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Routes in Liberty Bell

A Slave To Liberty T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Beckey Route (SW Face) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Freedom Rider T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Freedom or Death T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Girl Next Door, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Liberty Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C2
Liberty Crack Free T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Liberty and Injustice for All T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Live Free or Die!™ T V5+ 6C+
NW Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
NW Face Var. (Remsberg Variation) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Overexposure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rapple Grapple T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Serpentine Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Thin Red Line (Free Version) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 650 ft, 5 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Mikey Schaefer
Page Views: 2,780 total · 61/month
Shared By: Mikey Schaefer on Sep 12, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

Liberty and Injustice takes a line 10m or so to the right of Thin Red Line. It is characterized by solid edges and thin crack features. It has a distinctly different feel than either Liberty Crack of TRL. The cruxes are mostly short boulder problems that lead to good holds and progressively easier climbing. Both of the 5.12- cruxes also come at the beginning of the pitches which should make them fairly easy to workout and then send.

Two of the pitches share climbing with Liberty Loop, an obscure aid route established by Pete Doorish, Chris Chandler and Jim Langdon in 1975. A couple of their old 3/16" bolts can be seen along the way. A couple of the bolts snapped right off with a slight touch of the hammer!

The gear is a mix of bolts and small cams. Some may find the small cams to be tricky to place but they are solid once they go in. Overall the protection is very solid but the occasional move has to be done above your gear.

After 5 pitches (about 200m of climbing) it joins at the top of pitch 7 on Thin Red Line. Future parties can either continue on or rappel with two ropes from here. The rap is straightforward. From the top of P3 skip the P2 anchor and go straight to the P1 anchor. All anchors are two bolts with fixed biners.

I established this route solo over 8 days of work. I'd planned on doing it ground up but after a fair bit of consideration I thought that pre-inspection would create a better overall experience and would reduce the risk of a botched and contrived route. I'm pleased with how it turned out. I redpointed the route rope solo which definitely added to the excitement and challenge for me! It turns out it is kinda scary to not have anyone holding the break strand of the Gri-gri when you are pulling tenuous moves of 5.12....

Protection [Suggest Change]

Bolts and Small camming units with a few stoppers.

14 draws and long slings primarily for pitch 1.
Drewsky
  5.12- PG13
Drewsky  
  5.12- PG13
Badass route, Mikey: really impressive! We had a great time up there though we didn't quite finish it, nor did we climb all the pitches clean. Never truly runout, there's definitely plenty of heady climbing that feels adventurous. I really appreciate the style and pacing of the route and I believe the aesthetic you adhered to in equipping it to be a precious and dying art; there are just enough bolts to adequately protect the climbing: no more, no less. Now the next day, the route is constantly on my mind and I can't wait to get back on it.

The rack recommendation is pretty spot on. I found myself maybe wanting different gear than TCUs and C4s for some of the thin placements, though they sufficed. Perhaps C3s would work better for a few spots, although I have little experience with those. Jun 8, 2015
Mikey Schaefer
Terrebonne, OR
 
Mikey Schaefer   Terrebonne, OR
 
That's great you went up there Andrew and I'm glad you appreciate the bolting. What did you think of the first pitch? I know its kinda long and circuitous but I thought it made the most sense that way.

And you are right about the TCUs. I actually use a mix of TCU's and C3's. And without a doubt the shallower C3 is nicer for a handful of the placements. Jun 8, 2015
Drewsky
  5.12- PG13
Drewsky  
  5.12- PG13
It seemed like pitch one needed to wander to pass the roof zone and still avoid most or all of the junkier rock to the right of the start. I thought it was good. The questing that has to be done really just adds to the ambiance on the first couple of pitches. Jun 9, 2015
kerwinl
  5.12 PG13
kerwinl  
  5.12 PG13
Amazing route, I cant believe this existed up there for all those years without getting some attention. I thought this was a touch harder then Thin Red Line overall, if compared in overall difficulty when the routes join, but not my much.

The protection is all there when you need it, although it tends to be hidden and not visible from below. Bring at least 13-14 draws/slings for the first pitch, we only had 11 and we got really bad rope drag. After P1, only 10-11 draws/slings are needed.

All of the belay stances are pretty nice (no hanging), so pulling the rope or working pitches is comfortable for both climbers.

CAW CAW!! Jul 20, 2015
I was surprised that the first bolt on Pitch 4 was at least 6 inches out of my reach from the last reasonable foothold. I thought I was only marginally smaller than Mikey. Jul 24, 2015
Mikey Schaefer
Terrebonne, OR
 
Mikey Schaefer   Terrebonne, OR
 
Kerwin, that's good beta for the longs slings and draws for the first pitch. Since I roped solo'd it I didn't use any and never thought I should mention to bring a lot. I updated the page to reflect this.

Maybe I've gotten taller Ben! But probably not. And yes that bolt is fairly high. I believe it is because it was an original bolt placement from Liberty Loop. I tried my hardest to not move any bolts unless absolutely necessary. I also tried to keep the bolt count the same on the sections the routes shared. Jul 27, 2015
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
  5.12- PG13
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
  5.12- PG13
As has been said, this route is a gem! I thought the hardest individual move is the crux of P2, but it's not very sustained after, so the grade makes total sense. Pitch 4 is Smith Rock edging at its best, but on perfect alpine granite. I may have stepped around the first crux on this pitch. I clipped the bolt then down-climbed right to get to the flake/left-facing corner system which we followed back left. Going direct looked a lot harder, but is probably a lot of fun. Thanks for putting up another classic! Jul 31, 2015
Mikey Schaefer
Terrebonne, OR
 
Mikey Schaefer   Terrebonne, OR
 
Max- I also stepped down and right and then followed the flake back left. I think I did the move straight up once but the line of weakness was out right so thats the way I went. Aug 9, 2015
Drewsky
  5.12- PG13
Drewsky  
  5.12- PG13
I can't believe I missed that easier path on P4. WTF, I say! Yes, the direct works fine. It's a couple of thin, tenuous moves. As Ben G and I shivered our way up the route yesterday, we cleaned some pesky loose holds off by breaking them on lead. Ben said the large undercling near bolt 2 on pitch 2 shifted as he followed the pitch, so be careful with it as it would probably land right on the belayer! Aug 16, 2015
A nice chalked block under-cling pinch just below the 4th bolt on the 1st pitch is no more, as it broke and sent me into the air just after clipping said bolt, rather unexpectedly. From here on out, combined with the bone chilling temps, I was pretty much a wimp. Good thing I had the redoubtable and hearty Philbin rope-gun.

Please take extreme care with the large undercling just below the 2nd bolt on the second pitch. I really have to use this to reach up and right to the crimps, and it definitely sounded like rice crispies when I cranked on it... It is plumb line to the belay and could be quite harmful.

First 12- pitch felt like 11d/12a. While following I was able to unclip the first draw, but unable to clean it from the side or above, so, regrettably I had to take, lower to grab the draw and do the crux again. So, for someone with 5'2 reach this will be an issue unless their partner hangs the draw and then lets the shortie lead the pitch. Perhaps a short wire/quick link could be installed to make this reasonable for us outliers (Mikey suggested such).

Last 12- pitch felt like 12b, but I couldn't feel hands or feet so who knows. I really loved the last 45 ft of the last pitch. Stunning moves.

Really fun climbing that requires brain juice. Aug 17, 2015
Sol Wertkin
Leavenworth, Washington
  5.12b PG13
Sol Wertkin   Leavenworth, Washington
  5.12b PG13
Great route! Took me four attempts over a couple seasons to put this one together. I will echo others here in praising Mikey for his vision and expertise in creating a cerebral and technical climbing experience. You gotta earn this one, each and every move.

My first go at the fifth pitch I couldn't even understand what to do (or make it to the 2nd bolt). It was a great experience piecing the moves together, then finally linking it together for the redpoint.

My partner and myself did each break a hold on the 5th pitch crux. While it goes at roughly the same grade, the 2nd clip became a bit more insecure for me, and I had to change my beta to become a bit more powerful vs technical at that next sequence. Jul 9, 2016
Nicola Masciandaro
Brooklyn, NY
 
Nicola Masciandaro   Brooklyn, NY
 
Only got on the first two pitches but the first is fun and the second is superb! Sling liberally on the first to avoid unfun drag on the cruxy traverse bit. Aug 14, 2016
June '17 I intentionally left a burly black nylon QD on the 2nd bolt of pitch 5.

That draw was always cruxy to place, especially for shorter climbers, and my partner broke another foothold while trying to reach it yesterday, sending him on his only fall of the day as he nearly landed in my lap. As the footholds through there continue to erode, I think having a draw on the bolt will make the pitch better, especially for shorter climbers. Jun 6, 2017

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