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> S Early Winters Spire
The Passenger
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.7 from 41
votes
Routes in South Early Winters Spire
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Backseat Driver T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Boving Roofs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Direct East Buttress T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 |
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Dolphin Chimney T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Free Mojo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hitchhiker, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Mojo Rising T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C1+ |
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Northwest Face (Boving-Pollock) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nothing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0 |
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Passenger, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Rubbernecker, The T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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South Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Southern Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Southwest Couloir Mod. Snow |
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Southwest Rib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 11,894 total · 69/month |
| Shared By: | blakeherrington on Oct 30, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Washington Pass Fire Closure Lifted
Details
Washington Pass Climbing was closed on 8/15/23 due to the Blue Lake Fire until further notice. On 9/7/23 this closure was reduced in size. On 9/22 this was reduced again, opening all WA Climbing Routes. For remaining closures, see:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
The Passenger is one of the best rock climbs in the Cascades.
p1 -5.10D
Climb toward a massive roof and go left under roof clipping one bolt. Belay is bolted.
P2. 5.11bish
Roof has bolt on it. Pull roof through to the right via strange flares and campus moves. The crack above the roof has some grass and flares.
P3. 5.11- Amazing sustained finger crack to a roof/slot.
P4. 5.11+ Move left and down slightly past two bolts, Another easier runout above the 3rd bolt takes you straight up past a few more bolts to a roof. Face moves past a bolt is the route's crux, and good holds soon appear. Belay here or keep climbing right, to climb eventually up and right from the belay.
Move right, looking for a high bolt way up inside this A-Frame roof/chimney to your right. Clip bolt and move right. Step up to a small stance with dead tree and belay.
P5 5.10C
Move up and right from the belay to a crack. Soon, step back left and up into 5.10 corner and splitter. Belay above tree.
P6 5.10c
Follow thin-hand crack, becoming left-leaning ramp and corner.
p7 - 5.7 - Follow splitters and blocks up and left to the topout on the South Arete.
[ Revised P7 - Better Finish - Don't move left at the top of P6, but build a gear belay directly above, just below a solitary bolt. Move left at the bolt, into a shallow RFC/finger crack, which leads straight up to the top. ~20m 5.10-
p1 -5.10D
Climb toward a massive roof and go left under roof clipping one bolt. Belay is bolted.
P2. 5.11bish
Roof has bolt on it. Pull roof through to the right via strange flares and campus moves. The crack above the roof has some grass and flares.
P3. 5.11- Amazing sustained finger crack to a roof/slot.
P4. 5.11+ Move left and down slightly past two bolts, Another easier runout above the 3rd bolt takes you straight up past a few more bolts to a roof. Face moves past a bolt is the route's crux, and good holds soon appear. Belay here or keep climbing right, to climb eventually up and right from the belay.
Move right, looking for a high bolt way up inside this A-Frame roof/chimney to your right. Clip bolt and move right. Step up to a small stance with dead tree and belay.
P5 5.10C
Move up and right from the belay to a crack. Soon, step back left and up into 5.10 corner and splitter. Belay above tree.
P6 5.10c
Follow thin-hand crack, becoming left-leaning ramp and corner.
p7 - 5.7 - Follow splitters and blocks up and left to the topout on the South Arete.
[ Revised P7 - Better Finish - Don't move left at the top of P6, but build a gear belay directly above, just below a solitary bolt. Move left at the bolt, into a shallow RFC/finger crack, which leads straight up to the top. ~20m 5.10-
Location
From the South Arete of the spire, head down and right (NE) along the base, eventually being forced to drop away from the foot of the wall to skirt some steeper and more broken terrain. cross the first gully, and begin at double cracks near a fir tree at the right end of a ledge. This is ~10mins of rock-shoe scrambling from the base of the S. Arete. Easy to leave packs and shoes hanging in a tree at the South Arete, the standard descent for this peak.
Photos
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