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Routes in South Early Winters Spire

Boving Roofs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Direct East Buttress T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hitchhiker, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Northwest Face (Boving-Pollock) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Passenger, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
South Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Southern Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Southwest Couloir
Southwest Rib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 900 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,477 total, 66/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Oct 30, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

The Passenger is one of the best rock climbs in the Cascades.

p1 -5.10D
Climb toward a massive roof and go left under roof clipping one bolt. Belay is bolted.

P2. 5.11bish
Roof has bolt on it. Pull roof through to the right via strange flares and campus moves. The crack above the roof has some grass and flares.


P3. 5.11- Amazing sustained finger crack to a roof/slot.

P4. 5.11+ Move left and down slightly past two bolts, Another easier runout above the 3rd bolt takes you straight up past a few more bolts to a roof. Face moves past a bolt is the route's crux, and good holds soon appear. Belay here or keep climbing right, to climb eventually up and right from the belay.

Move right, looking for a high bolt way up inside this A-Frame roof/chimney to your right. Clip bolt and move right. Step up to a small stance with dead tree and belay.

P5 5.10C
Move up and right from the belay to a crack. Soon, step back left and up into 5.10 corner and splitter. Belay above tree.

P6 5.10c

Follow thin-hand crack, becoming left-leaning ramp and corner.

p7 - 5.7 - Follow splitters and blocks up and left to the topout on the South Arete.

[ Revised P7 - Better Finish - Don't move left at the top of P6, but build a gear belay directly above, just below a solitary bolt. Move left at the bolt, into a shallow RFC/finger crack, which leads straight up to the top. ~20m 5.10-

Location

From the South Arete of the spire, head down and right (NE) along the base, eventually being forced to drop away from the foot of the wall to skirt some steeper and more broken terrain. cross the first gully, and begin at double cracks near a fir tree at the right end of a ledge. This is ~10mins of rock-shoe scrambling from the base of the S. Arete. Easy to leave packs and shoes hanging in a tree at the South Arete, the standard descent for this peak.

Protection

Doubles from thin finger cams to #2 camlot. One #3 camalot. One set of nuts.
Speaking of awkward moves, that a-frame chimney at the end of the crux pitch is weird as hell. Really wasn't sure how to climb that... Oct 14, 2017
Matt Quarre
  5.11d
Matt Quarre  
  5.11d
Great route. The crux pitch in phenomenal, with the crux boulder problem clocking in at v3 or v4 in my opinion. 11d seems right. The 2 bolts worth of slab is a great test of technical footwork. There are a fair amount of awkward moves on this climb, so be prepared to get your burl on. Oct 6, 2017
Amazing line with quality climbing and position from start to finish. Feels substantially more committing than the Hitchhiker due to the lack of bolts. Never desperate for the grade, just an entirely different character. If you're feeling like a rock star after Hitchhiker then hop over here. If, however, you were remotely stressed on Hitch then maybe wait on Passenger. The direct finish is super fun and very chill. Recommend approach from the hairpin straight up to the climb then up and over and down to Blue Lakes and thumb it down the road. Rack beta spot on. Jul 28, 2017
ahparker
Portland, OR
ahparker   Portland, OR
This route is awesome! Not a bad pitch on the entire thing, did the direct finish and that was fun as well but short. Thought the 11+ grade seemed about right. Linked 2 and 3, just be sure to sling appropriately, I ran out of slings and had heinous rope drag pulling the last .11 move through the slot. The crux pitch is delicate but not too bad and the climbing eases shortly after the second bolt. The boulder problem was powerful and well protected but not .12a in my opinion. Last bit, little PSA, I think it's worth noting that the end of the crux pitch, through the bomb bay (ish) chimney, leads out onto a giant flake that I can't tell whats holding it on, seems solid but recommend treading lightly on it, though the bomber hand jams behind it really gets you through the section. It's probably secure, but it did freak us out a bit, only bad thing I have to say for an excellent route. Jun 26, 2017
kerwinl
  5.11+
kerwinl  
  5.11+
I thought the direct finish of P7 was maybe only 5.9+, either way the direct finish is cleaning up and is a great way to finish the route vs traversing left. Sep 22, 2014
Ol Toby
CA
  5.12a
Ol Toby   CA
  5.12a
Superb route! The start is further down the gully than we originally thought. You can't simply traverse the wall from the South Arete, but rather have to head away from the wall a bit and down the gully for 10 minutes or so. Once the ledges leading up from the gully in Blake's beta photo come into view the start is obvious. The second pitch roof is a good landmark.

I linked pitches 2 and 3 with a 70M rope and had plenty left over. My partner and I agreed this was the best climbing on the route. The initial traverse on the crux pitch is quite delicate and techy. The crux boulder problem, conversely, consists of a few powerful moves to a good ledge. 12a felt about right to us but I thought the initial traverse was the harder climbing overall. The remainder of the route is sustained 5.10 crack climbing with a bit of awkward wider crack right before the traverse off left.

Blake's pitch and belay beta is right on. I didn't find the ledge indicated for the pitch 6 belay in the Supertopo, but there is a decent stance above the obvious tree at ~130 feet as the description here indicates. Jun 24, 2014