Avg: 3.6 from 30 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 7 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||9,539 total · 71/month|
|Shared By:||blakeherrington on Oct 30, 2009|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
Climb toward a massive roof and go left under roof clipping one bolt. Belay is bolted.
Roof has bolt on it. Pull roof through to the right via strange flares and campus moves. The crack above the roof has some grass and flares.
P3. 5.11- Amazing sustained finger crack to a roof/slot.
P4. 5.11+ Move left and down slightly past two bolts, Another easier runout above the 3rd bolt takes you straight up past a few more bolts to a roof. Face moves past a bolt is the route's crux, and good holds soon appear. Belay here or keep climbing right, to climb eventually up and right from the belay.
Move right, looking for a high bolt way up inside this A-Frame roof/chimney to your right. Clip bolt and move right. Step up to a small stance with dead tree and belay.
Move up and right from the belay to a crack. Soon, step back left and up into 5.10 corner and splitter. Belay above tree.
Follow thin-hand crack, becoming left-leaning ramp and corner.
p7 - 5.7 - Follow splitters and blocks up and left to the topout on the South Arete.
[ Revised P7 - Better Finish - Don't move left at the top of P6, but build a gear belay directly above, just below a solitary bolt. Move left at the bolt, into a shallow RFC/finger crack, which leads straight up to the top. ~20m 5.10-