Type: Trad, Alpine, 900 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,017 total · 68/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Oct 30, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

The Passenger is one of the best rock climbs in the Cascades.

p1 -5.10D
Climb toward a massive roof and go left under roof clipping one bolt. Belay is bolted.

P2. 5.11bish
Roof has bolt on it. Pull roof through to the right via strange flares and campus moves. The crack above the roof has some grass and flares.

P3. 5.11- Amazing sustained finger crack to a roof/slot.

P4. 5.11+ Move left and down slightly past two bolts, Another easier runout above the 3rd bolt takes you straight up past a few more bolts to a roof. Face moves past a bolt is the route's crux, and good holds soon appear. Belay here or keep climbing right, to climb eventually up and right from the belay.

Move right, looking for a high bolt way up inside this A-Frame roof/chimney to your right. Clip bolt and move right. Step up to a small stance with dead tree and belay.

P5 5.10C
Move up and right from the belay to a crack. Soon, step back left and up into 5.10 corner and splitter. Belay above tree.

P6 5.10c

Follow thin-hand crack, becoming left-leaning ramp and corner.

p7 - 5.7 - Follow splitters and blocks up and left to the topout on the South Arete.

[ Revised P7 - Better Finish - Don't move left at the top of P6, but build a gear belay directly above, just below a solitary bolt. Move left at the bolt, into a shallow RFC/finger crack, which leads straight up to the top. ~20m 5.10-

Location

From the South Arete of the spire, head down and right (NE) along the base, eventually being forced to drop away from the foot of the wall to skirt some steeper and more broken terrain. cross the first gully, and begin at double cracks near a fir tree at the right end of a ledge. This is ~10mins of rock-shoe scrambling from the base of the S. Arete. Easy to leave packs and shoes hanging in a tree at the South Arete, the standard descent for this peak.

Protection

Doubles from thin finger cams to #2 camlot. One #3 camalot. One set of nuts.

Photos