Elevation: 6,959 ft
GPS: 48.512, -120.654 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 758,436 total · 3,933/month
Shared By: Lizzy Trower on Jan 30, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details

Description

The Washington Pass area includes some spectacular and easily accessible alpine granite climbs, ranging in difficulty from the 5.4-rated South Arete of South Early Winter and to hard 5.12 climbs such as the Thin Red Line on Liberty Bell and the Tiger on M&M Wall. The area also has classic aid routes such as Liberty Crack on Liberty Bell.

The area is centered around Washington Pass on the North Cascades Highway, extending east to the Wine Spires and West to Liberty Bell and the Early Winter Spires. The quality of the rock is in general great and the summit views excellent. The best season for climbing here is late June through September. Snow and ice might still be present early in the season.

Getting There

From Twisp, drive north on Highway 20 through Mazama and up to Washington Pass. The highway takes a very obvious hairpin turn just below the peaks. The east faces are best approached by parking at the Washington Pass Overlook and ascending a trail starting across the road from the pullout. The west faces are more easily approached by driving a little further up Highway 20 and parking in the lot for the Blue Lake Trail. The climbers' trail breaks off left from the main Blue Lake trail as it bends right towards the lake.

106 Total Climbs

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Location: Washington Pass Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Washington Pass

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 218
South Arete
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 439
Beckey Route (SW Face)
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 92
North Face
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 400
Southwest Rib
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 71
Rapple Grapple
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 84
West Ridge
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 192
Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-…
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 94
Northwest Face
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 83
East Face
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 76
East Face / Rebel Yell
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 72
Clean Break
Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
 120
Direct East Buttress
Trad, Aid, Alpine 9 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C2
 106
Liberty Crack
Trad, Aid, Alpine 12 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 228
The West Face
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 106
The Hitchhiker
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
South Arete Liberty Bell Group > S Early Winters Spire
 218
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Beckey Route (SW Face) Liberty Bell Group > Liberty Bell
 439
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
North Face Liberty Bell Group > Concord Tower
 92
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Southwest Rib Liberty Bell Group > S Early Winters Spire
 400
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Rapple Grapple Liberty Bell Group > Liberty Bell
 71
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
West Ridge Silver Star & W… > Paisano Pinnacle
 84
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Bo… Liberty Bell Group > N Early Winter Spire
 192
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Northwest Face Liberty Bell Group > Liberty Bell
 94
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
East Face Liberty Bell Group > Lexington Tower
 83
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
East Face / Rebel Yell Silver Star & W… > Chianti Spire
 76
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Clean Break Silver Star & W… > Juno Tower
 72
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
Direct East Buttress Liberty Bell Group > S Early Winters Spire
 120
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 Trad, Aid, Alpine 9 pitches
Liberty Crack Liberty Bell Group > Liberty Bell
 106
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C2 Trad, Aid, Alpine 12 pitches
The West Face Liberty Bell Group > N Early Winter Spire
 228
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
The Hitchhiker Liberty Bell Group > S Early Winters Spire
 106
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Washington Pass »

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