season for climbing here is late June through September. Snow and ice might still be present early in the season.

Getting There

From Twisp, drive north on Highway 20 through Mazama and up to Washington Pass. The highway takes a very obvious hairpin turn just below the peaks. The east faces are best approached by parking at the Washington Pass Overlook and ascending a trail starting across the road from the pullout. The west faces are more easily approached by driving a little further up Highway 20 and parking in the lot for the Blue Lake Trail. The climbers' trail breaks off left from the main Blue Lake trail as it bends right towards the lake.

101 Total Climbs

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Location: Washington Pass Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Washington Pass

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 198
South Arete
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 396
Beckey Route (SW Face)
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 83
North Face
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 348
Southwest Rib
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 60
Rapple Grapple
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 79
West Ridge
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 165
Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-…
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 83
Northwest Face
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 77
East Face
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 68
East Face / Rebel Yell
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 69
Clean Break
Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
 113
Direct East Buttress
Trad, Aid, Alpine 9 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C2
 101
Liberty Crack
Trad, Aid, Alpine 12 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 204
The West Face
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 88
The Hitchhiker
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
South Arete Liberty Bell Group > S Early Winters Spire
 198
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Beckey Route (SW Face) Liberty Bell Group > Liberty Bell
 396
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
North Face Liberty Bell Group > Concord Tower
 83
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Southwest Rib Liberty Bell Group > S Early Winters Spire
 348
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Rapple Grapple Liberty Bell Group > Liberty Bell
 60
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
West Ridge Silver Star & W… > Paisano Pinnacle
 79
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Bo… Liberty Bell Group > N Early Winter Spire
 165
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Northwest Face Liberty Bell Group > Liberty Bell
 83
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
East Face Liberty Bell Group > Lexington Tower
 77
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
East Face / Rebel Yell Silver Star & W… > Chianti Spire
 68
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Clean Break Silver Star & W… > Juno Tower
 69
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
Direct East Buttress Liberty Bell Group > S Early Winters Spire
 113
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 Trad, Aid, Alpine 9 pitches
Liberty Crack Liberty Bell Group > Liberty Bell
 101
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C2 Trad, Aid, Alpine 12 pitches
The West Face Liberty Bell Group > N Early Winter Spire
 204
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
The Hitchhiker Liberty Bell Group > S Early Winters Spire
 88
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Washington Pass »

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